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Update on the progress. In Mig Welder stage. Tackling the rust. All the normal areas. Battery Tray , Cowl/Air Intake and related firewall. Floor Pans of course, Spare Tire Tub. Both wheel wells and back hatch shelf. Originally from Texas with some hail damage on the roof you couldn't see until in person. It's come a long way in the recent Pandemic months... multiple weekends of car time and not at kid sport events.

After looking mostly everywhere to find MY 73 under hood emission and inertia decals, I stroke out so I have decided to make my own! I based them from the ones I had on my hood before restoration so I have avoided all the misinformation that is out there about them. MY 73 is unfortunately the lesser loved year of the 240, still for me they are as good as the other years and deserve as much love as the previous years ? . Go find one, original, unmolested and good enough for a complete restoration ! Harder and harder to find!

Steve, Problem solved! I checked continuity and everything was fine. I opened up the hazard switch again and bent the contact tabs further out and that solved the issue. Thanks so much for your help again and hopefully everyone can learn from this.

Right. The slope of the taper (rate of change) may be different across the stations, but it's always a "slope" and not a step. Looking at the .095 vs .094 example above in a different way: If the needle is .095 and is in a .100 hole, you have 90.25% of the hole filled up (with needle) and you have 9.75% of the available area open to fuel flow. Changing the needle diameter to just .094, you have 88.36% of the hole filled which results in having 11.64% of the available area open for flow. So changing just one thousandth like that results in an approximate 2% increase in the area available for fuel flow.

A week or so my buddy Stefan asked me if i'm interested in a NOS multifunctional steering wheel switch for the Z. Don't ask me where he found it. I wasn't really planning on buying such an item, but who am i to turn down an offered NOS part? Especially when the part number matches with my car? So yesterday it arrived in my mailbox, complete with original bag and partnumber-label. Thanks Stefan for offering me this sweet item! More new parts arrived here and i will show them here tomorrow ?

Thanks for both posts' explanations, that makes total sense. So that means that in order for a brake booster to be bad - it would need to not be able to hold a vacuum with the pedal not pressed and me pumping the vacuum gauge pump?

Well most of that behavior is completely normal. The alternator output can (will) drop if the RPM's get too low. And if the alternator output drops far enough, the warning lights are supposed to come on. There are two things that concern me a little though, and that's why I was suggesting keeping an eye on things. 1) The alternator output might be dropping off at an RPM that's higher than normal which may be a sign that the alternator may be having some sort of internal problem. I don't know what the specs are, but on my car with an internally regulated alternator, my alternator output seems to be able to keep up easily at 700 RPM idle, even with the headlights and blower motor on. In other words, even with the headlights and blower motor on, I can let my RPMS drop to idle (700 RPM) and my warning lights don't come on. Might be a warning sign that yours do 2) The other thing that concerns me is the "latching" of either the VOLTS or BRAKE lights. Even if the alternator output does drop off at low RPM's, both those lights should go back out when you rev the engine. Every time. So if one or the other of those lights ever "latch" on, it might be another sign of impending doom for your current alternator. Makes me wonder if your brushes are worn to a nub and are making intermittent contact. Or your internal regulator may be failing. In my experience, things like this are warning signs that something is brewing. Might not be critical. Yet. But something's going on...