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Rust Advice 78 280z


gotham22

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All:

Well, if anecdotal evidence is going to supersede responsible prudence, I will tell my story.

My Z's mechanicals were in very good condition, outside and in. But the soft parts were old after 200K. mi., and refreshing the engine included full hose changes. Since they were on the bench, I naturally checked them and found that their volumes and patterns varied some, making a simple cleaning a no brainer. The operation was brief (in relative terms) and successful.

Sidebar Note: Yes, I should have mentioned the need to "backflush" the internal wire screen (which, at the time and in retrospect, seemed a better idea than trying to remove/replace same). It was the last step of the clean cycle (which pointedly excluded H2O, of course), which had removed nearly all the trapped matter. This final step was accomplished by powering the valve open and applying low power compressed air back up the orifice. This was followed with a final "frontflush" with cleaner.

I believe you stated that you wanted this to be the last time you wanted to do a major service on your engine, which has had a full life already... in someone else's hands... with who knows what kind of maintenance (including filters, condition of the tank, etc.). In short, its a crapshoot situation.

I believe you owe it to yourself to be as thorough as you can within the given parameters.

Or not. Your dice.

 

 

 

Edited by ensys
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34 minutes ago, ensys said:

All:

Well, if anecdotal evidence is going to supersede responsible prudence, I will tell my story.

Words-wise, you're saying that we've all been irresponsible,and imprudent, with our injector stories.  Not sure that's what you intended.

Nonetheless,  the old rusty injectors could very well be fine.  It's the guts that matter.

 

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Mr.Head:

Word-wise, what I intended was:

"responsible", as in "to one's self"

"prudence", as in "taking the time to do it right the first time is always cheaper than making the time to do it over"

And you're right: "could" is the guts of that matter.

To each his own of course, but I tend to believe that gambling with the results of one's work, is generally a lazy sucker's bet.

 

 

 

 

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4 minutes ago, ensys said:

I tend to believe that gambling with the results of one's work, is generally a lazy sucker's bet.

Man, I don't know what this means, as a whole or in parts.  Only "lazy suckers do their own work, and doing so is a gamble"?  

Are you recommending that he has somebody else do the work? Or that he buy new parts?  Or that he does the work himself?  You told an anecdote about doing the work yourself, yourself.  Were you saying that you made a mistake in trusting yourself, or that you only trust your own work?

Not kidding.  I like to leave a little puzzle behind myself sometimes, but I can't tell what your message is.

My message was - leave the insides of the injectors alone they've been fine all this time.

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I think the point he is trying to make is: ...not trusting parts that look suspect. If you're going to touch it, go ahead and make sure it's good.

Of course the Datsun way for many people has been run until it breaks, then patch it. These have been cheap cars for many years. That has changed greatly recently.

I tend to come down more on the side "if it ain't broke don't break it" I have limited funds to throw at projects. The exception being if I want it pretty, then by all means tear it apart and plate everything! LOL

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love it - "tear it apart and plate everything"

My ultimate goal is to make this a reliable weekend car.  The golf clubs just fit in the back!  I have been asking all these questions, and you all have been very supportive, because I want to do it right.  So I am taking my time and going to do each and everything correctly.  Last night I set up the welder and table, I see a bunch of practice happening on thanksgiving!

 

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Mr.Patcon:

Thanks for the attempt to translate, but in fact (and as illustrated in my story), "looks" are not the primary criteria at all, tho they do have a place in the equation.

It is the experience of many people that with old cars, a long and often uncertain past should be enough to make one think twice all by itself, but add the element of a disreputable appearance, and refurbishment becomes a no-brainer. Especially if other tasks provide the easy opportunity to do the job, as in the case of Mr.Gothem22's in-hand injectors. This paradigm is especially true with cheap old cars, which only remain feasible when personal labor can stand in for money. See "taking the time to do it right the first time is always cheaper than making the time to do it over", above.

Of course, I will concede that if one's past operations make doing more damage than good the likely outcome, I can understand their trepidation at doing what should be done. My personal issue with the caveat of "a man should know his limitations", is its application to one's level of skill implies "I can't learn more", which leads to "I give up", a form of defeatism that is too easily communicable. This is what leads to infectious despair and the sale of "projects" half done.

I happen to believe that the point of this kind of forum is to provide a learning experience thru shared knowledge and enthusiasm.

Maybe I'm wrong, but I don't think so.

 

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Hi all, now that the holidays are coming I was hoping to get some parts for the car.  Can anyone recommend the best 240z bumpers to buy?  I see there are a few z stores that have them but I don't know the difference between them.  I know changing the 280 bumpers is not keep with the originality of the car but I really love the look of the 240 bumpers.

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I bought mine from futofabmcom on a black friday or cyber monday?? sale.  That was the best deal for me as I live on the east side and shipping was cheaper than the left coast guys at MSA.

The front bumper is an easy swap, the rear is a PITA according to what I've been told read on here.  Eurodat is the man you need to google.  Try "240 bumpers 280 conversion eurodat classiczcars.com"

Good luck.

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