Leaderboard

took the Z out, odd rough idle, that was new, start down the street, can't hold idle stalls out finally get it started and nurse it home. Pull the plugs super carbon fouled, cleaned them, try starting again very hard to start, would not idle then dies. fuel pressure check, 36 psi during cranking, so at least the FPR and fuel supply/returns are providing the correct static pressure. Spark looks good and strong. thinking it maybe a stuck open cold start, I remove it to see if it fires (should not its hot) it does not but the car runs fine with a massive air leak at the cold start hole. plug it up and the engine dies. So clearly its running rich. The only other diagnostic I run is the water temp sender. It test ok about 360ohms (hot engine). Decide to cut to the chase, swap in a spare ECU, starts right up. runs fine. So the plan is to open the old one up and look for any obvious looking failed parts. I sure am glad I had that spare ECU...

My BRE original style one has the raised area for an emblem. Got it from BRE2.net

Maybe just a little above 300 Ohms at 175F. I'm seeing 325ish. Keep in mind though that there is a pretty wide tolerance band allowed for those sensors though. The FSM says it should be between 290 and 360 Ohms at 176F and the center of that range is 325. Essentially they're saying "325 Ohms +/- 11%".

Yes, just pull the radiator out and take it to a radiator shop. Normal maintenance and repair. Don't butcher up your lovely car with a replacement 3-row with a shroud. Or, JB Weld? What on earth are you thinking?

For our American Z-car friends, you have no idea how much more expensive it is to have a 'car habit' when you live outside of the USA. We never get access to those 'free shipping' specials that those of you who live inside the USA enjoy and we get absolutely killed by FedEx and UPS brokerage fees when parts come across the border. Add to this customs duties and local sales taxes and -- here in Canada, anyway -- you can pretty much take any advertised price for a part from a USA vendor and add over 50% to figure out what the delivered cost will be. As an example, the premium that I paid over vendor's list price for a set of Wesco seat belts was 68%. And then there's the currency exchange. But that's another story.

That is correct, you're just pushing the air out and if the end of the tube is in the fluid no air should get sucked back in. Bubbles that don't make it all the way out could get sucked back though. So clear tube is advised so that you can see the bubbles. Another consideration is to have the front end of the car lifted so that the bubbles will be up by the bleed port. Be the bubble.

Wow! I like it! Who?

I painted mine with the engine in. I did't want to remove a perfectly running engine just to clean it up. Mine is more of a driver than a show car and since it is the engine bay and prone to future grease, oil and scratches, I felt like it did not have to be perfect but be better than the original factory finish. Yours sounds like it is already at a good starting point. Instead of a spray gun, I went to a automotive paint store and and had them mix my paint code (#240) in Acrylic and put it in a couple of Aerosol Spray cans. Much easier than getting a spray gun in there IMO. I could do the hard to reach spots like the battery tray area. You just have to be careful where the nozzle is aiming. Then I worked on one side at a time, cleaning, removing parts, and masking anything left Like AC hoses, wiring harness, etc. with masking tape and Paper shop towels. The trick with keeping it cleanable and shiny is to clear coat. It had to be compatible with the enamel. Got that at an Automotive store. The firewall was the hardest with the brake lines still attached. That is why I did one side at a time. Overall, I'm happy with the results considering nothing major had to pulled. As a bonus, I even painted the visible parts of the engine block with ford blue using the same method, I keep an extra can of paint since there is always something to do under the hood and I can retouch or re-do something if needed. I have posted before and after pictures on the AFM boot thread if you haven't seen them yet.

Unfortunately, as I predicted, the reserve was not met. I believe part of the problem is there have been quite a few early Z cars put for auction on eBay as of late. It seems the supply of modified cars are plentiful, while most discriminating buyers are looking for something more stock. My opinion is that most buyers who are willing to spend in the neighborhood 20K or more for a modified mint 240Z would be looking for a vehicle with a Robello Stroker or RB26DETT motor. Also, the more personalized the modifications, the smaller the pool of serious buyers. That said, I would suggest posting a car of this caliber on Hemmings Motor News or Collector Car Trader Online so it targets a more selective audience. Putting the car up for auction on a website like eBay where I can also purchase a 12-pack of tube socks is a disservice to a fine car.

Alright! All done. How's this?

I had the problem with my son's Ford Taurus. Yes, I know it's not a Z, but... It turns out the Taurus has a really crappy build of speedo, and as the mechanism wears, the spinning magnets start to contact the copper cup very lightly, causing the jumping, but only at certain speeds. The solution in his case was to replace the speedometer. However, because I'm a hopeless gearhead who hates substituting junkyard parts that are worn exactly the same as the part I'm replacing, I disassembled his speedo, ground a tiny bit off of the copper cup where it was making contact, and reassembled. Problem solved.