Leaderboard

Yes this is the second time around for the little L. And boy I have learned a lot and probably forgot a lot too! First time around the machinist/builder did most of the work. He dissembled and assembled the block and head and I put the two together. I degreed the cam and everything else to get it running. It's an early E-88 head on a stock P30 block .030 over pistons. The head had a full Schneider stage 2 kit-cam,springs,retainers,rockers. The engine ran very well and dynoed 155RWHP with SU's. But then I had some issues that i could only determine as valve issues caused by faulty rockers. here's where the learning comes in and hopefully no forgetting. I think my machinist let the bad rockers slip thru by not doing a complete wipe pattern on the lash pads too. Anyway, since L24 rebuilds are trending on CZCC , I thought I would join in! The block went back to the machinist for re hone for new rings. There was some minor scoring in the bores, but it all cleaned up. Probably towards the max piston/wall clearance, but she will be loose!! I ordered sealed power rings to match the Sealed power pistons. The only rings I could find in .030 over that had the Napier second ring-which the machinist insisted on. I swapped out the crank with another one I had. The reason was I was running a speedi sleeve on the rear main nad I wanted to eliminate it. I pulled my crank from my original no# matching block. It cleaned up perfect with no grinding, just polishing. The pistons and rods looked great also. The motor only ran about 13K miles, so I was hoping they would be fine. Just scotch brited the pistons and checked the ring glands. So I bought new main and rod bearings, new rings, new freeze plugs. The plan is for a pre assembly to check oil clearances, thrust clearance, deck height, HG height, bore notching clearance. I will try and throw up some picsw every once in a while:) The attached pic shows what a work horse the Z really is! Also attached is the block from prior rebuild and also the head the first time around.

Finally getting some movement on the restoration of my S30 after months of being broke. The only comfort is that my car is in Jamaica while I am working in Barbados so the distance keeps me from getting frustrated. This was the day my friend went to pick it up from the previous owner who was restoring it but had some health challenges and decided to sell it. Circumstances were not ideal but lucky me. This was months after purchasing the car and I still had not been to Jamaica to see it. This was taken by another friend while the mechanic checked on the condition of the parts provided. The plan is to keep the matching L24 and upgrade things to make it more roadworthy. I was lucky enough to have a friend donate two (2) Mikuni 44 PHH's he found in a storeroom from his father's S30 and I got 2 more at a steal of a price. So now I have four 44 PHH's so I guess 1 will be spare. These will be restored at some point in the future and a Harada Shokai manifold purchased for them. But I will be using the 3 screw SUs to get her started and on the road. Thanks to Bruce for his advice and parts. And this is the last pic I received from the mechanic. Matching L24 should be going back in in the coming days. You know who is dying to go back home now.

Z432 prevent overcooling I made a instant solution for Z432 overcooling. S20 engine has a very well designed cooling system so in the winter it tends to be overcooled. Last month I drove Z432 1200 km ( 800 miles) to be shoot for the magazine in Tokyo, high way cruising under 3 degrees celsious ( 38 F) was something hard situation as looking at temp meter did not go up, always stayed around 1/4 of its scale. So I made this , leather cover for the oil cooler. Very easy, 30 min to finish. And worked very well. If I could stamp NISSAN humberger on it, it woud be perfect for authenticity. Kats

Just to add my bit of experience. About two years ago I decided to get a long block F54/E88 combo built up shortly after I purchased my '73 240z. I saved the original running block and the E88 went into the build. I chose a locally known engine builder, and had it built to a 2.9L ~10.0:1 comp ratio (heavily ported) masterpiece. It was fully balanced, blueprinted, etc. My builder also said the pistons were protruding too far out of the block to his liking. He said my choices were were a 2mm head gasket (could have been less) for $220 or for him to mill the tops of the pistons in his shop for $150. I was a little nervous (he is mainly known for making American drag racing and circle track engines) about the milling but went with his advice and my gut. I'm glad to read Rebello does the same thing. ~1300 miles later, I have no complaints whatsoever. Did a proper break-in, 500 mile oil change, stayed under 4,000 rpms first 1,000 miles. Now I flog her and she's a blast. Still needs some suspension work, but the engine has performed wonderfully thus far.

Since you mentioned piston cleaning, I intend to use Berryman Chem-Dip Parts and Carburetor Cleaner after viewing this Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bRiZOTTel34 Getting ready to post this, I also found this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VcPkLuX4CAU this stuff is supposed to have a modern solvent that penetrates the carbon overnight. Available at Walmart

Boy this is a lot easier than before, I'm learning something I guess. It'd be hard not to when I check in with you all everyday. The head has been off before for sure, I guess for the steel valve seats? and a newer style spray bar. It has big phillips head screws in the bottom holes so I guess it's a multi car type. It looks good too. The head gasket has overly large fire rings so I guess it's for a 86mm bore, it has a copper coating on both sides too. The only 2 bolts I broke were the 2 holding the exhaust manifold to the exhaust pipe. I drained the radiator and only got a little over a gallon last Sunday. Today I removed that plug at the back of the block and got a GUSHER of coolant, at least a gallon maybe more, I'll have a catch pan next time. Cylinder walls are as slick as glass, so standard size rings will work fine hopefully. 280Z, 1st rebuild worried me sick and took 6 months. This 240Z will be done in a third of that time and done right, blue block not bar-b-q grill black paint. All the topside is done, tomorrow will be the exhaust pipe then the transmission. Saturday the blocks coming out and apart. Then clean, clean and some more cleaning.

What are "overheard camshafts?" they are so loud you can "over hear" them?

Sad to see RM Auctions giving credit to a certain "renowned German designer"

Thanks for the pictures, Kats. These are great! I love the body shell pictures. Bare metal!?!!

Hi Kats, I was bidding on that same parts catalog. I didn't realize I was bidding against you, but I'm glad you got it. Thanks for sharing the photos. Its funny that many people in the US , even those with Fairlady Z's, think there is nothing they can get from JDM publications just because we can't read Japanese and most of the parts aren't available for purchase through the Nissan dealerships anymore. -Mike