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I pickled the welds today and tried the brackets on my car. Here are the brackets all cleaned up and on the car. I have fibreglas bumpers so its not a 100% guarantee, but with all the measurements I have from people I'm confident they will fit the original bumpers. All the critical distances are within 1 or 2mm and with the slotted holes there is a tolerance of about 15mm.

Very slick! Can you make them for the early Z's now? Site, oh yeah it works well.

You should just block the yellow hose path. The yellow hose would allow the pump to pull too much coolant from the back of the head, and less through the radiator. Causes overheating. Your carb manifold should have a thermostat anyway. There was just whole discussion about it with jxq. They're described in the Fuel Modifications book in Downloads.

Huh? Who said that?

Captain, I'm over here!

I think it's because everyone all wants the same small set of difficult to find parts. Everyone wants five speeds, wood(ish) steering wheels, straight early bumpers, and SU carbs. Nobody wants four speeds, another squishy steering wheel, another set of ripped up seats, or a space saver spare. Sure there's always the little stuff that people are looking for, but it'll take a long time to make back $1500 with the little stuff.

That's gonna make you go blind, you know.

i hear ya - i need ibuprofin from changing plugs! take care of the back, it sneaks up on you if abused. no fun!

Thanks, I may have found 1 so fingers crossed. But let me know if you do change your mind. As I haven't fully tested all mine and hopefully they can be repaired if needed.

I'd take the fronts if you're selling them as complete sets. Greg and I could work out the details. Thanks Chas, they look great and you made them. Winners all around.

Thanks for the posts guys! Was starting to think I was out of luck with this. There's a few reasons I want a removable key: 1) Added security to prevent someone starting the car without the key to the battery in as well as a key to the ignition. 2) Car is still a work in progress and I always like to disconnect the battery when working on anything to prevent fire, zapping myself, blowing fuses, etc. 3) Regardless of how the car is, I always disconnect the battery when I'm not running it just in case... you never know when something might have a bad ground and spark. Adding a switch with a key lets me do this without popping the hood and removing the battery cable every time I run the car. 4) Prevent any potential battery drain when not running or if it's been sitting for a while (shouldn't be a problem, but I like to be safe) 5) I actually already have the switch with removable key that I got with some parts a while back and the idea has always appealed to me so I want to put it to use. If anything else, knowing that it takes an extra key to make the car run puts my mind at ease and won't have me worried that someone is going to steal it. Losing the key doesn't worry me too much. I could always hide an extra one away somewhere discretely in the car. It would be the same as worrying about losing my normal keys. The wire gauge was my main concern and if I should go about cutting power straight to the negative end of the battery like I originally intended to or if I should go about it another way. I was thinking that I would have to use the same gauge as the battery cable but thought I would ask anyway. The last thing I need is to start a fire or melt any wires.

Uggghhh. No thanks. I plan to do some sort of disc upgrade on my race car. It's not that the disc setup is better, but keeping the drums adjusted properly during an endurance race is a pain in the arse. I'd much rather worry about other things during a race.

So here it is listed on ebay, wish me luck,http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-Series-/201565818749?forcerrptr=true&hash=item2eee424f7d:g:HggAAOSwYmZXGAK5&item=201565818749

This evening we finished the first set of brackets. Still need to pickle the welds and test fit everything to make sure everything fits as it should. Here is a photo of the brackets. Still waiting for bolts and nuts I ordered a week ago. M10 with a 1.25 pitch doesn't seem to be that common. Especially in grade 10.9. I ended up ordering 8.8. Tomorrow Ill fit the brackets and make step by step photo's. For now I'm just going to crash on the lounge and have a beer.

An appreciating classic priced below Hagerty price guide, this 1972 Datsun 240Z is considered the best of the model years. With a 10/71 production date, the car has a vertical rear window defroster without the deck lid vents. It has been in the possession of the current owner for 5 years. This original matching numbers car (orange #918) has been meticulously maintained by its four previous owners and retains the period look of a classic Zcar and considered an excellent driver. Service records from the three previous owners dates back to the late 70’s. It was resprayed in 1986 in the original color. The 2.4 L engine is original to the car with 123,505 actual miles. A 5-speed gear box was added by a previous owner and documented in the records. the car drives and pulls through the gears as it should. The car does not drip any oil or fluids and everything is tight. The engine is clean, but has not been pulled by the current owner to be completely detailed. The paint has some small chips on the front edge of the hood, a blemish from the removal of body-side molding on the passenger-side door and small glue mark from side molding on the passenger-side quarter panel. The imperfections are noted in the photographs. The car is rust-free and accident free. The car has modest upgrades to improve comfort and drivability that were installed by the current and previous owners which include: updated air conditioning system, 3-row aluminum radiator, Mazda Miata seats, 4-piston calipers and electronic ignition. All of the original equipment (seats and radiator) have been retained for original value. All the rubber window gaskets are new. Chrome is excellent. It comes with the original owner’s warranty card, owners manual and tool kit. The original radio was replaced by a previous owner. The vehicle is currently garaged in Virginia Beach, VA, after arriving at a Miami, FL Datsun Dealership and spending 39 years in Florida. Since acquired in 2011 the current owner has added/replaced the following: Fuel system: SU carburetors rebuilt byTidewater Z Auto Service Fuel tank cleaned/coated by Tidewater Z Pertronix electronic ignition NGK plugs K&N air filter Valve adjustment/valve cover gasket by Tidewater Brakes: - Upgraded 4-piston front brake calipers (Toyota 4x4)/ceramic pads - New rear brake cylinders/shoes Other: Clutch slave cylinder Upgraded wiring harness- headlight/parking light Glove box All the rubber/ weather stripping has been replaced Purchased/not installed: BRE front spoiler Motorsport Front air dam 240z alternator upgrade adapter STAGG Struts and Vogtland lowering springs kit Extra weather strip kit NOS Rear bumper rubber trim (scratch on right rear-got it treat) Serious inquiries only - contact owner by e-mail for telephone number and additional photos ASKING PRICE $26,000.00