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1977 280z Light Restoration Project


Muzez

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Plan on replacing the backup light switch, they are not too expensive and tend to leak internally.

Spindle pins are like the lottery, you will just have to cross that bridge when you get to it ....    My experience, usually one will put up a fight.  You can always take them to a shop with a big press for removal.

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On 12/4/2019 at 11:35 AM, Zed Head said:

Why?

Note the "Friction Modified" line on the label. Very important.

Honestly, not sure. But it's what I put in my very early transmission based on information from this site. People were recommending it. Limited experience, but it seems to work well.

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dmuzial, actually the leak could come from the rear engine seal or the front trans seal or both? but probably the rear engine seal.

As S30Driver said, could be either, my first spindle pins came out with a few wacks of a rubber mallet. I was thinking " what are these guys all whining about, that wasn't difficult", my second, third and fourth set all had to be heated to glowing red and a 60 ton press to get them to let go.

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19 hours ago, grannyknot said:

dmuzial, actually the leak could come from the rear engine seal or the front trans seal or both? but probably the rear engine seal.

Either way, need to pull the transmission to find out so I will just wait on ordering parts until I know.

Debating dropping some seal sweller in there and seeing if it expands. Might just have shrunk with the <1k miles over the last decade.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Quick update

Picked up the transmission. I have next week off so I will start taking it apart to get a look at the internals, seal, and refinish the exterior before reinstall. Does anyone know if there if there is a risk to the transmission being empty of fluids for a few weeks? 

Also started removing the spindle pins. Used the stack of washer approach which was working really well, but then the threads on the end of the spindle pin started to strip out. Seems to be coming out very slowly with wide punch and a few wacks of the hammer. Any risks to hammering this thing out? And/or is there a better way to do this?

IMG_20191215_202625.jpg

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Transmissions are drained and stored for yrs without any problems, you'll be okay.

Spindle pins, lots written on the subject, if yours are moving you're in luck.  You will need new pins now that the threads are damaged, try and get penetrating fluid in there and as long as the pin keeps moving well just keep hammering.  If it gets stuck hammer it back to where it was moving, more penetrant, use pair of Visegrips to spin it then keep wacking it in the original direction, take your time.

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1 hour ago, grannyknot said:

Transmissions are drained and stored for yrs without any problems, you'll be okay. 

Spindle pins, lots written on the subject, if yours are moving you're in luck.  You will need new pins now that the threads are damaged, try and get penetrating fluid in there and as long as the pin keeps moving well just keep hammering.  If it gets stuck hammer it back to where it was moving, more penetrant, use pair of Visegrips to spin it then keep wacking it in the original direction, take your time.

Thanks as usual @grannyknot, appreciate it!

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Quick update, no photos as I am running to take the dog to an appointment. Took a half-day today and did some wrenching. First control arm is off, as is most of the cross member that connects the rear-most bushing on the control arms.

Found that there was more surface rust on the differential than I would like, so I am going to drop the diff and refinish when I refinish the transmission. Fill and drain plugs are completely seized, so I am going to get some tube to act as a larger breaker. 

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14 minutes ago, Patcon said:

I couldn't get one out recently and used a 1/2" drive impact gun to remove it directly.

Dumb question: is there a risk of stripping or snapping the plug with an impact gun? 

Snapped a cross member bolt last night which is why I ask lol. 

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