On 10/18/2025 at 10:23 PM, Patcon said:

Do you have a 510 door or trim with any remnants on it?

Let me take a look. I only have a 2 door, not a wagon. I have some NOS outer stainless strips. And I may have the inner strips as well. I will try to get some pictures for you.

The first two pics are some 510 4 door outer door/window trim pieces. The second two are 510 2 door outer door/window trim pieces. The rubber looks to be the same shape to me for each of them. The next two pics show the groove on the inside top edge of the door where the inner rubber w/s goes. It is a simple u channel. The last three pictures are of NOS inner rubber weather strips for the 2 door. The front and rear doors of the wagon should use the same inner and outer w/s from a design standpoint, right?

Cody continues to make progress on his car.

Thanks to SteveJ for helping us sort the engine bay harness @SteveJ

He has the harness in and has started sorting out the electrical issues. There are quite a few

We think we have a solution for the throttle control. It's loosely based on Ken Firch's cable system. His bracket won't work but we are working on making a heat shiel that will also hold a throttle cable and hooks for the throttle return screws. It will mount to the two lower studs on the SU's. The smaller SU's only have two studs and they are set diagonally.

We are planning on using the the mounts at the balance tube to add a different 10mm OD tube with a donor part from a 240z. Which will supply a ball end for the cable to connect to

I worked on a template for the heat shield today. I don't have a good way to brake the sheet metal so we will need to sort that out. We are leaning towards using 1mm stainless sheet...

I have a 30" Harborfreight brake. What kinds of electrical issues are you finding?

44 minutes ago, SteveJ said:

I have a 30" Harborfreight brake. What kinds of electrical issues are you finding?

He didn't have license plates lights. He found that one. It was an unconnected ground up by the hatch torsion bars.

His reverse lights have him stumped. One works; the other doesn't. It shows voltage and continuity but won't light up.

He added LED's in the gauge pod but they flash slowly and we don't know why...

I told him to text you... He hasn't yet

8 minutes ago, Patcon said:

He didn't have license plates lights. He found that one. It was an unconnected ground up by the hatch torsion bars.

His reverse lights have him stumped. One works; the other doesn't. It shows voltage and continuity but won't light up.

He added LED's in the gauge pod but they flash slowly and we don't know why...

I told him to text you... He hasn't yet

Make sure the reverse lights have continuity on the ground side.

For the gauge lights, make sure the rheostat is at full bright.

13 hours ago, Patcon said:

I don't have a good way to brake the sheet metal so we will need to sort that out.

I've seen good results achieved by hammering the metal over the long edge of a length of 6" structural I-beam. Use Vise-Grips to clamp the metal to the I-beam. Then hammer from one end to the other, making 3 to 4 passes to get from flat to fully bent.

19 hours ago, SteveJ said:

Make sure the reverse lights have continuity on the ground side.

For the gauge lights, make sure the rheostat is at full bright.

I dont believe the 510 has a rheostat

I recall somebody found a person to rebuild heater valves. Does anyone recall who that rebuilder was?

510 valves are costly

@siteunseen The infamous Librarian. Please do your due diligence and bail Charles out of the issue at hand. You Da Best!!

Namerow has a pdf from Palladin on rebuilding a ZX valve with a NAPA kit.

And, as I noted in 2023, that NAPA kit seems to be NLA. But do your own checks. You might just get lucky and find one sitting on some NAPA shop's shelves.

I just re-checked my old files. The NAPA kit (PN 6601000) was described as a 'RANCO HTR-100' rebuild kit. It was evidently applicable to the heaters used in the Studebaker Avanti, so it's conceivable that it was used across the entire Studebaker line (Lark, Hawk, etc). A little snooping around a Studebaker owners club website might turn up a lead. RANCO appears to have been swallowed up by Robertshaw. Most of the focus for the RANCO product line these days appears to be in electronic temperature controllers used for commercial/industrial heating systems. I suspect that the 'RANCO' of 2025 may be nothing more than a brand name (i.e. it's unlikely you'll find a RANCO factory with a parts desk).

Just one thing, though: I see that NAPA Canada lists something called a 'URO Parts Heater Valve Repair Kit'. A little checking indicates that URO Parts is a brand marketed by A.P.A. Industries (Simi Valley, CA). A.P.A. provides aftermarket parts (incl. cooling system parts) for a variety of European, Asian and North American cars and trucks. In their website, they say: "A.P.A. specializes in accurate reproduction parts for classic vehicles, including a wide variety of items that are no longer available from the dealer". Maybe there might be some leads there.

The heater control valve design used in the 510 and Z probably wasn't unique to Nissan. In fact, the Nissan heater design bears certain resemblances to the British 'Smiths' unit that was used in so many UK cars back in the 1950's and 60's. A little investigation along these lines might turn up a British shop that specializes in heater restorations and has a back room filled with obscure parts like a little rubber washer that will fit your 510's control valve. Try this link for a starting point...

The MG Experience - Smith's Heater Restoration

Edited 39 minutes ago39 min by Namerow