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Joseph@TheZStore

KONI Sports for Classic Z's

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hector_cademartori-02-s.jpgOur Test Pilot Hector Cademartori got back from Daytona and finished his write up about the new Koni Sports (and for you racing fans, a bit about Daytona). Apologies to Hector, he finished it weeks ago, I finally just caught up to him (which is far easier to do while NOT on the racetrack).

The article is fairly in-depth, so instead of posting the whole thing here, I'm just including a link to the Test Pilot Page in our store.

As a reminder, 70-8/74 Koni Sport Struts are in stock now. We hope to hear the arrival date of the 74.5 to 78 Struts from the Netherlands any day. There should be plenty of time to get your Z ready for all the fun you'll have this summer on track or at your favorite mountain pass.

Thanks Hector!

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@KONI Lee just let me know that the 9/74-78 260Z-280Z KONI Sport Struts have arrived in the U.S., are being processed, and will be on the way to California soon. We want to publicly thank KONI for meeting their production estimates. We wish more of our manufacturers were like this!

280ZX owners, we believe the original estimates (240Z before end of March, 280Z before the end of April, 280ZX before the end of May) are still good. We're glad KONI is spending as much time as necessary to make sure they get the 280ZX rear spring seats/shocks correct. They obviously take a bit more work than the simple early cartridges, and getting them right sure seems to be one of KONI's prime directives.

Great job KONI, and thanks Lee !

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Hey late 260Z & 280Z owners, look what showed up in our warehouse this week!

260Z-280Z-arrival.jpg

If you pre-ordered your struts, they are already on the way. If you didn't pre-order, get yours from the first batch so you don't miss out on adding these in time for the summer driving season (the huge box of 240Z & early 260Z struts we posted previously, for instance, is half empty already).

280ZX owners, we'll update you here as soon as we have more info. Thanks for your patience!

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I ordered the new Konis for the 240Z, but thet they won't fit in my front strut housings. They are just a little too long for the gland nut to reach the threads in the housing. Reaching the 1-4mm required gap is not possible.

The part numbers stamped on my front strut housings are 54303-E4151 and 54302-E4151. My car is from 05/71. I'm 99% certain the housings are original to my car (it was 100% stock when I bought it), but they're not on MSAs list of standard strut housings for the 240Z.

Can anyone shed some light on my strut housings? Are they stock? Does anyone have a complete list of strut housing part number for the 240Z.

Also, has anyone successfully modified strut towers to make room for a slightly-too-long strut?

My old KYB Excel G's are aroung 10mm shorter than the new Konis.

The rear struts fit nicely.

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1 hour ago, jonathanrussell said:

Any chance that a previous owner put some sort of spacer in the bottom of your front struts to make the KYB struts fit?

I put the KYBs in 4-5 years ago. When I bought the car it had the open-type struts that (from what I've read) the cars came with originally.

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3 minutes ago, Nils said:

I put the KYBs in 4-5 years ago. When I bought the car it had the open-type struts that (from what I've read) the cars came with originally.

What was the original market of this car? You are in Norway, but I'm guessing it isn't an original Scandinavian/European model car, right?

There *might* be a date code stamped into the strut tubes along with the part numbers. That might be a clue as to whether they were on the car when it was new.

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15 minutes ago, HS30-H said:

What was the original market of this car? You are in Norway, but I'm guessing it isn't an original Scandinavian/European model car, right?

There *might* be a date code stamped into the strut tubes along with the part numbers. That might be a clue as to whether they were on the car when it was new.

Correct, it's a US model, 05/71 HLS30-30267. Norwegian/Scandinavian model 240Zs are extremely scarce.

Strut tubes - thanks for the tip, I'll check that.

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11 hours ago, Nils said:

My old KYB Excel G's are aroung 10mm shorter than the new Konis.

This part seems most relevant.  KYB has been around a long time and probably has it right.  10 mm is about 3/8 inch.

You could have a new gland nut made.  The gap is just to make sure that nut is clamping the insert and hasn't bottomed out on the strut housing.  Make a new gland nut that has longer threads.  If you want to make it work.  But it seems like the Konis might have a problem.  Wonder what other people are seeing.

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Actually gentlemen those numbers are correct. The KYB's have always been about 10mm shorter. The Koni's are actually the proper length. This is based on a cartridge Koni has used for 50 years.

We know of numerous installs already on 240Z fronts that have lined up correctly. Our test pilot Hector has the same strut housing numbers you mentioned on his 240Z and they installed correctly.

Even though it sounds as if you have the proper height struts in the front (based on the comparison to the KYB's), please confirm for us the numbers on the Koni cartridges you just received, as well as that measurement of the strut cartridge body. Please also include if you can read them any numbers on the KYB's, .

Greg has been dismantling 240Z's since the early 80's, and he added that in addition to the often occurrence of somebody putting a spacer at the bottom, that also he has seen numerous times where oil and dirt in the housing have combined over the years to literally make its own 'spacer' of sorts. He said he has had to at times in the past literally dig years of near solid junk out the bottom of the strut housing.

The only other possibility (assuming the numbers and height check out after you send that to us) would be strut housing modification, which sounds unlikely in your case, but just to be certain, if you can measure the height of the strut housing as well (outside), we'll confirm that too.

Sorry you're having an issue, we'll get it figured out!

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12 hours ago, Nils said:

 They are just a little too long for the gland nut to reach the threads in the housing. Reaching the 1-4mm required gap is not possible.

Another question might be "which gland nut is being used?"  Do the Koni's come with a Koni gland nut?  The KYB's come with their own nut.  Maybe KYB gland nuts don't work on Koni's.

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39 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

Another question might be "which gland nut is being used?"  Do the Koni's come with a Koni gland nut?  The KYB's come with their own nut.  Maybe KYB gland nuts don't work on Koni's.

Great point. The Koni's do come with their own Gland Nut. The KYB Gland Nut is taller.

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My rears had between 5 to 6mm gaps. Plenty of engagement though so nothing to worry about.

Front I had 2mm and 4mm.

Car is a 1970 Australian delivered model.

IMG_20190414_220407.jpg

IMG_20190414_222031.jpg

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hey guys. i purchased a set of these for my 72 240z along with the Eibach springs that MSA recommended. i have a good bit of experience working on cars and have owned 5 Z's but never tackled this particular project before. i am slightly confused by the instructions as they are only pictures. i know these are a new product but if anyone has an installation video they could link me to i would appreciate it. at the very least, if someone could tell me what fluid step #4 shows being poured into the strut tube. thanks!

Edited by DangerBoy703

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22 minutes ago, DangerBoy703 said:

hey guys. i purchased a set of these for my 72 240z along with the Eibach springs that MSA recommended. i have a good bit of experience working on cars and have owned 5 Z's but never tackled this particular project before. i am slightly confused by the instructions as they are only pictures. i know these are a new product but if anyone could has an installation video they could link me to i would appreciate it. at the very least, if someone could tell me what fluid step #4 shows being poured into the strut tube. thanks!

https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=240z+front+strut+replacement&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8  Should be something there you can use.

The strut fluid is covered in the factory service manual under "Front Axle & Front Suspension", FA26 through FA40. Also important is the gland nut tensioning, and air bleeding.

The fluid called for in the FSM is Nissan genuine oil (Nisseki Shock Absorber Oil A-1) at the correct amount of 290cc per strut. I think ATF is what most use now. Ford or Chevy type, does not matter. 

I think the fluid is intended to dissipate heat, and prevent corrosion. 

 

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45 minutes ago, DangerBoy703 said:

hey guys. i purchased a set of these for my 72 240z along with the Eibach springs that MSA recommended. i have a good bit of experience working on cars and have owned 5 Z's but never tackled this particular project before. i am slightly confused by the instructions as they are only pictures. i know these are a new product but if anyone could has an installation video they could link me to i would appreciate it. at the very least, if someone could tell me what fluid step #4 shows being poured into the strut tube. thanks!

Any engine oil will do. Only use 50ml. Thrown on some grease on the bottom of the strut as well if you'd like. 

Don't use what the above poster mentioned. That's for original wet legs.

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thank you. the 50ml is in the picture but the snowflake symbol and thermometer made me think it was antifreeze or something.

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56 minutes ago, DangerBoy703 said:

if someone could tell me what fluid step #4 shows being poured into the strut tube. thanks!

 Many replacement strut manufacturers recommend no oil added.  It serves no real purpose and just makes things messy.  Not sure why they have that in their instructions.  Probably better off to smear the body with anti-seize.

Here's a similar Koni-in-a-tube setup with instructions from Koni, no oil added.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=11&v=PXSnNZt3NiI

image.png

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1 minute ago, Zed Head said:

 Many replacement strut manufacturers recommend no oil added.  It serves no real purpose and just makes things messy.  Not sure why they have that in their instructions.  Probably better off to smear the body with anti-seize.

Here's a similar Koni-in-a-tube setup with instructions from Koni, no oil added.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=11&v=PXSnNZt3NiI

image.png

that is the same picture that came with the Koni yellows i just unpacked today. so do i, or do i not, put anything in the tube?

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2 minutes ago, DangerBoy703 said:

that is the same picture that came with the Koni yellows i just unpacked today. so do i, or do i not, put anything in the tube?

@KONI Lee should know.  I'd say it doesn't matter.  Maybe he knows why the instructions show 50 mL of mystery fluid poured from a coffee pot.

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I rescind my advice, and concede with the experts here on the forum. I humbly offer this opinion though.

The ones without oil that I have run across, are rusted inside the tube. The opening at the gland nut, is in no way water tight. 

I would put some type of oil (or grease) in there, enough to fully cover the body of the strut but not spill out (50ml, 230cc, or 229cc or 233cc or 49.8 ml), no way to be exact. Some stays in the coffee pot when you tip it.

I am sure you will find a suitable answer and proceed with the upgrade.            

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10 hours ago, Zed Head said:

It serves no real purpose and just makes things messy. 

ZH, have you never had to pull a shock out of a strut tube that is rust welded in?  The oil may not be needed for the operation of the shock but it certainly is needed for our strut tubes.

@DangerBoy703, take mercy on the next guy who replaces those shocks, put some oil. 

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