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Of course it is. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=azxx9sG4Gjw

Had some fun creating my panel for the floor as my first metal working project. This is actually my second (same) piece I made. The first one I shaped was from 22 gauge and seemed flimsy though I hadn’t dimple died it. It was all I could find easily and was anxious start. Then I was hooked up with a sheet of 18. After cutting and fitting I believe the original floor is 18 gauge also or very close to it. I forgot to take a picture of my new favorite and handy tool to make my patterns but I bought a HF 10 In. Contour Gauge. Cheap and helpful. Bearing race and press piece for my dimple die. I cut the hole first and centered everything up in the press the best I could. Maybe a hair to deep but I’m happy. I need to work on the welder set up. I thought I was getting decent penetration but after I welded some more this evening I didn’t get as good welds. Then I also tried from the bottom and the welder didn’t like it. I was out of time anyway, which was good. No need to push on and get frustrated, step back and assess. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

He's got a Z divining rod. I used to have one too, in my pants. Too much trouble now...

That's a loaded question. Let me phrase it another way. What circuits can only be powered when the ignition switch is on? The fuses with red only are powered with the key in ON. The fuses in green use the combo switch (headlight/parking light switch). The common fuse is for the cigarette lighter. The clock is on the same fuse as the dome lamp and map light. (I think the wiper park function is on that fuse, too.) So what could drain the battery? Bad voltage regulator Bad alternator Clock (even if it's not running) Dome light, map light, and glove box light (door not closed all of the way - Note: This only applies to the 240Z. The parking lights have to be on for the 260Z or 280Z glove box light to come on.) Aftermarket stereo Aftermarket alarm Aftermarket accessory like remote locks (The previous owner had that on my 260Z. I removed the remote lock and fixed the door lock properly.) Unknown cross-connection Short in the starting motor (unlikely but here for completeness) To help you with the diagnosis When did it start? How long does it take to drain the battery? Do you know how to use a voltmeter and ammeter? Do you own a test light?

Well sadly my ported E31 head was in an engine shop fire. Luckily my 3.1L was pretty far away from the flames. Well lots of elbow grease and 4 hours in my vapor blasting cabinet and it looks as good as new!. Now time to have it put back together.

Keep looking, at think you’ll find one at a better price. I have access to 4 yards near me. They all want $425-$475. Two are close and two are wide. After reading your thread I might just grab one for my war time stock like [emoji23]. Call this yard in LA. They have an 83 ZX transmission. All Japanese Auto Wrecking 323-581-0500 Good luck!

Another comment on a BaT auction which attempts to re-write history. Why do this? First of all, what is the point in decanting out the '240Z' variants from a timeline which includes the other S30-series Z/'270 Keisha' variants? Is this not - once again - an attempt to make the '240Z' (whatever that is...) some kind of KING? "Regular production chassis serial numbers"? The cars in question were 'Kojo Shisaku' and 'Seisan Shisaku' examples (by definition Prototypes rather than regular production cars), and we have discussed them at length on this forum in the past after Kats showed us the confidential factory documents which listed them. Out of those first fourteen 'Kojo Shisaku'(factory prototype) and 'Seisan Shisaku' (production prototype) cars - the first fourteen cars to be given a unique chassis prefix and body serial number combination - just three of them were 'HL270U' HLS30-prefixed cars. One was an 'H270U' HS30-prefixed car, Four were 'P270' PS30-prefixed and six were '270' S30-prefixed. So what is all this "#1, #2 and #3" stuff? It is nonsense, isn't it? Why is the history of these cars so consistently misreported and misrepresented by people who should (and do) know better?

I believe CGsheen is saying they put gaskets under the spray bar contact points to leave it in place but eliminate flow

I believe the 27mm RH thread nut is NLA. There were a few offered here on the site by members that had some machined up Yes on the gutter I think the others are probably right. A lot of damaged parts in that case EuroDat is an excellent source of information on Datsun transmissions especially. I would give his advice a lot of consideration!!