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Careless

240Z Resto - 01/1970 Car

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What you need are the micro fiber cloths, they leave no lint and hold a lot of whatever liquid you are using.

I cut them up into 1.5"x1.5" patches for doing touch of paint when I don't want to mask and spray.

Old T-shirts work well too but will leave fibers in the paint sometimes.

 

I need to try a white one because I tried a blue one and... it kinda put blue tint on the test piece. LOL

 

 

btw, send me a price for that manifold, i'll come look at it!

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does anyone have the order of the small washers/items that go in the following location (purple arrow) on the distributor vacuum advance?

J4gl5VG.png

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I just looked at mine, and it has only one washer between the spring and the clevis.

I just noticed that the picture you posted has dual points, my setup is original with single points. I have no idea if this makes a difference.

Edited by CanTechZ

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I'll have to take this one apart again and lay it out , and if you can compare that would be awesome. it is also a single points. I snagged this photo from another site...

 

I know there is more than one washer. unless there is a washer that  goes under the spring on the diaphragm side. But I have a really thin washer, a locking washer that is shaped like clasping end of the clevis, and regular washer, as well as the tube guide that sits in the spring.

Edited by Careless

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I tried out a black oxide solution, and it seems to work amazing. The little fuel filter bracket/holder that is made of spring steel blackened up back to the original finish, and It looks great with a little bit of penetrating oil rubbed into it.

 

I found that the sharkhide dries to a slightly darker haze than the base metal and then it shines right up with some penetrating oil, so that's the route I will take from here on out for items that I'll be refinishing without painting.

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small update for now.

 

I had to take a tiny wire brush (sprout shape) that comes in a dremel kit, and i wire wheeled the entire head like i was drawing on it with a fine tipped marker to get all the aluminum coloured paint off it. It yellows over time and catches all kind of dust and never looks good after the car is driven a couple of times. you can never clean it properly. So i decided to essentially wire wheel the entire head with the motor upside down so that nothing went in the valve train or spark plug pockets, and then brake cleaned the motor while it was upside down so all the shmoo fell to the ground on a garbage bag.

 

 A lot of scrubbing with a tooth brush, half a quart/litre of wax & grease remover, and one can of brake kleen later, and it's looking pretty good. just gotta do the back of the head and two or three small areas, then i'll put the motor back together and think about doing the "datsun overspray" in certain areas. 

Part of me wants to, but part of me wants to make it cleaner than factory.

 

 

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The parts are coated with sharkhide. It barely changes the look of how it is without it. Just slightly shinier. The valve cover was burnished and was pretty close to the 13,000 mi 1973 240z that was in the same building, but with 40 years of oxidation, so I'd say this is as close as it's gonna get with a uniform finish. The valve cover is NOT polished. It's just a very high sheen burnish. It's the same "surface" as the head as shown in a close up in the second photo, but with added sheen from multiple burnishing passes. A full micropolish is way more mirror like. This is like... a dull aluminum that someone has sprayed a high gloss finish on- but it's actually not coated with a gloss of any kind.

 

 

The pan rail has that brown aviation gasket seal stuff. Is that the preferred sealant to use in conjunction with cork gaskets, or is a slight brush on of RTV a good idea?

Edited by Careless

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So it seems as though the DUAL POINTS distributors like the one I found a picture of and posted (with the purple arrow) use many more washers to preload the diaphragm. At first I thought this was a modification, but then I saw that a NOS diaphragm on ebay has 3 washers stacked behind the clevis.

 

 

Then I looked at some photos of "before disassembly" and found there to be less on the single points diaphragm. This is a photo I took of the distributor I am rebuilding. I had it right the way I assembled it, but I rubbed some oil on the actuator and it marred the zinc finish a little, so I will be having that rezinced with the upcoming batch of other goodies. Should be easy with the muriatic bath they usually use for recoats.

 

K06yzl6.png

 

The order seems to be

  1. Diaphragm Body
  2. Foam Isolator (on mounting face)
  3. Spring
  4. Thin Washer (most likely to prevent spring end wear.
  5. Thick Washer 1
  6. Thick Washer 2 (same size as 1, although slightly different colour. not sure if different metal)
  7. Clevis Lock clip
  8. Clevis arm

 

 

Here's the dual points diaphragm for reference.

 

jUsbrsw.png

 

you can very faintly see the edge of the thin spring wear washer if you zoom/squint/concentrate/holdyourbreathe.

Edited by Careless

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Can anyone identify the proper clutch master cylinder?

 

nXwHwBW.png

 

I see the one 2nd to the left seems to have been the only used one. I went ahead and tumbled it to brighten it up, and I can swap the cups over as well as a new clamp. The unit seems to be in good condition, so I cleaned the bore gently and sized up a new o-ring at the local seal supplier.

 

I will also snag a pushrod from another cylinder and use that. 

 

There are various differences between all of these units.

 

I found this thread, but not sure what the conclusion on the early units is :

 

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50000-early-series-i-240z-clutch-master-cylinder-touching-windshield-washer-bottle/

Edited by Careless

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I wanted to show a trick for plating parts that have blind holes. they cause an issue with plating because they produce what is called "bleed out". it's when wet zinc mixed with muriatic acid pours out of the part after it has been plated and dried because the solution has nowhere to go during the plating process.

 

It causes poor plating, white haze, corrosion, and can even ruin other parts that come in contact with the solution well after they have been cleaned. it essentially does what muriatic acid does to plated parts because that is partly what it is.

 

I seal up the holes with RTV. RTV is generally safe for plating in zinc.

 

JSio21s.png

 

 

TADA! i sealed up the shaft orifice and the breather holes on the underside of the diaphragm. I then removed them with a dental pick.

 

This unit was paint stripped and tumbled. I immediately noticed the copper/orange colour that it had come back in when the carbs were given back to me by ZTherapy. It's understandable that they do not want to futz around with messing these parts up- as I'm sure there aren't too many of the factory ones still around. Well... here's how I did it.

 

More pics for reference:

 

TNJzY92.png

 

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Edited by Careless

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Here is what the timing cover looks like after it was sharkhide coated, along with the water pump, and oil pump.

 

I had rebuilt the internals of the oil pump as well.

 

These parts are not polished. They just have a nice impervious shine to them. slightly more dull than clearcoat. If you were to take your timing cover off and look at the back of it which gets covered in clean engine oil all the time, that's basically what these look like in person. really shiny, almost as cast... but not polished.

 

6IKsIVd.png

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I started to assemble the vehicle today.

 

I decided first thing is first... brake lines and brackets.

 

some of the bushings provided were just repainted old dry/cracked bushings. infact, aside from being dirty, the bushing that were taken off the car were in way better condition. I just tumbled them and they came out like brand new rubber. seriously the best investment into this project at this point- the tumbler is easily worth 3 or 4 times its price for anyone who is thinking of doing a lot of this stuff. Get the largest one you can!

 

 

AidFKoQ.png

 

the isolator on the one large vapor line on the right seems to have the hole in the firewall missing. I can feel the hole there, so the bolt must have broken off. I am going to see if I should drill it from the other side with a slightly undersized bit, and then tap it. I would like to put that bracket there, provided I don't mess up the firewall paint.

 

I've already had to drill out two of those tiny M4 screws because they were just painted over as well. Luckily one came out without much fuss. The other was a bit harder- but now is the time to do it!

 

And I seriously think putting brake lines into old rubber bushings with no help is one of the hardest things I've ever done on a car. I've taken apart complex transmissions and engines and have some race-car building experience and have fabricated competition roll cages and made some interesting things for cars... This was just a chore. The transmission mount and front differential mount really help at keeping the lines up in the air for you when you're trying to figure it all out.

 

Some of the fittings were a little marred in the process of removing the caps I put on there to seal them from plating, but that's to be expected. The threads see some build up and rust from the acid. They should be ok.

 

More pics (and more to come when I get my real camera there).

 

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Edited by Careless
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Great work and attention to detail.  I love your pictures, they highlight not only the actual labor but how good the finished product can be if your pay attention to everything and get it right. Keep up the good work!!!  I look forward to seeing more updates.

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The OE heatshield that goes under the carbs seems to be painted with COLD GALVANIZING paint, (7007), but to be honest, it's too soft for my liking. It scratches to a shiny finish too easily.

 

I was thinking of using high heat manifold primer. Has anyone had good success with that stuff? Colour similarity? 

 

I have to replace the one that is on the Ztherapy carbs with the one I took off the car because it must have had the throttle return springs bashed during shipping, and one of the spring tabs at the base of the heat shield is breaking off. I'd rather fix it now, and then tig weld the one I take off and sell it later.

 

Any thoughts?

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Can anyone identify the proper clutch master cylinder?

 

nXwHwBW.png

 

 

 

anyone have any insight to this?

can't find the original one that was in the photos provided :-(

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That NABCO M/C second from the left looks like the one that came on my 03/70 240Z but it had this cap on it. Now someone could have changed it over the years, I don't know, It certainly looked like it had been there for a very long time. I kept the cap, it's yours if you want it.

Chris

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Interesting. That is the only one that looks used, and it is also the one that I cleaned up in the tumbler and replaced the o-rings on, ready to go back together. I'll just swap over the reservoir and i'll come by for the cap sometime!

thanks again, Chris.

 

 

 

Update to thread:

I went to the shop today to sort out some stuff that needs to be cleaned elsewhere, as I don't have a sandblaster big enough. Wondering what I should do with the quarter glass and trim... going to be putting the motor together as much as possible tomorrow, and will be posting pictures of the horn I am refreshing.

 

Will post more pics soon!

Edited by Careless

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So after waiting for some items to be shipped, and finally getting the right timing cover gaskets (the package i had said L24, but it was clearly for something else... maybe L28) I managed to get that all together with the fresh hardware. new water pump. fresh oil pump. fresh oil pan and gasket.

 

coated the head to prevent corrosion. added the new air gallery tube to the manifold that I painted and heat cured. The hole left from the tube nut that I had to extract seemed to tighten up nice. The pitot tube on the under side of the tube nut seems tight and the nut can't be screwed on anymore. So on monday I put the carbs and manifold on.

 

Managed to get the rear suspension in with the diff and control arms and axles. Now that the car is being assembled, I find that the only thing I leave with when I'm done working on it for the day is anti-seize on my hands and fingers. such a nice feeling! no cleanup!

 

New question:

Engine slingers colours... I plated the rear one yellow, and managed to get a 1971 front engine slinger from a parts car. it seems to be clear/silver zinc. But most of the NOS rear ones are yellow.

 

Were the front ones clear/silver and the rear ones yellow? or were they both yellow for 1970 and clear/silver for 1971? Any consensus on that?

 

I have to refinish the front one anyways, so... i can change the colour of the rear one if it's not right at this point.

 

Got some more items in the tumbler whirring away right meow. Going for another plating run soon!

Edited by Careless

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Won't be long now, the engine is almost complete! I know the oil filter is the wrong type. I have 4 of the japanese OE ones, and I need to replace the plug on the end of the alternator. The wires are actually uninsulated near where they go in, so i might have to take it back apart. bummer!!!

 

just a couple small things left to do

 

going to sharkhide the carbs tomorrow to make sure they're ready for the new Type No. 12 studs at the top of the head. some small bits still need plating, but they' be done soon. I don't want to install the exhaust manifold yet, because that would make the Air Gallery easy to scratch- it's in the way of where I have to put the studs, so I'll do that first, then install the exhaust manifold and carbs in one go. I'm shooting for Monday/Tuesday.

 

 

OUKDdho.jpg

 

vsYGCR6.jpg

 

I wire wheel'd every inch milimeter of the cylinder head with a tiny stainless brush to take the paint that was previously put on so that I can get it to look natural, and I then coated it with sharkhide.

I don't think I'll be doing the overspray thing that the OE assembly showed. I know it's original style... but I think it would be a shame to do that since I've taken more care than Datsun did at the time to make sure everything is as good as I can do it without going extremely nuts.

 

As far as I know, all the bolts are in the right place and the right size. The engine mount bolts are little odd though. I think I'm missing one of the same size, so I'll have to use a different one and hope that wherever it goes I can use a different one there too until I reach a threaded hole that I have an extra bolt for. hehe  LOL

 

Taking extra care with every one of the RTV'd surfaces. Rather than put a bead on the surface and tighten it down with a gasket, I am painting both sides of the gasket with an extremely thin/smooth RTV coating that barely gets pushed out of the ends. It's very hard to find an area with more RTV than shown here on the valve cover cork gasket.

 

I had another white felt looking gasket that was in the box too for the valve cover, but I used the cork one instead. Am I supposed to use both or something?

 

hAaVCD9.jpg

Edited by Careless

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Looking for photos with measurements for where the Intake Filter plenum box has the stickers situated. Anyone have photos of OE placement?

 

I have repro stickers and would like to put them on soon.

 

Once the thermostat is actually in there (just set it up for photo) and the carbs are on, I'm going to have the Smog Pump put back in, and the front bolt should be torqued tomorrow. Hoping to put the engine slingers on there too so I can put it in the car soon. I think I can get to every other part with the engine inside the car.

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