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Took her out for a spin today and got a few pics.

This has been covered before in the archives, but I thought I'd post a subject title that will show up easily on searches. If you are looking for an OEM replacement pump for the W/Washer pump that fits perfectly on Z cars, order a Trico 11-601. These fit absolutely perfect in the rubber grommet. Later models may have to change out the connectors but that's no big deal.

Hi all, I've just received my 1973 240z! The previous owner towed it out from MO for me along with piles and piles of parts. We went over it together and it's in better shape than I expected (it was a Craigslist transaction over the phone between MO and NJ). I'm sure that I'll start finding nasty surprises once I start into it, but for now I'm basking in the glory of having a Z in my garage.

There's no way a digital HF caliper is going to cut it. The resolution is only a half thousandth, and the accuracy (and that's advertised accuracy) is one thousandth. It's good enough to toss in your tool bag to take to the junkyard and tell the difference between a .68 wide rotor and a .72 wide rotor. Not nearly good enough to take measurements off the needle stations however. A couple years ago, I measured some (what I believe are) N-27 needles. They came out of a pair of round top carbs I bought. I didn't own them from new and I have no idea how many other hands had been into them messing around with things. I may have been the first person in there, or the tenth. The needles may be OEM stock, or may have been replaced and changed many times. And unfortunately the numbers on the side of the needles is no longer readable. What I can tell you is that the carbs appeared to be unmolested and the needles are N-somethings printed in black ink (not stamped into the brass). I can also tell you that the car I had the carbs installed on ran great with those needles. Not too rich, not too lean. The carbs worked great. Bottom line is that I believe, but cannot guarantee, that they are N-27 needles. Lastly, I have a good eye, a steady hand, and made these measurements with a quality micrometer. I'm not infallible however, so would I would claim accuracy only to maybe plus/minus maybe two tenths. So with multiple qualifiers and caveats, here are my numbers:

She's running really good. I still have a few little bugs to work out.

Back in L land!!!!

Siteunseen, I was in Northern tool the other day and they had a lot of blast media. The had crushed glass no free silica for like $11 for 40 or 50 lbs. Would cut a little faster than beads but not quite as smooth. They also had "Black Diamond" which I believe is coal slag.

Maybe Jalex from Panama has too much zinc in his engine causing the "shaking, back and forth"? It has the Zinc Shakes.

So many mistakes and misconceptions in articles like this that they have become the norm. However, this part in particular jumps out as being particularly ill-advised: Yutaka Katayama's input on the creation of the S30-series Z is often overstated, but here is a writer asserting that Katayama had "...near total control over the project..." This is absolute nonsense. Where do people get this stuff from?

I revised my grill again today. Spent most of the afternoon making new vertical bars so I copuld extend the grill all the way down to the airdam. It won't work with my bumper brackets in the present situation, but Im planning to move then out to the 240Z position. To add the extra too "long" bars I needed to remove the top bar from the little grill under the 280Z bumper. Second was to try and repair the old top bar from the 240Z grill. Someone drilled extra holes in it and it was bent up a bit. I heated it red hot to straighten it and flatten the indentations for the vertical bars. Here are the "custom" parts I made to extend the grill. Here are some pics of the grill and a trial fit in the car. Its held in place with some wire. The two centre vertical bars will attach to the frame mounting where the old 280Z grill under the bumper mounted.

If the LED headlight is designed for the common wire to be negative, you'll need to do a relay conversion to get them to work.