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I know the bling factor is hard to resist, but getting these aftermarket systems balanced is going to be a challenge. After all its brakes. First priority is stopping the car safely. I was tempted, but ended up settling for the original setup with R4-S porterfield pads and shoes. Man what a difference they make.

I'd stick with the stock brakes and go with better pads and shoes. It's a lot of time, money and effort spent for something that is essentially for appearance. I just installed a 4-wheel kit and wasn't impressed with how it gets installed. It was a challenge to get the parking brake to connect but I got it. The instructions also have you installing the rear calipers up side down and thus requires you to remove them and flip them upright to bleed. What a PITA! Installing the rear bracket can be a real PITA too since you have to remove the brake backing plate which might require removing the rear stub axles. But once you get it done you'll get to buy and install your new 15" or larger wheels/tires. Years ago I put a Modern Motorsport 4-wheel kit on my 1974 260Z turbo. Everything on the car was taken apart and rebuilt so it really wasn't any extra work to install the disc kit. I was happy with the MM kit. Good quality and design. But looking back I should have just gone stock but changed the pads/shoes. If you have an unlimited budget then go for it. Otherwise, the 4-wheel disc kit should be one of the last "upgrades". Chuck

I'm sure you don't get too much frost on the windshield in Panama, but the vents might be handy for removing condensation from the inside surface of the glass if that's ever an issue for you. Curious that they were removed. Dennis

The race guys say that the best way to stiffen up a Z body is with a roll cage. You might consider that if you're just looking for resurrection and not restoration. Use the cage as the central structure, like a tube frame. Or just build a hybrid tube frame/monocoque chassis.

These engines will actually run really well with a rich mixture. So the new tune and clean that was done might still give a great running motor, but still give dirty plugs. (Edit - meant to say that a bad pump and rich running may not be related.) Plus, mailbox trips tend to not warm the engine up completely. Not a criticism, just a reality. Anyway, it turns out the plugs are still from when it was running poorly. I've kind of ignored the odd details and focused on the engine dying. That's the biggy. You can ramble around the country-side with a lean condition causing poor throttle response, or a rich condition causing watery eyes from the gassy smell, but engine dying tops them both. As many of us know, these engines will run very poorly for a long time, without dying. Engine dying and not restarting is unusual. Too bad about the tachometer. It's a good diagnostic tool, but they do go bad. I have a 78 tach in my 76. My 76 tachometer started hanging up when it got warm. I think that you're right about the EFI glitch causing the short-term stumbling while warming up. The AAR keeps RPM up for a short time when cold and if it closes a bit early there won't be enough air for the engine's temperature for it to run well. I wouldn't worry about it now, as part of the big problem. If it's consistent, you can just live with it while trying to figure out the dying issue.

I like the wider sidewalls too. I think it just looks more period correct and they tend to ride better too

I took my tank to a local radiator shop to have it acid treated and sealed for about $100. Havent had any issues with it.

Try this link: http://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128030/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1446502999&sr=8-1&keywords=how+to+rebuild+your+nissan+ohc

Mark, Thank you for your suggestion, I will do that. Altho, as to keeping the RPM's up around 3000, I can't do that as my tach does not work. I will have to just wing it. Great for the building of confidence. I do not plan on leaving home tho until I have my tow available once more. Just in case. Jai

Here is a old race Z that I have purchased. Raced by Loren St. Lawrence in mainly SCCA C-Production, ICSCC C Improved Production, and SCCA Trans-Am. It also had one race in IMSA GTU. Raced with VIP's restaurant livery. It also raced against Jim Fitzgerald, Paul Newman, Don Kearney, Joel Anderson, and Frank Leary in the 1978 season all the way to the Road Atlanta run-offs. Wore numbers #39, #33, #39. Goal is to restore it to original state and livery, one day to race at the Monterey Historics. If anyone has any information on either driver or the car - I'd really appreciate the guidance! Steve Epperly @ ZTherapy, as well as Loren's wife, have confirmed that this is indeed the car (based off parts, pics and a plethora of other info). Logbooks missing due to a mishap between owners in the past. I believe they are with Ed Humphrey, who I am trying to locate and understand is now in AZ somewhere. I've researched through the archives and found some good info, but no links to the 33-373 (or 33-378, hard to make out) roll bar number / log book number. I'll be getting a package from the SF Region Archivist today with some race results. I've found pretty much everything online. Laguna Seca SCCA C-Production - 1978 Road Atlanta SCCA National Championships - 1978 Today.