On 7/11/2025 at 4:15 PM, Terrapin Z said:

I liken him California Datsun

I think that's Al Allen, aka URGELIS.

Edited Sunday at 01:15 AM2 days by Zed Head

@URGELIS double spit!

Looks like something off "truth social". 🤣🤣🤣

He must have read the book.

Context? Where did that come from? It is Saturday night of course... 🤩

On 7/10/2025 at 7:14 PM, z3beemer said:

When i did my restoration project on my 73Z I purchased a rebuilt turn signal switch from datsun universe. It worked great for about a year. The other day I started having problems with the turn signal on the left side. It would not lock in or illuminate. Everything on the right side worked fine. After checking all the obvious potential culprits, I contacted datsun universe and he told me to send it in and he'd check it out. Below is his response as to what he found and a potential long-term fix. My question is: does anyone know who may sell this modification or how to fabricate one. By the way, the guy at datsun universe is a great guy, very helpful, and fast turn around. I also bought a reconditioned headlight switch from him as well. He does all the rebuilding himself.

Datsun Universe reply to me.....

"Hello Paul, the attached picture illustrates what your switch issue is; too much voltage coursing through the switch and fouling the contacts. This is a normal issue for a 240z. When I measured continuity on the left side turn signal switch it fluctuated between 35.xx ohms and 65.xx ohms. Anything over .19 ohms is going to start causing problems for switch operation.

I knew I was going to find something like this when I opened the turn signal switch up. The long term solution for this issue is to invest in a 240z aftermarket plug and play turn signal relay harness. It only sends something like 2 amps through the switch as opposed to the 13 or so that comes from the stock direct battery hook up.

I cleaned the contacts and changed the spring plate and turn signal switch housing and the freshly painted turn signal lever will dry overnight.. You have a good switch here;

The turn signal geometry and parts thereof are good, the stroke of the turn signal lever is good. the lever locks in place like is supposed to, the switch return function still works etc.

I would invest in that relay harness or learn to clean the contacts yourself ( s30 ZCAR switches are made to disassemble for maintenance) as my switch warranty is voided by vehicle electrical causing switch damage so that is the end of my commitment concerning repair of your switch".

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

For me at least, this has been an extremely common problem. On BOTH my personal car and many - if not all - the Z's that came through the shop and throughout the Z community here in Phoenix.

Yes, there may be too much amperage going though those contacts as resistance builds up in the wire and connectors BUT:

What I have found in every turn signal switch I've repaired (and that has been MANY) is - The original chrome plating on the solid contacts (non-moving) has worn off due to repeated electric arcing across the contact. When you clean the carbon off it leaves a nice brass contact surface that fouls MUCH more quickly. Therefore, depending on your use, you get another 6 months to a year or so before you have to repeat the contact cleaning process. Then your flashers work well enough for a time and have to be taken apart again. (and, you can only un-bend and re-bend those metal tabs that hold the switch together a certain number of times...)

My flasher switch (which I have absolutely no idea if it was original to the car) worked well for a few years before I had to take it apart and clean the carbon fouled contacts. Then it became a 6-9 month cycle. I finally got tired of that and bought a different turn signal switch assembly off the internet. I was delighted that it worked well and lasted for quite a few years. I'll remind everyone that I daily drive my 260Z so my T/S get a fair amount of use. (I got this Z running and back on the road Spring of 2009)

DROPPING THE AMPERAGE going through the switch will definitely help the contacts to last longer (foul less). But I don't think it's necessarily the ultimate answer.

In my case, that didn't last forever either, and I am done with taking the stock switches apart and cleaning, and cleaning, and cleaning the contacts. SO, I followed another dudes post somewhere and replaced the stock switch with a standard metal 3-position rocker switch mounted such that the arm of the rocker is operated by the stock turn signal arm mechanics. Did it about a year and a half ago and I've been very satisfied with the operation. I can buy another one practically anywhere if I ever need to replace it. Under the clam shell you'd never know it was swapped looking at it. That was my solution.

I will say too that MY 260Z IS HEAVILY MODIFIED and is not trying to be original in it's representation at all. In fact lately I have replaced my entire engine bay harness and replaced all the stock wiring connectors with Deutsch connectors. As well as a new engine harness built for a different ECU and sheathed with Raychem.

The SECOND thing I will mention:

IF you remove the actual switch from the turn signal assembly and push it's little "nubin" that sticks out from side-to-side you'll notice that it goes full motion and insures that the rocker piece(s - if you have a 240) inside will spring solidly onto the fixed contacts EVERY SINGLE time. Now screw it back onto the assembly and watch it's movement. Even when the assembly parts are NEW, they won't move the switch fully from side-to-side! That sliding piece of plastic with the hole moves enough generally to cause the rocker to fall one way or another, but NOT full motion. As that piece of plastic wears against the metal it makes that action more and more sloppy. It affects the action one direction MORE than the other. SO, your LEFT SIDE SIGNAL going away is common. Usually it won't just disappear - it'll become "finicky" and works sporadically usually requiring you to move the T/S lever again or wiggle it to get it engaged (and the V-shaped bar to teeter all the way to one side). I may have pictures of the turn signal switch disassembled but I'm sure they can be found on the interweb.

I tried a few things to combat that problem as well, but in the end moving to a new toggle switch solved both problems.

Edited 23 hours ago23 hr by cgsheen1

I wonder if it's more of an early Z problem. Looks like Nissan changed the switch a few times over the years.

Datsun Z Electric Unit & Switch...

Datsun Z Electric Unit & Switch (2) Index

28 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

I wonder if it's more of an early Z problem. Looks like Nissan changed the switch a few times over the years.

Not saying the internal did not change along the way. Part number changes could just be partly related to the graphics on the switch as well.

They never sold the internals as separate items that I have heard of.

Did Nissan ever sell the internals separately? All I see is whole assemblies.

I don't think I have ever quoted myself in a reply 😂 New territory!!

30 minutes ago, Terrapin Z said:

They never sold the internals as separate items that I have heard of.

13 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

Did Nissan ever sell the internals separately? All I see is whole assemblies.

Oops. My post was about the "maybe". We're still on maybe. Maybe somebody has a 240Z and a 280Z switch that they could compare. Not that it would matter much. Just interesting.

No biggie, just funning. There are some maybe's.

I have a bunch of switches, just not marked as to what they are from. I rely on the visual differences. Graphics, plugs, wires, etc. They did change the switch plugs over the years too.

I purchased the headlight and the parking/taillight harness from Dave Irwin long ago and have not had a problem since.

I have H4 headlight bulbs and bright tail/ side lights. I did open and clean all my switches myself as well. Made all the difference. Still working well.

@cgsheen1

Can you provide an example of a turn signal you used as a replacement?

17 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Oops. My post was about the "maybe". We're still on maybe. Maybe somebody has a 240Z and a 280Z switch that they could compare. Not that it would matter much. Just interesting.

I've worked with both and they're basically the same but the 240Z switch has two arms and double the contacts plus an extra for the hazard switch bypass. They definitely figured a less complicated circuit starting with the 260.