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Site, the real issue was stopped up tank lines from the Red Coat sealer. The tank sender leak was incidental

My last update hopefully[emoji23]: I got the right gasket from napa auto parts and installed it when the tank was down and my dad and I installed it back. After the installation it leaked a little at first. After we let it sit overnight, the next morning I went out to see if it was still leaking and nothing was leaking anymore. I drove it around some more and still didn't leak. So now the z drives as it should thanks to you guys. Thanks for this long journey and staying here till the end helping me out and getting the z out again. [emoji173]️ Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I got contacted by some guys who is recording Sounds for a new videogame called The Crew 2. They really wanted a 240z. So that's what I did today. And I got paid for it : )

160/230 is in. I'll get some logs today hopefully.

Y'all gotta come up here and see some whales!

Later BSR...

I undertook this fuse box upgrade this weekend. I had ordered the fuse holders back when @Phil Z first posted this. Just now was motivated to do it. My fuse box had the typical melting of the parking light fuse. I installed an inline fuse pre-1980, and installed LEDs a few years ago to lower the current draw. My first step was to take photos of the existing wiring and also make a key to where each wire goes. Next I removed the fuse clips leaving a bare box, then repaired the hole from the melted fuse with JB Weld. Semi-ground down the JB Weld and coated it with black satin paint. Like Phil I used a dremel to cut slots for the fuse holders. I cut the first one too wide, so after that cut them slightly smaller than needed and filed them to the right width. I had some 6/32-inch machine screws in my stash, some 3/8" long and some 1/2" long, and they were the correct diameter. Drilled out the holes as needed and installed the fuse holders and screws. Nissan didn't leave any spare wire length, so I pried open the clamp holding the insulated part of the wire and cut off the old fuse holders to give me all the length I could get. To connect the source side of the fuse block where two wires were common, I tore apart an old plug and soldered those across the terminals. At the three common connectors the stock box has a screw terminal. To duplicate that I smashed an old duplex outlet and soldered the parts across the three terminals. Ugly but effective. I soldered the wires on, checked for continuity, and re-installed it in the car. So far everything works like it did before. As Phil said, the fuse box cover still fits. Thanks to Phil for coming up with this upgrade.

The '72 choke cable is definitely shorter by a few inches. I managed to get the '72 cable to work in my '70, but the cable was quite bent over where it left the choke linkages on the carbs. In fact it resulted in so much effort to pull the choke lever that I thought I would break the knob. Last year I ended up repairing my original cable by using the original sheath and making a new cable from .055 music wire, .055 stainless wire is also available. It works great now, here are a couple of links on the subject.