Perfect, thanks Ernest

@Captain Obvious I found the screws for the front turn signals today in the shop

I thought I posted this up already but I didn't see them over the last few pages...

I had to trim the ears on the R200 diff for a little more clearance on the new SS exhaust

This is an untrimmed side

Trimmed

I made a bracket to connect to the mid span support on the top of the new exhaust. It will attached under the diff arrestor strap nut

Template

Under the car

Finished

Edited yesterday at 12:09 AM1 day by Patcon

I made it back into the shop again, finally. I got a batch of clear zinc back from the platers and went through and reworked some door latches. I used the kits that Steve Nixon sells for the rubber bits inside the latch. I also bought a couple of spring assortments because one of the latches was missing the return spring

Interestingly I have two different styles of latch. I have the style with the coiled return spring and then I have one latch that has the two flat springs in it. The one with two flat springs has a small notch on either side of the latch arm slot. Steve's rubber parts are designed for this style of lock. On the other locks I had to take a little rubber out of the semi circular pieces to make them fit properly and I glued them in place with some black super glue

There are also three squarish rubber pieces that fit over the ends of the arms to cushion them

The hardest ones to get on are the one that go on the door striker. There is very little little clearance to get the one side in

Here are my two styles side by side. Maybe someone else can add some info on when these parts changed? Even the flat spring on the latch pawl is a different design between the two...

I also put the dovetail on the edges of the doors and the spring loaded door poppers into the door jambs. Minimal progress but something. Now that I have the latches back, I can work on assembling the rest of the doors and glass

2 hours ago, Patcon said:

I found the screws for the front turn signals today in the shop

Sigh. Of course you did. Right after I did this:

Yes... Before you ask. Yes, I made the little plastic washers.

Socket heads might be nice there.

One day I might have room for a lathe... and a bridgeport...and... 😁

Yeah i know thát feeling.. it was only yesterday that i took a look at a combination of a drill/lathe and millingmachine.. but not really to buy one because it's all Chinese junk and i don't have really room for it/that! (And a bridgeport is a machine that needs a stable floor!)

8 hours ago, Patcon said:

Socket heads might be nice there.

Yeah, I went socket head because I was thinking that getting in there with a hex driver would be easier than a phillips screw driver. And now that I've done it, I think I made the right call. T-handle allen driver for the win.

Oh, and they're stainless. Seemed like the right material for the application.

When installing the door latches, make sure you use the correct length flathead. The lowest screw that attaches the latch is shorter than the others. If you put in the longer one in that position, the latch will hang up. Again, ask me how I know 🤣😝

Hey Charles,

I found the same difference in the return spring on one of a batch of door locks I picked up a few years ago. The unique one had a date code of 1969. The later style coil spring was not yet installed on the one on the left.

@jfa.series1 can you tefresh me on deciphering the date codes?

52 minutes ago, Patcon said:

@jfa.series1 can you tefresh me on deciphering the date codes?

The lock core has its own date code. Below on the left is year 0 (1970), month 3. On the right is year 9 (1969), month 7.

The lock assembly also has its date code. This one is Left, year 0 (1970), month 4, day 16 (I think). This pic is the assembly for the 0-3 lock core above.

Just for grins, here is the lock assembly for the 9-7 core above, note the difference in the slot as you noted on one of yours.

Edited 14 hours ago14 hr by jfa.series1