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Ignition switch


DedZed

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Hello, I’m just a novice gear head and learning as I go. I have an early series 1970 240Z and I think the ignition switch is not working. The pic show the switch which has one tab which I circled. The tab fits nicely in a slot in the ignition housing with a screw. However, replacements have two tabs. Do I buy one and file off a tab? Does it matter? Thank you in advance.

C6EFC0D7-D162-420A-9085-AF3FC243425A.jpeg

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Have you tried working it with a screwdriver while it's open?  Sometimes it's the mechanical part not the electrical switch.

I've never seen a one-eared switch.  Wonder if there are other differences you need to consider.

 

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The ignition switch might not be working because a previous owner has been monkeying around with the input wiring, you might want to trace those wires back until you find the splices, those aren't the original colours for the ignition wires. I have a number of ignition switches, I'll get back to you in storage, I'll have a look through them and see if any of them have one tab, I'll get back to you.

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2 hours ago, DedZed said:

Do I buy one and file off a tab?

If you try the things suggested and decide that you need that part then breaking/filing off the extra ear should be fine.

Still interesting that you have a one-eared switch.  Probably works just like the two-eared.

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The quick-connect terminals (Fastons in AMP parlance) were crimped in a less than optimal fashion.  I would strongly recommend to anyone needing to replace such style terminals to buy the very best available - AMP, Panduit, Molex, etc. 

Absolutely pass on the Amazon/EBAY Chinese versions that are reliably unreliable! 

Also, buy a first-rate ratcheting crimper that crimps the wire AND the wire insulation.  It'll absolutely pay you in the end.

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I like the connectors that vintage connections has, the density of the metal they use to make the terminal end is more than the ones that I got on amazon. Also the rubber sleeves they have are look more "period correct".

All in all it makes the wiring feel more secure. I almost broke down and rewired the engine harness again, i talked myself out of it, i forgot my reasoning though.

For most wires in the car I think 18 gauge TLX/GLX wiring will be sufficient depth on the length. I ended up ordering

https://www.wirebarn.com/11-Pack-of-18-Gage-GXL-Wire---------------------ELEVEN-11-Colors-25-Foot-Each-Color----------BlackRedBlueGreenYellowBrown-White-Orange-Pink-Violet-Gray_p_550.html

As well as some 12guage GLX wire for lines that draw more power... this wire is certainly better than the stuff at the local hardware store, for the price its probably cheaper too.

You'll want to get some open barrel crimpers to make this all come together, https://www.amazon.com/Crimping-26-16AWG-0-14-1-5mm²-Connectors-Terminals/dp/B00OMMZ502/ref=sr_1_21?dchild=1&keywords=open+barrel+crimper&qid=1628662108&sr=8-21

should do the trick, I like the removable dies in the crimps, at least if i start modernizing the engine harness i can go grab a new set of dies that match the terminal style.

 

IMG_2047.jpgIMG_1985.jpeg

 

Are the ends of the red wires melted? The blue plastic looks a bit weird.

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