Question about the larger rear interior panels for the sides: is there a difference between the early and late 240z panels other than the holes for the vents? I’m finding that the mounting tabs are much further into the fender cavity than the holes in the panels. I can’t get them to line up unless I really push on the panel, were the mounting tabs different before 1973, or is my car so late I. The year (August) that I might need 260z panels. I don’t know how different they were in 74, but the years listed for the repo panels cut off the 240z panels at 1973, so at least a bit different.

What panels are you using?

5 hours ago, Patcon said:

What panels are you using?

The ones that came with the car. They have the vent holes at the C-pillar, although there is no hole in the sheet metal under that and I will just see orange paint through them. I know the reproduction ones don't have those holes, but I don't know what year those are supposed to go with.

Also, there is a panel above the top front corner of the vapor tank that is interfering with the fit. It's pushing the panel away from the pillar and looks like it will prevent the quarter window panel from going on correctly. I'm not sure if the plastic panels without the holes have a relief for that piece of metal or not. Doesn't look like it from the pictures online.

I am using the reproduction panels and the ones I have are significantly thicker than factory panels. I having to trim on them to get them installed. I need to post this in my build thread

I got the one over the vapor canister on but just barely. I’ll post some pictures once I finish. It’s fine, not great.

Here are the torque specs for the nut that attaches the Koni damper to the insulator, from the instructions that were in the box:

M12x1.25 Nut + spring washer (included) = 50 Nm (37 ft lbs)

Two M12x1.25 nuts = 50 Nm (37 ft lbs)

M12x1.25 Nylon Lock nut = 80 Nm (59 ft lbs)

No specks for compression lock nuts.

Also, the gland nut torque is 120 Nm (89 ft lbs).

Need some help with my brakes.

I have the Toyota brakes in the front and the maxima disc conversion in the back that Z Car Depot used to offer. I have a 15/16 Nabco ZX master cylinder, new stainless brake lines, the Wilwood manual proportioning valve, and stainless braided hoses. The master cylinder was freshly rebuilt before I installed it. The pads are brand new “performance” pads (can’t remember the brand).

The booster is a aftermarket one and was new when I bought it. I can’t remember the size but it’s the biggest one that bolts in without changing the firewall. The hose has a working check valve and is on the #6 intake runner.

I’ve bled the system five times, which I expected because it was completely empty and I filled it from the reservoirs, not the calipers. Every time I bled it I got some air, but it eventually stopped and the pedal felt hard. The booster has a noticeable effect and I’ve tried bleeding it both running and not.

I have two problems:

First, I can’t get the system completely empty of air. Every time I think I’m good, I come back the next morning and the pedal is soft (I usually do this at night so I don’t drive immediately after I finish). There are no leaks. I’ve been over the entire under side of the car and it’s completely dry, plus no drops on the ground and the reservoir levels are constant. I’ve bled two other cars in this time and it was dead simple and only took one pass for each.

The second problem is that if I pump the brakes to get pedal pressure up, the brakes are still ineffective. Stoping is a suggestion that it gets around to. I feel the calipers squeezing, but they don’t bite like I expected.

What do we think is happening? I’m hoping that fixing problem 1 will solve problem 2.

Incidentally, the hand brake works fine, so I don’t think it’s the rear discs. I have the valve completely open so they should be getting the max pressure possible.

Edited May 12May 12 by Matthew Abate

Have you tried the bleeders with check valve in them?

33 minutes ago, Yarb said:

Have you tried the bleeders with check valve in them?

No. I am interested in them but I’m trying to get it done without buying anything else.

Edited May 12May 12 by Matthew Abate

One thought would be that you might have the front calipers on the wrong sides, easy to do and puts the bleeder on the bottom of the calipers.

That orientation would cause both issues you mentioned. Bleeders need to be up.

No disrespect but some thing plausible.

I am not sure if you can reverse the rears but same issue with the bleeders up.

Hopefully that’s the problem it would be an easy fix!

Bleeders are up on both sets.

Edited May 12May 12 by Matthew Abate