More halfshaft issues

[doodles526]

So I finally found some time today to put in my new rear end today. Or at least attempt to. It's a 260z, and i got the halfshafts disconnected from the diff, then dropped out the diff. Here's where my problems come in.

Part of the reason for picking up the "new to me" rear end is because my u-joints are shot and I found a guy with the rear end with halfshafts with really good condition u-joints for just a few bucks more than buying new u-joints. But now I can't get the halfshaft disconnected from the wheel side, and I pulled the four bolts that seem to be the only connection. I'm hoping that this is an idiotic answer. But it doesn't look like there's anything else that could be holding it internally looking at the halfshafts on the new unit. I'm just hoping some idiot didn't decide to do some unnescessary welding before I got the car.

[doodles526]

anyways... just wondering if i'm missing something crucial here

[Zs-ondabrain]

Typically Rust will hold the 2 peices together. Just had thaqt issue with Z_Tyler_Z's 280Z. Decent smack with the hammer and they poppep off.

By the way, who ever told Tyler that the U-joints couldn't be replaced at home, didn't have a clue. Popped the cups out (all four) cleaned the holes with a drum sander on the dremel, coated everything with a thin film of Antiseize, to keep the rust down for next time, and put it all back together. 10 minutes to get them out, 20 minutes to swap the new Ujoints in and 10 minutes to get them back on the car. Easy peesy, Beans and Cheesy....

Dave

[Zed Head]

On a 280, the half-shaft mating flanges have a fairly tight fit centering section that can get stuck. It is designed to center the flanges. Look at the other end of the half-shaft, it's essentially the same fit on the wheel side. You can tap it loose with a hammer or carefully wedge a screwdriver or chisel in at the interface while rotating the shaft. If you have already knocked out the four bolts, a couple of decent taps with a hammer while rotating the shaft should break it loose.

I'm guessing the 260 is similar.

[bigoak]

Had a similar issue on my 240Z...the description on the 280 above is similar. Had to play with mine a bit including a bit of hammer work but what seemed to make a difference was rotating the half-shaft and trying to pry off from different angles. Once I found the right angle it popped off.

Good luck.

[mlc240z]

As with any venture into items possibly never removed in 39+ years, get into the habit of spraying everything in the area with something like PBlaster or Kroil the night/days before.

Believe me, life will be good if you're patient and do this beforehand.

When I refreshed the rear on mine, the 10 mins PB'ing everything the day before I planned on working on them paid me back tenfold in ease of removal and lack of snapped fasteners.

It's definitely worth the prep.

[Zs-ondabrain]

Great Advice Bart, but on the other side of the coin, A LOT of us work on our cars on a "While I was at it" spur of the moment kinda schedule. I never know when I'll actually have time to work on my Z, so when I actually get time, it's a "Do it now or it ain't happening" kinda deal.

But other than that, I totally agree.

Dave