Intake manifold interchangeability.

[Zed Head]

Put them on the manifold and check functionality.

I wonder if there are different versions of the ZX TB's.  I spent some time looking at this same type of project and remember finding more reasons it might not work.  My TB came a from a 1981 280ZX 2+2.  I was using a 78 TB to compare.

[Reptoid Overlords]

[mention=31744]Reptoid Overlords[/mention], do you have all the ZX parts including the wiring harness and ECU? Or just the mechanical stuff? I wouldn't assume that the ZX intake manifold "has capacity to move a higher volume of air". In fact, might be a fallacy, but I would like to believe that the years of additional research, testing, and development would result in improvements in the overall design. Other than the lack of EGR, what is it about the 76 intake manifold that piqued your interest?

My car is a 77, and the ZX system I have is from 83. A whole lot happened in the world of technology in those six years. Might be wishful thinking, but I would hope that the 83 system is "better"? Possibly? Maybe?

 

I have all of the equipment, both electrical and mechanical, to direct transfer all items from my completely intact 1980 manifold over to the 1982 P90/F54. Minus the ECU. Budgetary constraints prevent the purchase of standalone EFI. In other words, I'm using my original 1980 ECU.  

I liked the idea of the earlier manifold because it does not have all of the connections and lines and EGR equipment, so cleaning that area up seemed easier and more tidy with that manifold. Aft of the throttle body, the cavity that runs forward to aft along with the car, is wider than the 1980 manifold. Meaning more air must go in there before moving through the 6 individual passageways to the intake ports on the head. Perhaps this means nothing.

 

My concern is that this will cause problems I can't foresee, such as the ECU leaning or richening it out, or something to that effect.

 

I can transfer everything over directly and know it'll work, or clean it up for looks and maybe end up with some poor running condition.

 

Or I can just clean up and delete things from my 80 manifold.

 

 Edit: I don't have the 1982 ECU. Just my original 1980 ECU.

 

 

 

 

 

[Captain Obvious]

Gotcha. Well I don't have any idea if the two manifolds flow the same, but I "try" to believe that the later manifolds are the same or better than the earlier ones. One thing to think about is that by the time you get to the rear part of the manifold, you're only feeding one cylinder, so maybe the fact that the ZX version tapers down at the rear doesn't have much impact.

Or... Maybe it just makes the bean counters happy because it lowers the car's weight ant takes less aluminum to produce. Maybe that's why it's "better".

Not being an expert at all in the field, my gut tells me that you won't notice any change one way or the other. My non-expert advice is to use the one you think looks better. At the performance level of these engines, I doubt there's much performance impact.

So does your 80 ECU use an oxygen sensor? That hadn't been incorporated yet, had it?

[Reptoid Overlords]

Mine was built in November of 1979, a few months before the O2 sensor got Incorporated. I plan on getting some headers from MSA, and welding the O2 bung closed.

I appreciate the replies on this. I have a few months to decide what I'll do. All the big things add up, but the little things like head bolts and hoses and exhaust manifold studs and injector holders and seals all add up quick.

I need a second job to feed the sickness haha.

Sent from my Coolpad 3310A using Tapatalk

[Captain Obvious]

Don't weld anything shut. Just use a threaded plug. You never know if you'll want that O2 bung some time in the future.

Yeah, all the bits and pieces add up. Good luck with the project!

[Patcon]

I would want the O2 even if it was to just feed a gauge. Makes diagnosis much easier

[SteveJ]

2 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Don't weld anything shut. Just use a threaded plug. You never know if you'll want that O2 bung some time in the future.

Yeah, all the bits and pieces add up. Good luck with the project!

To be specific - Use a threaded plug with a good coating of anti-seize. Otherwise, it's likely that you are still welding up the O2 bung.

I'm pretty sure I used anti-seize on the bung for my headers, and I still had a bear of a time removing the plug.