Minor rust repair

[Pomorza]

Hey guys

Went to the car wash today to clean the Z. While cleaning the interior on the passenger side I noticed that there is a spot of surface rust behind the passengers seat. (pics below, the stuff on the seat rails is foam material not rust).

What is the best way to fix this issue? Does anyone know where I can go (or get) paint that would match the interior?

Thanks greatly

Jan

[pwd]

There are a number of products on the market which neutralize rust. They're all Phosphoric Acid or Zinc Phosphate based. Probably the most widely known is POR-15. The same company also has a product called "Metal-Ready" in a pump spray if you want to use body paint instead of POR-15.

[beandip]

Hey guys

Went to the car wash today to clean the Z. While cleaning the interior on the passenger side I noticed that there is a spot of surface rust behind the passengers seat. (pics below, the stuff on the seat rails is foam material not rust).

What is the best way to fix this issue? Does anyone know where I can go (or get) paint that would match the interior?

Thanks greatly

Jan

Jan, what you have is a easy fix. That is if you want to permanently treat the rust. As was stated POR 15, however and this is a must. first wire brush the rusted area then use Marine Clean. This and Metal Ready , both are products made by POR. Follow the directions given on the packaging . If you cut corners all bets are off. If you follow directions , the rust will be sealed forever . If you wish to topcoat with a color like your interior, apply the paint while the POR paint is still tacky. It is amazing stuff and hard as porcelain so if you wait for the topcoat color and the POR cures it is a difficult job to sand and if you don't the topcoat will just peal off.

I used POR extensively on my 240 8+ years ago and I haven't seen any rust on any treated areas yet. And I live in Oregon and sometimes it rains here like 50'' a year.

Gary

[EScanlon]

But I don't think your rust is isolated to just that rear section.

I'd pull the seat, and then the tar-mat to see what's underneat the tar.

I'm guessing that the rust you're showing is from STANDING water, which means it WICKED under the tar further forward. Meaning that it was water/humidity that stayed in contact with the metal for a LONG period of time.

Not trying to burst your bubble, just being factual.

E

[jfa.series1]

As a card carrying member of the "been there, done that" club, every bit of the advice above is spot on! You need to inspect all of the floorboard area for damage. And while you are at it, look for one or more entry points for the source of the water - base of windshield, all firewall openings, A/C, ... you get the idea.

A wire brush wheel on a drill motor is great for breaking loose all the build-up. Vacuum out all the loose stuff, then hit it with Marine Clean followed by Metal Ready. Let it dry thoroughly for a few days before applying POR-15 paint. Here is my photo log of the process on my car. A tip from my brother-in-law: for non-critical areas, consider getting paint tinted to match your car color at a big-box store. I used my inspection lid as a source color. Since the floorboards are fully covered, they count as a non-critical visual area.

This is a pretty easy fix as long as no major damage is discovered. Remember - RUST NEVER SLEEPS!

Good luck.

Jim

[EScanlon]

You definitely want to look under the tar-mat on the floor. NOT doing so could be a MAJOR mistake.

Don't forget that the tarmat on the floor pan was applied before the car got painted. This as NOT a good procedure as 40 years later proves.

As a result what appears to be relatively rust-free is NOT. I've attached some pictures showing what I mean. As you look at them remember that the car seemed to be relatively rust free, and chipping away at some of the tar-mat revealed clean rust free metal in more than one area. Then further inspection revealed....

Lastly, after painting with POR, you may choose to re-apply the tar-mat or another sound-deadener (they're all pretty much the same). As such, you may choose to forego painting and save a couple of bucks.

FWIW

E

[Pomorza]

Thanks guys for all the help. It appears that I have some nice work ahead of me here in the future. About how long does the applications and drying take place? I can live without the Z but it is my only means of transportation at this time.

Thank again

Jan

[jfa.series1]

The wire brush, Marine Clean, and Metal Ready can be completed as fast as you can work. Metal Ready must be thoroughly washed out with water to neutralize the acid and let the zinc phosphate residue to setup in the drying process. I recommend at least 2 days of drying with very good air circulation.

If you decide to use the POR-15 products, be sure to download ALL instruction sheets from their site. FOLLOW ALL INSTRUCTIONS!!! POR-15 paint is VERY viscous - it runs as fast as a kid to candy and it will easily pool on any flat surface. Be sure to follow the instructions on closing the paint can with a layer of plastic wrap. You probably want to allow 2-3 days of drying on the POR-15 paint, again with good circulation.

I had no trouble with my color-coat adhering to the POR-15. A little Penetrol in the oil-based paint gives it excellent flow qualities, aids drying. A couple more days of drying for the color-coat. You are probably looking at about 1 week total if you stick with the job.

Jim

[EScanlon]

But USE A RESPIRATOR with POR.

E