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Funny, I just popped one of those out the other day.  They tend to be difficult.  A pair of Channelocks over a few layers of cloth will get it spinning to loosen it up.  A big screwdriver in the hold-down slot, with a piece of wood under it for a lever that doesn't damage anything, helps pry it out.

But, to confirm what you probably already were thinking - it's awkward and difficult, and they tend to stick.  Hard to avoid getting plier marks on it.  Most are scarred.

I removed the speedo cable housing carefully using vice grips padded with a shop towel. Wiggled it back and forth and it finally came out. Good luck. Easier when in the car as it took a bit of muscle to get the thing to turn.

Cheers, Mike

I'd put a couple of 2' 2X4  parallel on the floor so that the shaft in the transmission is not on the floor.  Just let the face of the housing rest on the wood.

 

I'd put a couple of 2' 2X4  parallel on the floor so that the shaft in the transmission is not on the floor.  Just let the face of the housing rest on the wood.
 

It is now. I just had it on the floor like that to paint for a short while. Thanks!

Nope. These are the strength and size I need for the Haltech. I will build a support plate for them that sits off of the valve cover. They are UF400 Acura COP’s.

Oh. Sorry. No disrespect intended then.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vmEV1d7RPvg

Is it as simple as needing something (anything) designed for COP? Or does Haltech give you dwell specs that you have to match to their coil driver?

Completely unrelated to this, I've been casually poking around with ignition stuff lately. Not sure I'm going to make any moves, but at this time, I've got more questions than answers.   LOL

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