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New Way to remove Stainless Drip Rail Trim


zKars

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Here is my official post demonstrating on video, how to easily remove your drip rail trim with, wait for it, a guaranteed of no damage or bending or warping or anything unpleasant. It is simple, direct, uses common tools and so far has been fool proof for me.

Note that this was originally used on a 510’s drip rail trim which is virtually impossible to remove without damage.

I have to give credit where due, I googled it and found a guy doing it to a classic Chevy something or other. Looked brutal, but in actuality it is not. 

You need two tools. A hammer, and a “thing’ with a blunt straight tip, no more than one inch long. Should be at least 1/2 or 3/4” to spread the force. Needs to be at least 12” long or so.

If you look at the trim on the car, on the underside, you will see a very thin edge, less than 1/16” wrapped around the bottom of the pinch weld. The technique involves hooking your blunt thing behind that little lip, along its length, 90 degrees to the painted body next to it. Then tapping your thing about 6” down the length of it to drive that little hooked lip off the pinch weld. 

A video is worth a thousand words

Edited by zKars
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Here I precariously setup my camera on a pail inside the car (thank you grand daughter for letting me borrow your plasticine), facing toward the bottom front edge of the trim.

My “thing” tool is my favorite tire changing bar that is thick, tapered and tough as hell. I use it for many prying and beating operations, 

I sharpened the end to a flat crisp edge. It is about 1/8 thick. 

Have a look.

Edited by zKars
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Continue tapping it off all the way around, in about 1-2 “ movement stations. Don’t do this over the curved corner. It will come off by itself there. You can start at either end.

About the only “issue” with this technique is over the length by the 1/4 window. Hard to tap from the inside there with the glass in the way. 

So far, if I start at the front, but the time i get to the quarter window, the thing just falls off that last foot or so with a tiny twist and tug game. 

I tried using a flooring tool called a Z bar (how appropriate!) that lets you hook the edge and tap well out to the side of the car. The one I have is too wide, (1.5” ish) all I’d have to do is make it narrower

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  • 2 years later...

Rubber hammer and appropriate sacrifices to the deity of your choice.

Hmmmm, start at the bend I think and work either way. Just remember you are attaching it over the top lip first, then snapping it on over the bottom as you go along banging it with the rubber mallet.

Oh yeah, and remove all the extra paint that may have been applied to this area on a repaint first. Needs to be stock paint thickness......

 

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