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I can smell the finish line! Purchased all my fluids New fuel pressure gauge Picked up these bad boys! Installed the coil, I was happy that I was able to use the factory bracket with a little modification. Now I just need to wire up the 6AL and button up a few minor things and I should be running this weekend!!!! Wish me luck!

A while ago I made a couple wooden shift knobs (http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/44856-making-a-wooden-shift-knob/) and while I think they turned out pretty well, I've always knew there was some room for improvement. They were "close" to the original design, but just different enough to bug me. So with that in mind, I set out to make couple more with the intent to see how close I could reproduce the original knob. After a completely unprofitable and unreasonable amount of time, effort, trial and error, and raw materials, this is what I've got. The knob I made from scratch is on the left and the original Datsun knob is on the right. Only catch is that since the shift map from the factory knob was crazed and cracked into multiple pieces, the shift maps in both knobs are reproduction pieces that I made: Here's a side view. Note that my base is real metal instead of metalized plastic: I was on a roll, so I also made another knob to accepy my red 5-speed emblem as well. Here's the happy family: I'm still working out some of the bugs, but I'm pretty happy so far. Under magnification, I can still see some remnants of the damage from the original shift map that I used as a pattern, but I'd challenge the casual viewer to discern the difference between mine and an original factory knob in excellent condition. I don't have an older style 5-speed knob, but if I had one to use as a guide (hint hint), I could probably go through the same process with it as well.

Bob Bondurant writes: http://www.bondurant.com/pit-row/news/farewell-mr-k-my-friend

http://www.hagerty.com/Articles-Videos/Articles/2015/02/25/Yutaka-Katayama?utm_source=ExactTarget&utm_medium=email&utm_term=&utm_content=&utm_campaign=Hagerty%20Weekly%20News%202-25-2015 It's a proud moment.

I just realized that MSA is selling replacement interior panels (perhaps they've been selling them for a while, but I never noticed). They're pricey, but I was wondering if anyone had ordered some and could comment on the quality of the parts? Also, if someone has ordered multiple panels, how consistent is the colour? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic08j08/40-3634 http://www.thezstore.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TZS&Product_Code=40-3748 http://www.thezstore.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TZS&Product_Code=40-3507 http://www.thezstore.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TZS&Product_Code=40-3508

It would be nice to see a tribute car. 50th anniversary of his S30 in 4 years.... fingers crossed.

Thanks guys. I'm no woodworker, but I'm doing my best! The question about stain has an interesting answer... I'm still of the opinion that the original knobs may have been impregnated with a resin of some sort. I've cross-sectioned an original knob to get a good look at un-weathered grain in the middle, and on the inside, the grain and rays are clearly visible. There are no visible air cavities however. Seems completely and totally solid. Also, it's much harder than the rock maple that I'm working with, and when machining a factory knob, I get the distinct odor that you get when you machine most plastics. Thirdly, it's of a significantly higher density than the maple I'm working with. So... With all that in mind, what did I do? Well, I tried to impregnate the wood with resin, of course! I mixed up a concoction of polyurethane sealer and a custom wood stain blend as an attempt to replicate the factory coloring. Then I dunked the wood portion into a small jar and put the whole thing under vacuum to draw air out of the knob. That way, once returned to atmospheric pressure, it would draw the colored polyurethane into the wood to replace the air that was sucked out under vacuum. Poly and stain concoction mixed in small jar: Under vacuum inside my chamber drawing some of the air out of the wood. Bubbles out, poly in: So the answer to the question is that there is some finishing done to the knobs, but maybe not the kind of finish you were imagining?

That's good. They make some replacement panels for the lower fender areas. Otherwise look on Craigslist in Arizona or California for some rust free fenders, that's what I did.

I was under the impression that the Eastwood internal frame coating cold be applied over the factory primer and even the rust inside. Removing as much debris as possible helps but will not adversely affect a well saturated internal frame member. I plan on removing as much rust as possible before coating all internal frame components the same as Matt and then rustproofing the outside of the stock frame rails. At that point, I am going to rustproof the inside of the Bad Dog frame rail caps and then weld them over the original frame rails. That should protect them for another 40 years..... Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

very little progress today - family obligations overruled... got the radiator and fan back in and a few misc. fasteners. hoping for a dry afternoon tomorrow...

I've purchased two sets from Mike @ Banzai. He's a great person to deal with.

Well, it seems as time passes our Z cars are becoming more valuable!!! Its about time that one of the coolest cars ever to grace the road is gaining more respect within the car collecting world. But personally, no mater what, always have and always will LOVE my 240Z. Like I've posted in the past...."Its so much fun to drive, it should be illegal".

very nice.

Enjoyed them Steve ..... thanks

Good stuff Steve. Really enjoyed the close ups!

RIP Mr. K.