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A little progress today. I received my custom plug wires, heat shield, manifold stud kit, and new valve cover bolts from Datsun Spirit today. I also installed my new 3 row aluminum radiator. I also hooked up my battery for the first time in over a year. No blown fuses or fires, so thats a good sign. No dash lights though...hmmm.

I believe the pair going to the 2 position connector are for the "control panel illumination lamp" and the other pair of independent wires are for the "indicator lamp A/T only" I believe I have found both on the 75 wiring diagram. One of them is directly below the fuseblock on the diagram and the other is horizontally to the right from the first one. I'll clip a pic from the wiring diagram if you can't find them. Let me know.

Posting a picture of what you need might help... C

...part 2 cont. Inside the top of the casting. Notice that the 240Z casting has a little "SD" icon cast into it where as the F-10 pump lacks this detail. Identical casting otherwise. Here is how you swap the lower oil seal. Just fit a thin flat blade screw driver under the lip and pry up. TIP: Make sure to place a rag over the top when you do this as the pressure fit retainer clip will shoot out a few feet from where you are working. You can see that the retainer is already removed from the pump on the right. Oil seal comparison. Our old one on the left was torn and becoming brittle. Swap out the oil seals and replace the retainer by taking a socket about the same size a the inside of the retainer and tap it back in with a hammer. It might take a few times as the retainer wants to slip around. I had a helper when I did this operation. Line up the peen marks if possible. Install the diaphragm opposite how you took the old one out. You install the end of the rod diagonally so it can fit under the actuator arm. You may need to move the actuator arm down to allow the rod end to clear. It should pop into place. Install the pump back onto the engine block at this point. It's way easier this way trust me. Reassemble the upper casting using the bright new screws, top cover plate, and gasket from the new pump. Then screw the rebuilt fuel transfer housing onto the diaphragm base using the rest of the bright new screws. Reattach hoses and such. TIP: I did swap out the fuel inlet tube as the original one was much shorter and had a thinner OD tube diameter than the one from the F-10 pump. You may need to temporarily bolt the fuel transfer housing to the engine block to get enough torque to unscrew the inlet tube. These have tapered threads so they will seal against fuel leakage. No need to use plumbers tape or any sealer. The more you screw on the threads the tighter it will get. Crank up the engine and look for any leaks. All in all this took us about an hour to do and only cost me about $30.00. How awesome it that!!