Just a couple links for anyone who lands here in the future:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/282195-2?qs=tAlKl34sQZvipf6sMzAM1Q%3D%3D&srsltid=AfmBOopeu97zCLCKVjc6MLBwsS4YlfJZ3U0vIRUzRHNCUAktrArMAGhi

https://www.te.com/en/product-282195-2.html

1 hour ago, f1d094 said:

I'm generally familiar with the brown-out condition the Z's ran under due to an undersized alternator or so it was explained to me when I replaced my headlight switch assembly..

I was talking about a different problem. You'll know it if it happens.

On the loose pins, if it was mine I might put a slight twist on every male pin in the ECU. Increasing effective width. I'd have to check the contact points to be sure it would work though.

On to the next problem. Might as well get ready for the failing ignition module. It's a high probability.

7 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

I was talking about a different problem. You'll know it if it happens.

Oh? Do you mean above and beyond burning out the internals on the selector and high-beams swtiches? Do you think this is something to be concerned about now that my power draw has been dropped so much?

11 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

put a slight twist on every male pin

GENIUS. I was literally just now chatting with my wife about how I can either make the female sides more grabby, or the male sides "fatter". Did not think of twisting to accomplish this. I will keep that one in the arsenal, thanks! Now I just need to get the harness connector disassembled and verify root cause.

13 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

failing ignition module

I already have a spare...which might actually be in the car now (ref. prior comment somewhere). I had an unrelated issue several years ago and put in a new one but the old one tested out great. Uncertain which is in the car now. If I remember I'll open the box in my parts bin and see who's hiding in there.

Edited yesterday at 04:23 PM1 day by f1d094

I had something similar on my L28ET that turned out to be a cracked solder joint on a connector pin. It drove me crazy for months, very random. Much like yours sometimes it would restart right away, sometimes take a few to several minutes to restart, didn't seem to be temperature related. Mine was not on the ECU but on the CAS optical unit in the distributor so that the ECU wouldn't always get the proper timing signal. You might look at the distributor (cracked magnet?) or the Electronic Ignition unit, or maybe the ECU connector solder to the board, maybe the EFI Relay or power to the ECU.

@Captain Obvious - When disassembling the harness connector one end of my gasket crumbled. You seem to have some quality Kung Fu in the electronics parts department. Any idea where I might find a replacement? I found this but no dice on the individual component.

For future someone who also needs to disassemble their harness connector:

1. MAKE A NOTE: that here are two long plastic retaining comb-clips that hold in ALL of the pins on each side. It doesn't look like it wants to fall out, but it is pretty loose and if it falls out all your unlabeled connectors are coming too

2. Cut the zip tie and remove tape from the harness/connector

3. Remove the small retaining screw located on the end of the connector by the hook/hinge

4. Use a plastic spudger to run around the edges of the rubber gasket inside the connector

5. Slide the cover away from the harness

Things I wish I knew before I started!

Next step will be to put everything back in place but leave the cover off the harness plug and do some wire-wiggling/tapping that way. Starting this way would have been the Pro-Move™

Live and learn...