Those cylinders look great. What brand of camera/borescope?

Four pages is a lot to review. Might help to summarize where you're at in the process. Cylinders look like they're ready for fuel, air, and spark.

19 hours ago, siteunseen said:

I would think the motor oil you're using squirted down the spark plugs holes would be good and take the valve cover off add soak the cam and valve train. Then turn it slowly clockwise from the the front and notice any hang ups or anything but smoothe rotation over and over. Leave the plugs out and use the starter but don't crank too long, short burst as to not burn the starter up. You will need a battery charger and don't rush the process, feel the starter and if it gets too hot to touch call it a day.

The coolant should be all the way up to the top of the radiator fill hole. Let it run until you see the coolant flowing. I would add some water to your coolant, it looks to be straight antifreeze. That's not bad but 50/50 is what most people do.

The only change I would make to the excellent info above would be to use Marvel Mystery Oil. It contains mineral oil and a solvent that dissolves anything sticky or gummy.

So got out there yesterday and today for a little bit. Pulled the valve cover and dumped some oil everywhere. Also decided to pull the cooling fan and shroud so I could have access to the front of the engine a little better. I cranked the engine over by hand and felt really smooth.

I decided to try the video function of the bore scope and see if I could post it. Mainly wanted to see what the cylinder was doing while I was cranking. I chose cylinder 3 since it was the worst looking. Actually doesnt look that bad.

Edit* Appartley this video has to be downloaded, so im uploading to youtube.

And lastly, here is a video of the engine cranking over. Sounds like it moves nicely, I hear a little bit of clattering at the end of the cycle.

On 10/24/2025 at 9:47 PM, Zed Head said:

Those cylinders look great. What brand of camera/borescope?

Four pages is a lot to review. Might help to summarize where you're at in the process. Cylinders look like they're ready for fuel, air, and spark.

The borescope is just a cheap Amazon peice. I'm pretty happy with it. I wasnt expecting to use it a lot so I didnt want an expensive one. If I had to do over again, I might look into a four way articulating. The two way is fine, just have to twist the spine to get it where i want.

Amazon Teslong Bore-scope

While I was at it, I also checked for spark. I have none. Something about this was mentioned when I bought it, but I thought it was just one cylinder. The fuel line was diconnected 'just in case' I know the fuel is bad and the car also came with a new fuel pump.

I need to rewatch one of the new 'roadkill' episodes they put out recently to test a coil. I think they are trying to revive the roadkill format via their respective youtube channels. They put out a 4h long episode on Rotsun between the two of them. I could totally just google, but where is the fun in that.

Shameless promo, cause this is the car and show format that made me want to get a project. I really enjoy the problem solving.

Edited 5 hours ago5 hr by nowak1981

Probably want to check all of the air intake ductwork up to the throttle blade for mouse habitation before using the starter to spin the engine. The air filter box opens with the wing nuts. The AFM hoses need to have the clamps loosened. The hoses can be pretty stuck, you might want a thin screwdrive or a pick to work between the rubber and metal to break them free. Probably need to remove the AFM if you want to get the hoses off completely. The wire clip on the connector can be difficult.

Also, check those fuel hoses. Looks like a PO has already fixed one. And the hoses to the injectors. Once you crank up the fuel pressure you'll know more. Might as well get a gauge also to check pressure and pressure dropoff. It will tell you if the regulator is blown out or the injectors are leaking or the check valve in the pump is shot. All common issues after sitting. That pump is probably shot just based on its appearance.

The engine looks about ready to go. You'll want to check power to the coil and verify that the original 1975 electronic ignition module is intact, by the fuse box. They fail often. Open up the distributor and see if the bushings are shot. See if the vacuum advance and mechanical advance mechanisms are free. If they're not, don't force them, they can be saved with careful lubrication and disassembly but if you force a rusty mechanism the plastic ball brearing frame will break. I'd check the distributor before starting the engine, even the normal forces can probably break a stuck distributor.

Ignore the blue arrow. I was going to mention the ZX fan but already did.

You have quite a bit of work ahead of you still. Before you put a battery in it and connect it up take a meter and check for resistance between the negative and positive posts. If you have a short there will be very little resistance. Get the wiring sorted out before even installing a battery.

Also, just a seed for future thought, be very careful that you know which cable is positive and which is negative. Nissan used black for both. Not uncommon to fry electronics on these old EFI Z's with a backward hookup. Looking at this mess it looks like the PO was trying to solve a problem or was getting ready to part things out.

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You can check fire at each plug with a 12v light but before that you should make sure the firing order is right. 153624 which is not the same as a straight 6 Ford or Chevy.