260z won't start!

[SteveJ]

I'm betting he won't find points. The 260Z has a Transistor Ignition Unit.

[Zed Head]

Crap, I knew something was bothering me when I posted that.  I usually point that out myself.  The picture I posted is from the wrong FSM.  Got 73 stuck in my head, not 74.

 

Forget about points Clomolina.  You can still check air gap though.  Engine Tuneup chapter.

 

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/

[Mark Maras]

 As far as the ignition switch goes, I'd remove it & take it to a locksmith. They have the knowledge & parts to repair it.

 Clutch-First check the clutch master cylinder on the firewall, (outboard of the brake master cylinder) for fluid. If there is none you will need to bleed the clutch hydraulic system of air. Any service manual has the procedure. If the reservoir is empty, before proceeding with the bleeding, on the end of the master & slave cyl. there is a rubber seal over the end of each cylinder. The slave cyl. is on the left side of the bell housing. Pull both of them back & look for moisture(brake fluid) under the seals & check them periodically while you're bleeding. It is the most common point of leakage. Report back please.

[SteveJ]

Crap, I knew something was bothering me when I posted that.  I usually point that out myself.  The picture I posted is from the wrong FSM.  Got 73 stuck in my head, not 74.

 

Forget about points Clomolina.  You can still check air gap though.  Engine Tuneup chapter.

 

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/

It was just your turn to make a mistake. However, it's like the possession arrow in College Basketball. The next mistake is mine.

[S30Driver]

Regarding the key stuck in the ignition lock assembly, the actual switch is a separate part held onto the back of the lock assembly by two small phillips screws.

You can remove the screws, freeing the switch, and leaving the harness connected, you can use a slot screwdriver to operate the switch thru all its positions.  You can later follow Mark's excellent suggestion and get the lock tumblers replaced at a competent lock smith (look for an old guy who knows what he is doing).  The tumblers wear and the key jams in the lock which is very common.

 

At least you will able to operate the switch and turn the car off in the meantime.

[FastWoman]

If the ignition wire between your coil and distributor cap is messed up, then that's a very likely cause for your loss of spark.

 

If I were you, I would replace the rotor, distributor cap, and wires.  You've already replaced the plugs, which is good.  These parts can get rather tired, and it doesn't really cost a lot of money to replace them.  It can potentially make a huge difference in how well the engine runs, even if it's not your main problem.

 

If you still have no spark after replacing these items, then I would verify the wiring of the ignition system.  Above all, make sure the transistor ignition unit and coil have power.  If your ignition circuit has power and is correctly wired, but you still have no spark, check/replace the coil and/or transistor ignition module.

 

+1 regarding your ignition lock.  Your locks are probably all worn out.  You can buy replica door locks and take those, plus your ignition lock, to a lock smith, who can rework the ignition lock and rekey everything to the hatch key.  It's not very expensive, and it's SO GOOD to have working locks that can't be turned with house keys, screwdrivers, and popsicle sticks.

[FastWoman]

Sarah, I moved the gear reduction starter from one of my turbo cars to the 77z, it fits & works just fine.

I have a gear reduction starter on my '78.  I had replaced it and don't remember whether the original was a gear reduction model.

 

FAIW, I had a Chrysler 318 inboard boat with a massive Prestolite starter that was in fairly nice shape.  I would frequently clean out the starter to refresh the armature, brushes, connections, etc., but it would still crank the motor rather sluggishly.  My cables were hefty and clean, and I was cranking off of two batteries -- one a starting battery and the other a deep cycle.  One day I decided to ditch the pretty Prestolite starter and install a gear reduction starter, and it made all the difference in the world.  When I turned the key, the starter would spin the engine effortlessly.

Edited April 22, 2015 by FastWoman

[Captain Obvious]

Bruce, you need to come to the convention. You are someone I should meet.

 

Haha! I'm looking into it... If I do go, I'll be sans Z, but even that would be worthwhile, right?

[SteveJ]

Haha! I'm looking into it... If I do go, I'll be sans Z, but even that would be worthwhile, right?

IMHO it would be. I've already had the pleasure of meeting Philip. I also met Carl Beck and Ron Carter when they came out my way for The Mitty. I was able to track down Guy, aka Diseazed, at the Savannah convention.  There are a lot of people on this board worth meeting, and that includes you.

[Captain Obvious]

Well I'd really like to meet up with you as well! I've heard that you are in charge of getting all the ClassicZ members together?

 

I'll look into it a little more and then bump the Zcon roll-call thread.

 

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50945-zcon-roll-call/