gotham22

Rust Advice 78 280z

    Recommended Posts

    2 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

    So far it's just been pictures of rusty and/or missing metal.  What's the rest of the car look like?

    Good point! My best parts I acquired for my 240 came off a car just like that. The guy said it almost broke in half. Had almost perfect door cards though. 

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    I thank everyone for their comments and help. I have thought about this a lot and although I am a novice and my setup is no where near ideal I am going to save this car. It’s un-drivable as it is so what do I have to lose? The worst thing is I find out down the road I need to part it out. Besides it will be a great learning experience. I hope I can continue to count on this community to guide me through the process


    Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

    • Like 2

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    That is NOT a parts car IMO.  If it is to you then I'm going to start going through your garbage :ph34r:.   Everything I've seen so far hasn't been horrible,  daunting maybe,  but entirely repairable.  Go slow, be patient and appreciate the small victories. You'll get there.

    • Like 1

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Got to admit- the car looks nice !

    almost funny, but not, the parts car I was referring too in my case was the same color . Guy told me he bought it and drove it and we got it on a lift he couldn’t believe how bad it was .

    I wasn’t trying to discourage effort , but you have a lot of work ahead of you . Lots of good people and help here 

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    That looks worth the effort.  Just keep in mind that these cars are basically big squarish tin cans.  The "frame" rails are just reinforcements so the can doesn't crumple.

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites
    On 6/13/2018 at 5:50 AM, gotham22 said:

    Also, does the steering cross member need to be replaced?  Or can it be reinforced?

    IMG_1004.JPG

    I didn't see a direct answer to this but I'd just replace it.  It's bolted in.  Somebody should have one for cheap and they're not that heavy.  Just an odd part to have shipped.

    • Like 1

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites
    9 hours ago, gotham22 said:

    Besides it will be a great learning experience. I hope I can continue to count on this community to guide me through the process

    Were here for you,  my comments are just cautionary.  The PO's took excellent care of the top half of the car, very smart looking Z, the joys of salt eh?

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    The strange thing is that all the damage appears on the drivers side only.  I made some wood jack stands this weekend to better support and level the car.  I will post pictures this week.  Thanks for all the support.  They rest of the car looks so good I cant choose the parts car option just yet without giving it a try.

     

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Does anyone know what gauge sheet metal I need for the firewall and floor pan patch? How about the frame rail fixes and strengthening? I saw another thread where someone was using 18gauge. Is that correct? Also, if anyone is looking to sell a steering cross member please let me know. As you can see mine has seen better days.


    Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Got the car supported in multiple places and level. Removed the carpet on the passengers side and found a hole on the floor pan.  Very minor considering what I have been dealing with so far.  Funny how your perspective changes!

     

     

    IMG_1165.JPG

    IMG_1166.JPG

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    That holes going to get a good bit bigger when you get back to good metal, but still better than might be expected all things considered

     

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Its been awhile since I posted.  Haven't been able to work on the car much.  My daughter is 6 months now and she has been taking most of my time.  I removed much of the tar coating on both the drivers side and passenger side floor pans.  I wanted to make sure there was no hidden rust.  Thankfully i did not find any more.  Since I havent been able to work on the car frequently I gave it a quick coat of eastwood frame sealer today to make sure I dont get any flash rust.  Next steps will be to do a compression test on the engine and then pull it so I can replace the frame rail.  Having scary thoughts like "since the engine is out why not strip the car and do a full restoration..."

     

    IMG_1212.jpg

    IMG_1217.jpg

    IMG_1215.jpg

    IMG_1220.jpg

    IMG_1221.jpg

    IMG_1213.jpg

    • Like 1

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    I would encourage you to not get into the "while your at it" syndrome. I did that with my current project and most of my kids have grown up with out a running Z car. It has been a long term fixture in my shop. Your life is only going to get busier for a while if you have small children. All of mine are either in college or getting close. Get your car running and enjoy it. Then your kids can have great memories of riding around with dad in his Z!

    • Like 2

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites
    8 minutes ago, Patcon said:

    I would encourage you to not get into the "while your at it" syndrome. I did that with my current project and most of my kids have grown up with out a running Z car. It has been a long term fixture in my shop. Your life is only going to get busier for a while if you have small children. All of mine are either in college or getting close. Get your car running and enjoy it. Then your kids can have great memories of riding around with dad in his Z!

    I agree with Charles.  You can spend a ton of money and time "while your at it".  Mine aren't award winners but I could drive them from coast to coast without worry.  Probably wear a gas mask to keep from falling asleep though. LOL

     

     

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites
    1 hour ago, Patcon said:

    I would encourage you to not get into the "while your at it" syndrome.

    Thirded. I've been doing my car "backwards" but started in much the same place you did: little kids, first project car, and no real experience with a lot of what I ended up doing. There were a couple times I could see the project get away from me if I didn't reign it in. Getting smaller wins at the beginning makes the bigger projects seem more manageable later on.

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Yup. From someone with a garage queen of 4 years plus.... drive it while you can. Restore it later when you have time.

    • Like 3

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites
    2 hours ago, gotham22 said:

    Wheee!  Been following you thread and love it.  Been super helpful.  

    (Blush) Thank you, but please know that everything in that thread has been gleaned from those that came before me like @HaZmatt  and @Patcon  and @grannyknot and many others on this forum!

    • Like 1

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites
    3 hours ago, gotham22 said:

    It appears that the floor pans are 16 gauge.  Does that sound correct?  Anyone know a good source to but sheet metal?  I found this site - https://www.onlinemetals.com.  I guess it is as good as any.

     

    Where did you get that the floors are 16 gauge? Did you measure, or is that from googling? Either way, I would expect them to be 20 gauge without looking.

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    You sure it didn't have a burr on it or something? My floor conveniently has a huge hole in it, and so I was able to measure my own (76 280Z) to compare, and in the spot I measured it, it came out to about 0.81-0.84mm (could have been an area that was stretched), which would actually be 21 gauge, and not 20, but nevertheless, 20 is what you should go with. 16 gauge is 1.5mm, and it's going to be a pain to work with, on top of being needlessly heavy. As a rule, you can assume that most of the sheet metal on the car is 20 gauge.

    Here's a chart that converts gauge to thickness in mm and inches:

    http://www.custompartnet.com/sheet-metal-gauge

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Create an account or sign in to comment

    You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

    Create an account

    Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

    Register a new account

    Sign in

    Already have an account? Sign in here.

    Sign In Now