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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/24/2016 in all areas
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Hey Guys! First and foremost a little disclaimer: I own my little Z since April and finally am going to post about her here!:) Since May I posted some posts in my blog already. The blog is and will be the priority from where I most of the time simply copy and paste my posts onto here, so the pictures are hosted on the blog and linked onto here!:) I will however slightly edit stuff for the forum, so everything makes sense!;) To not flood the thread right in the beginning I will delay my post with one or two days in between with the write ups that already accumulated on the blog as of now!:) To whoever prefers to read on the blog itself, or is too curious right from the beginning and wants to read everything that's available right from the get go, there you go: Datsun 240Z 1972 Restomod First a short introduction. I’m a Director of Photographer to be, living in the South of Germany, around Stuttgart right next to Zuffenhausen, for you 911 guys out there!:) 23 (24 now ) years old at the time and quite the car and motorcycle nut. Mostly vintage though! I restored and modified a Honda CB 550F from 1976 to a Café Racer/Brat Style within the last two years, after I’ve owned two Yamaha R6 before, which are only fun at the racetrack, not on public roads. Crashed them both. Here’s a picture of my Honda: As you can read in the next post I recently purchased my next project, a 1972 Datsun 240Z which progress I will post on this blog (forum!:) ) for the next months and year(s) to come! My new to me lady: After months searching for the perfect base I finally found my dream car! Even though I searched throughout Europe and started to think about importing one from the US myself, I found her just 200km away near Munich. Lucky me! After quite the cold ride on my 1976 Honda CB 550 Café Racer one and a half months (now six!) ago I arrived at the old barn where she sat for quite some time already. I liked her, a deal was made and am ‘now’ the proud owner of my own Fairlady! I have to excuse the poor quality of the pictures, the future will bring better ones! She’s a California import and has been imported in 2006, never registered in Germany however. Structurally in great shape, no prior rust repairs and almost no rust. Up until now I only found a small hole in the drivers side door, a hole under the windshield and the battery tray has a tiny area under a square centimetre. I will however remove the sheet metal under the hatch to be thorough! Also mechanically sound, the matching numbers L24 runs great as well as the 4 speed manual transmission. The suspension components are shot, as one would expect. As well as every single piece of rubber and pretty much the whole interior which was in awful beige and has been covered with a blue bathroom rug as it seemed some time ago:D. Bringing her home: Exactly one week later my parents joined me to get her back to my garage. Had to wash her thoroughly first however! And sadly the battery was shot after the ride home on the trailer, so we had to push her into her new home. Previous owner and me That's it for tonight (in Germany), will post the next chapter tomorrow evening, if the demand is not higher!:P All the best to you guys! Fabian2 points
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1 pointSome may be interested in a bit of data that I collected yesterday. Ran my Z on the dyno all day, testing various jetting and playing with timing (first with E12-80 and then with 123ignition dizzy). The goals of this project was to learn, as it was my first engine build, try different things even if they go against "conventional wisdom", and enjoy playing in the sandbox that is Z-cars. Ran it on the Dynapack at Works Motorsports, where I used to work (no pun intended). Steve aka Datsuncrush, the owner of my previous 260Z, came by for support and videography! Basic engine specs are: flat-top L28 (0.5mm over), shaved and ported P90, Isky L6 grind cam (.540"/270*), 45DCOE with ported and matched manifold, and MSA 6-1 header with a nice and quiet 2.5" exhaust (resonator and Walker Quiet-Flow muffler) so I can hear those Webers sing. However, I'd like to think the devil is in the detail! Using the OEM head gasket, compression is 11:1. Piston-to-head clearance is .017" (less than 0.5mm!), that's with .021" piston pop-out from the deck. Because of the excellent quench and combustion chamber of the P90, it runs on CA 91 pump gas with 34* of advance all-in! The cam wipe pattern is cheated over to the pivot edge of the rockers. The head was ported by Rebello along with the port-matched and pinned intake. Running Supertech undercut intake valves and OEM L28 non-turbo head bolts on Dave's recommendation. Final jetting was 135/F11/110 (main/tube/air) but it leaves a lot to be desired. The F11 tube is a particularly poor performer in sidedrafts and causes dramatic lean-rich-lean swings (+- 2.5 AFR!) at WOT. I did my best to reduce that tendency by limiting the amount of air drawn into the tube (hence the 110 air jet). Unfortunately, I did not have other tubes on hand to play with. Venturis are 36mm. I plan to correct the mixture and play with cam timing another day but the end result is a good baseline to start from! The yellow line is with stainless steel mesh filters and red is no filter. They were worth ~6hp peak and 1-3lb-ft across the RPM band. And of course, the required video: Overall, I'm very happy with the results and the Z pulls like hell!
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1 pointThanks guys I will go hybrid Z for the info but I will type up the process of the swap in my Z Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile1 point -
1 pointRear seat brackets made and both front and rear brackets welded in. Loosely fitted in place to give you an idea of how they will look. Front and rear brackets close up comparison. Holes drilled for welding. Decided this would be a good time to install the tie in plate underneath the floors close to the tunnel side. Holes drilled in the floors. Painted the flanges and area of the floors with weldable rust preventative primer. Also sprayed the seat brackets and tie in plates with POR15 degreaser and prep and ready to prepare it for paint. Seat brackets welded in. Seats test fitted. Passenger seat slightly touches the ebrake. however once somebody is seated, the cushion on the side collapses in a way to distance itself away from the ebrake. Tie in plates welded in. Me wishing my car was done and driving, hehe. Thats all for now. Bout time I actually start working on the parts I sandblasted.
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1 pointSorry its not a Z, but you get the idea... Defintely not as good as a rotisserie, but it worked! Another tool in the bag so to speak. Maybe I'll finish this damn thing this winter...
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1 pointPart 2 of picture mania! Alright, pictures below are where I left off recently last weekend. Sandblasted some parts that go to the interior for the seat belt mechanism and other random parts. Finally got the floors permanently welded in. The reason the floors look so nasty is because I sprayed it with POR15 Degreaser and Prep and Ready. This also helps it from rusting prematurely before I actually paint it. Currently working on getting the seat brackets and the parts I sandblasted prepped for installation. STAY TUNED!
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Just received my copy of "Datsun 240Z, Engineering Development. The Journey from Concept to Reality" by Hitoshi Uemura. In chapter six he this to say about vapor lock issues. Nice to know that the hot start issue ended with fuel injection. "After the 73 model year started to be sold, Nissan Motor Corporation, U.S.A. reported complaints that when the steering wheel was turned rapidly after driving in extremely hot regions, engine problems developed, and, at worst, the engine would just stop. They also reported that once the engine stopped, the customer had to wait in the car, without air conditioning and under the blazing sun, for at least 30 minutes until the engine cooled and could be restarted, which naturally increased complaints. We hurriedly conducted a test on the chassis dynamometer to reproduce the symptoms. After the vehicle had been run at 62 mph (100 km) continuously in 104`f (40C) temperature, it was taken out to the test course and the wheel turned rapidly. This confirmed that the engine problem occurred and at worst the engine stalled. The cause of the problem was vapor lock, in which gasoline vaporizes in the fuel lines and carburetor because of the high temperature in the engine bay. Lacking liquid fuel, the engine stops running. Executive Director Ryoichi Nakagawa, the chief of the engine departments, gave us a pep talk, saying, "In a car, the worst case that can happen with this defect is the engine stalling, but if this happens on a plane, it crashes." Although the engine design departments also tackled countermeasures, satisfactory results were not obtained, and the manager Harada of the Third Design Department asked us to cooperate in coming up with countermeasures for the vehicle itself. As a temporary measure, a heat shield plate was placed between the exhaust system and the carburater, glass fiber was wrapped around the fuel system pipe, and louvers were cut in the engine hood to vent heat. But this was not enough. Then, as a last resort, a powerful sirocco fan, which began to turn when the temperature in the engine room rose above a given temperature, was installed in the engine room to pump out the heat. This almost solved the problem, but it was never perfect, because the fan would turn for a while or sometimes started turning suddenly even after the engine was turned off, surprising drivers. Assistant Department Manager Shidei, who was the chief engineer at this time, visited America to persuade Nissan Motor Corporation U.S.A. to deal with the problem using this tentative measure for a while until a proper countermeasure could be taken. I can't imagine that would have been an easy task for him. One year later, we solved the problem properly by abolishing the carburetor and adopting the L28 engine with electronic fuel injection."1 point
