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Rear Drum Brakes Backing Plate


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Trying to get the Drum Brakes Backing Plate off of the strut assembly on my 1975 280z. The strut is off of the car and the stub axle is removed and well as the companion flange. The four bolts on the backing plate have been removed as well as the brake line. The backing plate and the axle tube appear to be one piece due to rust. I'm pretty sure they are two separate pieces but I don't want to damage anything using an air chisel to separate them. Can anyone confirm this? Really appreciate it!

E

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You can try a oil a rust penetrant like Kano Kroil or PB blaster and soak it. The other option is heat. Sounds like it’s seized on there. 

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You should be able to drive a narrow putty knife between the hub and backing plate to create a gap.  Like Yarb said, soak the hole where the hub meets the backing plate and all around the perimeter of the joint.  A good penetrant is a 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone.  Heat on the backing plate outside the hub flange might also shock the bond.

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They are not one piece. They just need a little persuasion.

Take the bolts out:
P1130336.JPG

Turn it over and give it a judicious whack. Don't go postal on it, but some BFH persuasion might be necessary.
P1130337.JPG

And here's a shot with the plate removed:
P1130342.JPG

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How does everybody manage to take photos and/or videos while working on a project?  I am always too busy and my hands are always dirty, so getting my phone out take pics mid-job never happens.  I do try to stop and document a few times once I finish a task and clean my hands and always do at the end of the day or when the project is completed.  I guess many of you have kids that you can lean on to be the photographers.

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Haha! I got two parts to the answer to that... First is that the pics of that backing plate work was a special situation where I had other people over for a "rear bearing party". I was doing mostly directing and telling other people what to do (clearly, as it should be). On that day, I got to hold the camera and take pics of other people doing real work. That's not me swinging the hammer, it's one of the other attendees.

The second part to the answer is "I've found it worth the effort to try to make it happen." By that, I mean... I do so many car projects (that I have to refer to again sometime in the future) that I really now try to take pics along the way.

Still, there are plenty of projects that, just like Jeff, I'm in hurry-up mode and can't deal with the camera at the time. And as Murphy dictates, those hurry-up jobs are invariably some of the ones I WISH I had pics of at some point later.   :facepalm:

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Thanks for the pics! That is exactly what I was looking for.

I also take photos every step of the way for my own reference. It really helps to be able to look back at something  you worked on weeks ago, especially when you are putting it back together for the first  time. As far as how I take the pics......I use Nitrile gloves to work on almost everything so the hands stay clean. I'm always pulling them off to take pics.

E

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Glad to help. So yeah, it's just age and rust that's holding it together (like me). Clean some rust and old paint off the spindle snout where the plate rides, douse it with penetrating lube of choice, and give it a whack on the back side.

Out of curiosity... Why are you taking it apart in the first place? Disk brake conversion? Cleaning everything up for paint?

The reason I ask is that if you already have the bearings out and those plates off, I would take the opportunity to upgrade to the 77-78 style backing plates so you can use the better wheel cylinders. I would try very hard to not go back to the 70-76 style floating cylinders. They're not nearly as reliable as the newer system.

But that's just me... I've got a 77.  LOL 

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Removed the backing plates! Used some Deep Creep and then hit it a couple of times with a rubber mallet. Came right off. I have the whole rear suspension apart. I plan on replacing all of the bushings, new struts, spring and new brakes. I have not decided whether to go with the disc brake upgrade or not. If I don't,  I will put new backing plates on and will definitely look into the 77-78 style. Everything needs replaced so the

better wheel cylinders sound like a good idea.

 

.brakes.jpgbacking plate.jpg

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Well I don't know the availability of the 77-78 rear plates, but if you decide you're not going for a disk brake mod, I'd look into it.

Lets see... what would you need? You would need 77-78 style:

rear plates
wheel cylinders
parking brake arm / adjuster mechanism
rubber grommets for adjuster arms where they feed through the plates
brake shoes and hardware kit

The wheel cylinders, shoes and hardware kits are cheap, plentiful, and easy to find. The grommets are a dealer only thing, but they're not expensive. The only parts you would have to hunt for are the backing plates and parking brake adjuster arms. You'd need to find someone who pulled those parts off a 77-78.

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I went with Mustang GT500 rear brakes on my race car.  Silvermine sells the mounting brackets and the rotors are vented.  The calipers and rotors are from a S197 Mustang GT500.  From everything I've read, the Maxima and 240SX rear disc conversions don't have enough stopping power to match the front vented Toyota 4x4 caliper/Z31 rotor setup.  Unfortunately, I will never get the chance to try my new brakes before I sell the race car, so I can't give a review.  I will try to upload some pics of my setup later.

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Captain Obvious, thank you for the list! I will keep it in the event I go in that direction. One of the many decisions forthcoming.

I'm going to start looking at conversions soon.

Jeff G, Good intel on the various availability of brake set ups. 

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Glad to help.

Oh, and BTW... There's a guy here on the forum @S30Driver currently parting out a 78. I don't know what his plans are for the car, but he would have the backing plates and parking brake arms you need.

And full disclosure... He'll give me a 10% finders fee for parts he sells you.   LOL  He doesn't know if yet, but he will.  :ph34r:

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I rebuilt all suspension a while back, put the rears back together, thinking I "may" upgrade to discs some day. Well, now I'm undoing everything to upgrade to discs. My advice: just do it now. Rear brakes are not that effective anyway, but might as well upgrade to something easier to maintain than looking for new wheel cylinders down the road. Just my .02.

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9 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Glad to help.

Oh, and BTW... There's a guy here on the forum @S30Driver currently parting out a 78. I don't know what his plans are for the car, but he would have the backing plates and parking brake arms you need.

And full disclosure... He'll give me a 10% finders fee for parts he sells you.   LOL  He doesn't know if yet, but he will.  :ph34r:

My plans are to get it out of the driveway as soon as possible!   Just mainly the glass left to come out.

Do you want your commision sent to your usual off shore account or added to your Zcon beverage budget?   LOL

78 Parts.jpg

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If it doesn’t work out with the money transfer to the off shore account I have a set. Just a backup plan if needed. 😂😂😂

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10 hours ago, S30Driver said:

My plans are to get it out of the driveway as soon as possible!   Just mainly the glass left to come out.

Do you want your commision sent to your usual off shore account or added to your Zcon beverage budget?   LOL

78 Parts.jpg

You are the man, man. 3 car garage with a Z in front. I recently read that's a sickness like a @Diseazd. LOL

 

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  • 1 month later...

I am just past this point in the disassembly of my rear suspension. Kind of in the same boat as the OP, don't want to just start hammering away on parts and end up breaking something.

I cannot get the inner bearings to budge. Tried the drift pin method in the restoration book, no luck whatsover. Any suggestions? First time Datsun tearer-aparter here. TIA.

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35 minutes ago, MrScott said:

I am just past this point in the disassembly of my rear suspension. Kind of in the same boat as the OP, don't want to just start hammering away on parts and end up breaking something.

I cannot get the inner bearings to budge. Tried the drift pin method in the restoration book, no luck whatsover. Any suggestions? First time Datsun tearer-aparter here. TIA.

Can you recap?  I assume you cut the stakes off the nuts, removed the nuts and then used a slide hammer to get the stub axle out?  With the stub axle out, the bearings should come out fairly easily with a brass drift and hammer.  Is this what you have done so far?  When I did mine, the inner and outer bearings stayed in the knuckles and the stub axles came out with no bearings.  I've done others where the outer bearings will stay on the stub axle when it's removed.

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3 hours ago, Jeff G 78 said:

Can you recap?  I assume you cut the stakes off the nuts, removed the nuts and then used a slide hammer to get the stub axle out?  With the stub axle out, the bearings should come out fairly easily with a brass drift and hammer.  Is this what you have done so far?  When I did mine, the inner and outer bearings stayed in the knuckles and the stub axles came out with no bearings.  I've done others where the outer bearings will stay on the stub axle when it's removed.

Sorry, I should have provided more detail. The car is totally disassembled at this point. I am now taking all of the suspension components apart to rebuild/refresh. The stub axle came right out with a couple of good whacks with a hammer (with a piece of steel on top taking the direct blows of course). Outer bearings went out with the stub axle, but the inner bearings just don't want to move.

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Did you pry the grease seal out first?  If not, the bearing will not come out. My seals were very difficult to get out. If you did already extract the seals, make sure your drift is on the race and not the stop which is part of the hub. 

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