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Melted Fusebox


BoldUlysses

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Wow, what are the odds of that? My fuse box looks exactly like that! :ermm:

Apparently that is usually the first fuse to burn out. It must be a high load circuit.

I just replaced the fuse on that circuit with an in-line fuse holder. However after a couple of years the remaining clips were so weak that they stopped holding the fuses tight and they started to heat up as well. I "fixed" it by pulling the battery out, taking out all the fuses, and then using a plastic wire tie around the base of each clip to clamp every fuse in place. (It will be a real pain to replace any of them now...)

I know however that what I did is only a temporary measure. Eventually the MSA fuse box upgrade is probably in my future. You might want to bite the bullet and replace the fuse box now...

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Matt, look for my Sold on LEDs thread. Replacing the incandescent bulbs with LEDs will drop current flow through the circuit greatly. Also consider getting the parking light relay harness from Dave Irwin, aka Zs-Ondabrain. Also, unless you have more fuse boxes lying around, you might need to get the replacement fuse box from MSA.

This along with the headlight harness and for the modern blade fuses get the msa fuse block. As Dave has explained in previous threads all the current to run the PL and HL run through the fuse block and the combination switch. If you take the clam shell off the steering column you will see the white and red wire deformed from all the resistance. The msa fuse block will curtail much of the resistance, but you still have the power to the HL and PL running through the combo switch.

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  • 1 month later...

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