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Got the head attached to block with No.1 Piston and Cam positioned at TDC.

I picked up the gas tank from the acid dippers today, in addition to the rust it had a layer of Red Kote, so I took the easy expensive route. One thing about having your car or tank dipped, there is something about the process that turns lead solder to liquid, I don't know if it is the heat or the chemicals but I have noticed twice now a pool of hardened solder beneath a joint that had been smoothly soldered. You can see how rough the solder is after dipping, so make sure you save a bit of your tank sealer so you can apply it to the outside as well around those soldered joints. Also got the pedal box disassembled, cleaned and painted.

They're in the first few pages of the BF- Body chapter. They're a bit different for the later 280Z S30's, compared to 240Z's. What kind of camper will you be using? Wouldn't a tent be sufficient?

Thats what I did , I carried a Hagerty policy on the car the whole time I was doing the restoration, Once I was ready to put it on the road I got plates and insurance. I was living in Alberta at the time, and the car was from Alberta so I did not need a out of province inspection. But when I moved to BC I got a out of province inspection. It was quite simple and the staff at the garage were more interested in talking about the car than fretting over details. My car is fully stock so there were no modifcation issues. That said, I don't think that ICBC has much of a say in the inspection, only that the car has passed one. The inspection is for mechanical correctness and safety. In fact I still carry the Hagerty policy as well as the ICBC insurance, because the only answer I could get out of them to the question "what happens if the car is totalled in a accident" was a vague "you would get fair market value for the car".

The fact that #1 looks good and others are carboned up makes me think the problem is electrical. Probably somewhere in the cap, rotor, plug wires, plug wire connections. New plugs, resistance check on the plug wires, double check the plug wire connections and a good quality cap and rotor should clear it up. Jalex in Panama had a problem similar to this. #4 plug was always a little darker than the rest. He had good NGK plug wires, at the time. He replaced the plugs, and bought a Bosch cap and rotor. His #4 gremlin disappeared with those changes.

When I adjusted the bumper on my '72, I simply added a SS washer or two between the bumper and bracket. First, I straightened the bumper mounting tabs and bracket to what I thought seemed correct and best fitting of bumper and bracket. The holes on the quarter panel were sufficiently oversized as to not cause fitment issues to the best of my recollection. For my car, one side need the spacer washers, the other side was fine. Also, I am positive my bumper is not the original bumper and that a small rear end tap had occurred sometime in the past prior to my ownership...so, your mileage will vary.

Best to check with BC's MOT before you decide, here in Ontario they just label the car unfit until you finish the resto then you have it safetied to get your registration.

I was looking at the negative feedback for a company on ebay that sells returned items from other stores. The one review looked odd until I saw what the person had purchased.

this show's the lines

My apologies for stealing the post for a moment 72 body and block, everything else 71, Tokico springs, Illumina, R180 CLSD, 83 close ratio, 3.90 gears, Ztherapy SUs, BRE 15X7 Libre wheels and BRE front spoiler.

Congratulations on marriage!