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'72 240Z Rebuild


siteunseen

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On 4/22/2016 at 0:15 PM, Zed Head said:

The distributors come with marks to get static timing close, either two lines or a line and some numbers.  Then you can remove the cap to make sure the rotor is pointed the right direction, and the spark trigger (points opening or reluctor edge on magnetic pickup) are in the correct place.  Which distributor and ignition system are you using?

Well Mr Zed I got it!  10 BTDC on the pulley, turned the dizzy until the reluctor's points lined up with the stator's points and voila! the rotor button pointed to #1. :D

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Well fooey!

Everything worked and it cranked right up. Went to set fast idle at 2,000 rpm by my timing light. got in to watch the temp gauge. Nothing. None of my gauges worked. Pulled the fuse box cover and the IGN 20 amp as smoked. Shut it down. 

I put a new alternator on and that's all I changed electrically. I will get some new glass fuses and unhook the new alternator to see if my gauges come to life, tomorrow. I'm beat!

Carbs got super warm too. I will close off that coolant circuit too and see what happens. I've got something wrong somewhere in the coolant routing. 

Sounded great for about five minutes! LOL

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Would the white/red coming off the alternator burn that fuse? then kill my gauges? I put the radio fuse in there and the gauges started moving then back to nothing. Looked at it again, smoked. Then like a dumb a** I touched it. Know I have a blister coming up the size of a fuse on my finger.

It sounded so good, I'm crying into a half of a case of beer now.

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