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What I did on the weekend


drunkenmaster

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I’d go one of the bigger GT30s , or a smaller GT35. Both will require external gate.

With the GT30 it will make boost from 2300 – 2800rpm range and full boost by 3500 rpm, as a friend of mine has this setup in his R33 GTS-T.

The car has on 14.5psi 320rwkw, and run 12.3 @ 124mph on street rubber.

Also my mechanic got a RB30DET (rb26 head) motor in his GTR that makes 505rwkw on synergy, but that’s a big $$$ motor. He did 1:18 around Sandown with only 400rwkw a few months ago on street tyres, and drove it home after. :classic:

What other mods are you doing, what ECU ?

Also who will be tuning it once finished ?

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1:18 is f@#$ing quick for a road car. Infact its bloody quick for a race car. Must be a real point and shot car though.I bet his engine cost more than my whole race car. Let me know when hes going to be on the track again cuase I would love to see it.

Ash

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zr240 ............ I think this picture will answer your question :classic:

rpmgtr.jpg

check out the website for details:

RACEPACE MOTORSPORT

drunkenmaster.................I would highly recommend RACEPACE Motorsport for tuning of your car. I got Sinisha to go there with his rb26 240Z and he found another 40rwkw at the top end, and gained 60rwkw at 5000rpm. He also did my GT30 install and tune.

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I contacted racepace and will see what they say.

The reason I chose this NZ workshop is that they specialise in building these motors and have a 10 second skyline using one, they also offered me a great deal on fabricating engine mounts and sump for me using a dummy car.

HOWEVER it is turning out not to be as smooth as I wanted when they accidently got in a 280ZX dummy car instead of a 240z/260Z, im now trying to find a 240Z/260Z wreck in NZ.

It was a gamble, we will see what happens in the end

thanks

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Originally posted by 260DET

Very little extra weight and its low weight.

Im not sure what you mean?

I have decided to shy away from a cage so hopefully the seam welding, rails extended to the rear and maybe some strut tower braces will be the next best thing as far as flex is concerned.

Here is another pic of the fabricated rail extension, obviously not finished yet

post-3894-14150793537871_thumb.jpg

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Originally posted by drunkenmaster

Im not sure what you mean?

I have decided to shy away from a cage so hopefully the seam welding, rails extended to the rear and maybe some strut tower braces will be the next best thing as far as flex is concerned.

Here is another pic of the fabricated rail extension, obviously not finished yet

IMHO your extensions are a good idea as is the seam welding. The extensions weigh very little and the weight is low as in center of gravity.

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Originally posted by Ben

I had my shell stitch welded when it was restored & the plastic interior panel still creak when going around corners!

......................................................

A mates car was seam welded and has a bolt in half cage fitted. And its plastic is quiet, unlike mine which is now getting the half cage treatment too.

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