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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/09/2015 in Posts
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Your Schneider cam comes with a "cam card" that shows the valves clearance recommendations. FWIW2 points
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2 pointsI MIG'd them closed today. I had already removed all the rust by blasting it yesterday. It was hard finding good metal. It kept blowing through which wasn't a surprise. I finally got it and the results are good enough for my purposes.
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1 pointA broken valve on my race car led to the need for a new motor. Fortunately Z Register member Andy had an F54 L28 block spare. My head that had a fair bit of work was repairable. Hope the photos are of interest.
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1 pointSorry, Jai. I can't remember if I saw a sticker when I had it out. If you do take it out, be sure to disconnect the battery first.1 point -
1 pointNo it isn't. I know cuz "cuz" isn't a word in any language. Anyway, it's your time to waste. There is a chapter in the FSM called "Engine Removal" that covers everything you need to know.1 point
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1 pointStep #1 - get off of the LGLS770 and communicate normally. Tapatalk won't cut it.1 point
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1 pointMine has an A11-600-000, built in 9/'76. I've read that if it has the green sticker it'll swap out, not for sure on that though just from reading when i was having problems a few years ago.1 point
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Found this on a Japan site: scroll down for the table https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.oppama-garage.jp/nissan_model_fairladyz_1.html&prev=search1 point -
1 pointSpotted you on Instagram. https://instagram.com/p/90GgMGw_2o/ PMG1 point -
1 pointI wonder if raising the idle speed slightly would help. The rich oily fuel air blend might be too much for a cold engine. As I understand things, on the dual pickup ignition systems there are two things that keep the idle speed up when the engine is cold - the AAR and the second pickup. The AAR stays open for just a few minutes, but the second ignition system keeps the timing advanced until the engine warms up. Which could take about 20 minutes. Advanced timing increases engine RPM. Anyway, it might be worthwhile to increase idle RPM a couple hundred RPM. Turn the screw circled counterclockwise. You can actually do it by hand some times. Stole a picture from this link, post #4 - http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/37021-no-idle-screw/
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1 pointI've got a '77 too, great cars. This guy has a '77 and he's done everything imaginable to his. Took great pictures and explains things even my dumb arse can figure out. Here's the page, http://atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html1 point
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1 pointCongrats Richi. A '77 280z was my first classic Z car as well. From the single picture you posted the car looks to be in good shape. When you have a free minute post up in the Introductions section and tell us more about your Z and yourself. Regarding ideas, what are your plans for the car? There are tons of options and directions to go. A lot of people including myself have build threads so I would encourage you to view them as I am sure they will give you some ideas.1 point
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1 pointI've used this stuff for a decade and it works great on all my cars. It's a wonderful wax that can be put on in direct sunlight, without leaving swirls. It cleans up old, bad wax jobs. Brightens up old paint jobs (did great in my 88 t-bird that looked like crap and this brought it back). This stuff also works as a great tool to take off small marks, stains and surface scratches left from other paint sources, also as a good chrome and window shine/rain x type product. Check out any source only to get it. I usually pay $20 for 2 bottles that last me a long time. I don't sell this stuff, nor do I work for them, but I figured I would put this here to help anyone looking for something to help with their clean ups.
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