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Hello, I currently have a 1972 Fairlady Z that have entertained the idea of selling it. The car has been in dry storage since the early 80's only having 29,000 kilometers on the car, I see the early Z market all over the map and I was looking for a honest answer on its value. I know it's no 432 but I believe it has to be one of the most original Fairlady Z's out there the gas tank , carbs and brake's need attention from sitting has great oil pressure alternator charges it runs great considering how long it really has seen the road. I am not familiar how the production number go but the firewall stamp read's S30-09435 Thanks Dwayne 734-395-3240 3dcustoms@gmail.com

That is an absolutely hilarious comment! Never heard brake fluid described in quite that fashion. Makes my want to go home and slather up my hands with it right now.

Hi all, The donor car build date is 6/76, Vin 308,212. The parts I bought off it are: Complete fender, with everything attached to it including bezel, headlight rims, and running light Right bumper shock Console, from radio back, between seats including ash tray, with attached sensors Complete turn signal assembly Both windshield wipers Shift knob Fuse box cover All for the fantastic price of $225.00. And I didn't even wear a mask! How cool was that? The door cards are in wonderful condition, he wanted $50 each. I did not need them, and I don't have the extra $ to get them "in case". Thanking Greg for all his assistance with this purchase, wise advice included. Jai

Test a small area with MEK or acetone. If it's a lacquer it might come right off. I think the tank is made of nylon (polyamide) which should be okay as long as you don't soak it in solvent. Found a nice reference chart, if you don't have either of those. Nylon 6 and 6/6 are similar. http://www.plasticsintl.com/plastics_chemical_resistence_chart.html

Finished rear brake line install. Now working on engine bay brake lines. Installed brake line manifold and fuel vent manifold. I threw in a before pic just for reference.

Interesting. Someone put a later model horn pad on the 240z wheel.

I drove the Z to work today in order to go to the Georgia Z Club meeting afterward. It was a great day to drive the car, too. Here are the S30s that showed up.

The rear deck lock is unique. You can't use any other lock there. The only thing that is portable between the deck lock and the rest of the car is the tumblers inside. Other than that, completely unique.

I would date 'S30-09435' as being around February/March/April 1972 production date. Looks like a good honest car to me. Hard to tell from the photos whether it is an S30-S Fairlady Z 'Standard' model or an S30 Fairlady Z-L 'Deluxe' model, although the non-trimmed 'Standard' bumpers might be a clue. It is also wearing the 'Deluxe' hubcaps so perhaps it is an example of a Standard model with a few extra option boxes ticked, or later Deluxe additions? If it has a 4-speed transmission it's probably a Standard model. This car might well be of interest to United Kingdom-based buyers. I will spread the word. There's also a Facebook group for USA-based Fairlady Z owners which would I am sure be interested in it. GLWS!

Very true. The kit I used has multiple sizes, but the removal process was not simple. A lot of small movements and careful positioning to ensure the tool did not break as well. Worth the investment for sure, but don't rush the removal. Take your time and save yourself a lot of headache. The kit I used minus a tool that was broken prior to me using it. I signed this out from my tool crib at work.

Yup. They come in different sizes for different taps. I've got a bunch of them, but have never had great success with them. Always seems that when I break a tap, it's a size for which I don't have an extractor, or for some other reason, it just won't work. Three flutes. Blades too big for the flutes... Whatever. The larger sizes work better than the small ones, and it's always easier to get a broken tap out of a hole if you were just chasing existing threads as opposed to cutting complete new ones in a fresh hole. Much of it comes down to the amount of force required to turn the remains and it takes a lot less force to clean paint out of threads than to cut them in the first place. Bottom line is if you can get an extractor to work, that's awesome as it's the easiest method. But don't walk away from this thread thinking they are the cure-all, end-all solution to all your busted tap ordeals in the future because I think you will be disappointed. There will still be plenty of opportunities for swearing and sweating and throwing things even with a complete set handy.

Told ya so! And it's about time!! I have the A-Frame design, but I don't think they even sell that one anymore. You have the H-Frame, right? I hope the fit and stability is better than the A-frame I got. I spent a bunch of time making modifications and improvements to mine before I considered it stable. And as for overloading the hydraulics, there is an overpressure relief built into the jack. I would assume that the rest of the frame was designed and built to some safety factor over what the jack can produce. Assume. Get yourself a face shield. There are times when it just gives me some emotional comfort when the pressure really gets up there. Now you need to start saving all those old bearings and bushings and anything else that might possibly be useful in the future to use as a drift or an anvil. Short stubs of PVC tubing, bolts of assorted length and diameter. Then you need a lathe to make the other sizes that you can't repurpose from anything else. Then you need a milling machine or two to make the things that you can't do on the lathe. It's a slippery slope...