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wide ratio FS5W71B slipping out of 3rd & 4th


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I'm not sure how accurate this is since it should be checked but here's what I've found in regards to parts that match up part numbers between 4 Speed-F4W71B (from Sept. 1971) and 5 Speed-F571B (from August 1976).

This suggests that those 4-speed transmissions may be of use if they can be found in good condition.

CrossReference 4 and 5 speed.pdf

Edited by Jeff Berk
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  • 2 weeks later...

I found a potentially useful FS5W71 rebuilding guide by Derek Garnier that may be of help to me and others:

https://drive.google.com/drive/u/0/folders/0ByCvxnHNk90SYzc4N2E1MWEtMzg0MC00YTE4LTkxZGQtM2RjODA5ODA1YjU1?ddrp=1&hl=en&fbclid=IwAR3SqJySd00J_p1bT2-8yPS_4cSaUGl7jBQ-JcNuYgjk3l0QSo7Rb7gA2D4

Part 1: Volume 11, Issue 2

Part 2: Volume 11, Issue 3

Many of the photographs referenced in the above two articles are missing due to space limitations. A complete set of photographs are located here:

https://datsun510.com/downloads/

look under FS5W71.zip

I'm hopefully picking up a 4-speed on Sunday to part out for rebuilding one of the 5 speeds I have. A local maker space at Case Western University is milling me a right-hand thread, M27x1.0 stake nut. 

Let's see if I can get this working again by Spring thaw.

Edited by Jeff Berk
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I don't think Think[box] at Case Univ. will charge me for the time so it's $22 for the tap (cheap Aliexpress import) and around $66 for a 1-foot 4140 Alloy Steel Hex Bar. So around $88 for the first one : (

Or, if I can get them to make me at least 4, $22 each. Why, do you want to buy one for $22 (assuming I get an extra 3)? If so, I'll PM you after I get them back in a few weeks. I'll likely post a few in the classified at cost.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I’m having problems getting the components on the main output shaft to line up. The photograph shows from right to left

1) adaptor plate

2) three-prong spacer (hidden)

3) reverse  gear with brass balking ring

4) a pair of needle bearings

5) overdrive gear, and

6) a spacer with a slot for a detent.

I’m assuming the detent needs to go into the hemispherical cutout in the main shaft just in front of the needle bearings. However, when I install the OD gear, the cutout is not visible.

Do I need to move the main shaft further to the left?

PXL_20210318_000025839.jpg

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can you elaborate some on the exact issue?  having problems is not enough. is it jamming, not going on at all?

IIRC the 3 prong hub has to mate up correctly.

 

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I think the problem may be that the output shaft needs to be shifted further aft. The detent hole just to the left in the earlier photograph gets covered up by the reverse gear. Should I just try and push against the other end of the shaft (the input shaft end) until the detent hole is visible with the reverse gear installed. The following photograph shows the indent hole being covered by the fifth gear.

 

PXL_20210318_000040687.jpg

PXL_20210318_000040687.jpg

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19 hours ago, Jeff Berk said:

I’m having problems getting the components on the main output shaft to line up. The photograph shows from right to left

1) adaptor plate

2) three-prong spacer (hidden)

3) reverse  gear with brass balking ring

4) a pair of needle bearings

5) overdrive gear, and

6) a spacer with a slot for a detent.

I’m assuming the detent needs to go into the hemispherical cutout in the main shaft just in front of the needle bearings. However, when I install the OD gear, the cutout is not visible.

Do I need to move the main shaft further to the left?

PXL_20210318_000025839.jpg

On the other side of the adapter plate you have 1st and 2nd gear. 1st gearhas one of those locking balls too. Are you sure the ball is located properly in the thrust washer between 1st gear and the adapter plate? Something between 2nd gear and the 5th gear hub is taking up too much space.

The other thing you should check is the shifting insert on the 5th hub. They can be fitted back to front. The shifting inserts are not like the others on the other side of the adapter plate. It will fit both directions, but it will only work one way. Unfortunately the 280Z and 280ZX manuals are as clear as mud. The long section should face towards the rear.

Check the hub is fitted in the right direction. It will fit both ways, but only one aay will work. That can cause your problem.

I think I would pull it back out of the adapter plate and do a quick check on 1st and second gear just to be sure.

I included a shot of the 3rd/4th hub so you can see the difference in shifting inserts. On 3rd/4th they can be reversed without causing any problems

Screenshot_20210318-212244.jpg

Screenshot_20210318-212118.jpg

Screenshot_20210318-212149.jpg

Edited by EuroDat
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EuroDat,

I think that helped. The notch is accessible now. I just need to find a ball bearing that fits. I don't know if it matters but my 5th gear hub pictured in SMT007A did not have that notch around its circumference. 

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6 hours ago, Jeff Berk said:

I don't know if it matters but my 5th gear hub pictured in SMT007A did not have that notch around its circumference. 

It doesn't matter. Those sreenshots are from a latter edition manual. You can see that SMT986 doesn't have the groove, but it is the same manual. That is what I meant by the manuals came be a little confussing sometimes. Especially when you are in doubt and come across different pictures of the same item.

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I think I have it ready to go back into the case but there was one minor discrepancy in the parts that I noticed. The original input shaft bearing had a snap ring but the replacement that came with the kit from Rock Auto did not. Is this a problem? 

I test fit the transmission in the case and it seems to shift, but not smoothly. I'm assuming that's because it's not spinning at all and has no oil other than what I dripped on the gears when I assembled it.

We are having some really nice weather outside right now so I need to get that car back on the street.

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I would say its a problem if you have a left over snap ring. IIRC some kits include bearings that have a groove for a snap ring that is not used, but IF you are talking about bearing that did have a snap ring, and the replacement bearing has not provisions then yes big problem.

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Is there anything I should do to check the function of the transmission before I mount it and fill it up with fluid? I got the replacement bearing (see previous post) and should be able to get it installed tomorrow.

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14 hours ago, Yarb said:

We’re you able to change the small seal in the shifter rod housing? 

If that's the rod connecting the shifter lever to the striking lever, I didn't think it was necessary so no. I think I would have to remove the striking lever to do that and with the close quarters, I wasn't sure how easy that would be.

I'm going to test fit the case today and see if it shifts through the gears before I RTV the adaptor plate to the front and back transmission case. Is there anything else I should do before I reinstall to test the transmission? I've never rebuilt a transmission before so I'm a little concerned.

Jeff

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Sounds like you have the tail shaft casing apart. There is a small seal that the shifting rod goes through . Available through Nissan. This keeps gear oil from pooling into where the shifter mounts. Easy to replace with the housing and shift rod removed. Pull it out with a small pic and insert the new one. I recommend you replace it. Same with the speedo assembly. That you can do any time. 

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21 hours ago, Jeff Berk said:

Is there anything I should do to check the function of the transmission before I mount it and fill it up with fluid? 

You could use a drill and a piece of hose to turn the input shaft and run it through the gears.  With no load you won't need a clutch.  Or you can just stop turning while you change gears.  At least you'll know that things spin in each gear and don't pop out.

It's possible to get everything put together with two gears engaged.  So at least spin the input shaft by hand to be sure you didn't do that.

Did you remove the clutch pivot pin/ball?  If you did you'll want to seal the threads on it.  I had a wrecking yard transmission that had a leaky pivot pin and you couldn't tell until it was installed and you drove it.  

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5 hours ago, Yarb said:

Sounds like you have the tail shaft casing apart. There is a small seal that the shifting rod goes through . Available through Nissan. This keeps gear oil from pooling into where the shifter mounts. Easy to replace with the housing and shift rod removed. Pull it out with a small pic and insert the new one. I recommend you replace it. Same with the speedo assembly. That you can do any time. 

Yarb...

I removed the nut and tried to tap the screw out but it's kind of stuck. I threaded the nut back on a bit and tried to use a small hammer to tap it out to no avail. I'm assuming the striker needs to be removed to pull out the shifting bar. 

Jeff

PXL_20210330_203654273.jpg

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I got that out but it took all day and ended up drilling out the bolt with a 90 degree drill it was horrible work other people have wedged blocks in there and knocked the bolt out but I didn’t have that luck. It’s basically a wedge pin like on the spindle pins


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I wonder if somebody could build a U-shaped device that you could slip over a nut on the threaded end of the shaft.  Then you could turn the nut against the inside of the U-shape to push the lock bolt out.

Heat on the piece at the end would also cause expansion that might be enough to loosen the fit on the shaft.

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Out of the two I resealed one popped right out the other I used the block wedge to support the shaft leaving the nut on. I gave it a douse of Kano Kroil oil and let it sit for an hour and it then popped t with a bar through the slot and it broke broke loose.

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1 hour ago, Zed Head said:

I wonder if somebody could build a U-shaped device that you could slip over a nut on the threaded end of the shaft.  Then you could turn the nut against the inside of the U-shape to push the lock bolt out.

I think someone did something like that... @zKars  maybe?

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