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I am lucky, I can walk away from that headache type work you're doing and jump in a tractor or on a mower. Drink a bunch of beer and get some good thinking done. Every now and again I'll get that "ah hah!" moment whilst I'm doing nothing.

My damn tube, I'll polish it if I want to !

If you start videoing your bits soak those crocodile fingertips in some Palmolive, Madge and use youtube, Richard, not photo****it. We would all benefit from your meticulous work. Sharing is proof you missed your calling, TEACHING! You would and are the best ever, you and Blue. I'm playing around now. Been working in the heat and a few beers is like intravenously shooting it straight in. Nothing intentional, you're my Andy and I'm Barney. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=GmFp0I8AZqw

Not Z? What? I'm not so sure the small block changes the handling much. It's another one of those things where when you do the numbers they can surprise you. The L6 is kind of heavy. The torque of a large V8 probably has a bigger effect. The question was power to money ratio so... The SBC is cheap and they make some high horsepower crate engines. Can't really pick a motor until you know what you want the car to do. If it's a show car then a nice LS or RB might work. Drifters like a big torquey engine to break the tires loose so aV* works there. Race cars might like a 6 cylinder that you can wind up. Don't forget the other parts like the transmission (stick or auto) , and the differential and suspension. More cost. You can just pick an engine alone and make it though.

Stupid is making a mistake and never realizing or learning from it.

Power to the stereo is taken from the blower motor harness, so if the blower motor don't work ofcourse the stereo won't. Heres we're I did wrong. Blower motor power cable (red) is now connected to the correct blue female. See pic before it was connected to another (pointing on it) blue female.

And here's a quick video of this pin retained prototype rig. I think I need a better video camera:

Hi Kats, Here's another concept for the lug nuts. I don't think this is what they did (I think they forged it into place), but if you really want to completely hide the retaining feature to confuse your competition, here's one way I came up with to do that. Again, since this is proof of concept only, I took shortcuts. Most noticeably, I did not make a tapered ring this time, but instead just used a simple cylindrical collar as it was much easier and does not affect the viability of the test. I cut a groove on the inside of the collar and drilled two holes through the "nut" body: I then pressed two small pins into the body: I pressed the pins flush with the outside diameter of the body: The lengths of the pins are such that when pressed flush with the outside, they protrude into the inner portion of the body: I made a mandrel a few thousandths smaller than the ID of the nut body and tapered it on the end. I used a portion of an old bolt because it has a quality heat treat of at least grade 8.8: While the pins are flush with the outside, slip the collar over the body, put the mandrel in place, and press the mandrel into the part on the arbor press. When you do this, it forces the two small pins outward and they catch the groove in the collar: Thread the ID and you've got a retained collar with no externally visible retaining feature: I still think they forged it, but it was nice to see this more elegant method work.

Whew... I was wondering what the plan was. ?

How many beers does it take to mow 15 acres?