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Elliott000

Where to go with this rusthole

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I had seen those bit was hoping to avoid the cost, ill bash some metal tommorow and see what I can come up with otherwise it's spend cash time

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Considering the complex curve and shape, this inner fender piece is better "bought" than "built" IMHO

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Just a question on panel fitment guys since I'm new at this. I figure, that when I lay the new panel on to test fit I want it all to generally be touching if that makes sense. On the tabco quarter, I need to adjust the curve in the rear section because it stands about an inch off at the bottom vs touching up top. I can push it in but it makes the top want to pull away. Am I right that I'll want to work that bend so it basically fits flush all around?

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It’s hammer and dolly time...!

Actually an English wheel would be better to roll the curve some more, but a hammer and dolly or anvil will work.

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I am not sure I would buy inner wheel wells if I was going to flair the car. I would want the flairs in hand and I might just extend the metal on out to the quarter. That way I can run big rubber without worrying about rubbing the wheel arch. I would cut the wheel arch up to clear the rubber but still be hidden by the wheel arch.

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I wouldn't bother with the inner wheel arches. If you're going to flare your car, you can get by with using what's left on your car, and filling the gaps with sheet metal, most likely.

There's a great thread on HybridZ about mounting the ZG flares, but unfortunately it looks like the pics, at least on the first page, are all dead. Looks like there's a few left on the second page that might be useful, and maybe there's some more later in the thread. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/47525-how-to-mount-them-there-zg-flares

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Hey guys, im struggling with the decision to flange the panel or but weld it. I read so many opinions on each is messing with my head haha. If its flanged and tacked allover is it less likely to warp than if I were to butt weld it? As far as welding goes I'm comfortable for either or but I have had thoughts on what's my best method for cut and fit and then also if I butt weld and things start to contact eachother and want to pop if you know what I mean. Like th cut ends expand into the "gap" and then bow eachother out or slide past

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If it is a very visible area then a butt would be prettier but it does come with a bit more risk and it will take longer with more care to make it look like it was never repaired. I find butt welding new sheet metal to old to be tricky some times as the old metal wants blow holes, in that case I start the weld on the new side and drag the bead to the old side, that helps prevent it.  Laps welds I love, fast, easy, strong and if you are recreating a stock flange you can drill holes in the flange and plug weld for a good spot weld lookalike.

You can also start with a lap joint but just tack welded then run a thin cutoff wheel down the center of the lap, remove the off cuts and have a very consistent distance between the panels and that makes butt welding much easier.

WE WANT PICS LOL

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I'll post pics up. I'll probably get the new one started on Tuesday. Got appointments with my kid tomorrow on my day off. It's a real struggle now, do I go fishing, work on car go 4x4ing or play a new Xbox game that just came out hahahah

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Fitted the patch and put the door in temporary to check. Everything lines up pretty good. Im thinkin tomorrow is cut n tack day! Nervous but what the Hell eh haha. There is a slight not dent but wave, on on spot ot the original. Right where the previous flares were riveted in in one spot. I'll see how she goes and deal with it once things are stitched together. Worst case... Bondo. I post a b4 and after tomorrow. The crease in the dog leg is sharp wherr as the rocker is a gentler bend. I'll have to dress that a bit with a hammer try and shrink it. The factory side lower door edge is actually more similar to the sharper finish of the quarter patch. I'll probably settle some where in between 20181029_191401.jpeg20181029_191429.jpeg

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Just get to work and things happen. Fit in there real good. Im very happy. The door is just sitting in there so alignment is half arse but I had to check for lines and continuity. IMG_20181030_125959_206.jpegIMG_20181030_125959_203.jpegIMG_20181030_125959_204.jpeg20181030_125821.jpeg

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You really should have a stringer attaching both of your rotisserie engine stands together,  even a 2x4 clamped on to both sides would do the trick.   It  puts a lot of strain on your mounting bolts,  your work looks great.  How do you like the Tabco panels?

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grannyknot! i have one ha ha i just forget to attach it. ill do that tonight, good eye. Considering they are my first patch panels i cant truly comment but in terms of this job the seem decent. needed some flexing so it laid nice against the original. also the creases arent as sharp as factory and the body line under the gas tank filler is hardly there. I creased it a bit but couldnt go much past the back third. ill try and recreate it a bit on the door side with filler i guess

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Any advice on shaving the bumper reliefs? Pack it full of bondo like I've seen online ha, i was thinkin just cut and fill with sheet metal not worrying about body curve as the skim coat can be formed over it and shaped. Would probably end up being like 3/16 thick or so at worst spot near patch panel20181030_185001.jpeg

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My first thought was cut and fill, but then I thought about it. Do you really have to cut it out first. Maybe you could just strip the area of paint and filler. Treat the rust, then weld a panel in flush with the quarter. If it ever became necessary to reverse the procedure, most of the metal would still be in place. Plus the edges of the relief will help prevent warping.

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I noticed on the driverside that's been striped to bare metal for a while it's getting a bit of rust coloring happening. Since I still have work to do on that side should I just clean it up, then spray bomb on some primer. Just so it's covered? Cars in my garage, it's not heated and does get cold so it's will have moist air but not actually see any condensation or anything.

 

Or the other option is strip it to bare metal, the whole body and spray the epoxy primer then just clean away what i need to in areas ill do work.

 

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I have used "After blast" from Eastwood on clean metal. It has acid in it so it converts the rust and seems to keep it away unless it gets wet with condensation. Ospho would work too

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You could also just take an old cloth, drip any kind of oil on it and wipe the bare metal with it, it will keep the rust off for months and is easily cleaned of with thinners or soap and water.

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I like the oil idea. Then I don't have to sand the metal again and again. It doesn't soak in to it eh. A good cleaning and she would be ready for paint. For some reason even washing bare metal and drying it off makes me fear rust haha.

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4 hours ago, Elliott000 said:

It doesn't soak in to it eh.

After you clean the oil off you're going to scuff up the metal with sand paper and clean thoroughly again with wax & grease remover just before spraying primmer.

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I have never tried oiling bare metal. It makes me nervous. I try to avoid touching bare metal or body work with my hands to prevent adding oils to the surface. I just have concerns about being able to get all the oil back off the panels.

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