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TOTAL clutch frustration!!


Reverend

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Hi! Thanks for the great advices, ill try those all in this week. I was visiting Latvia past weekend and Z stayed home :)

The screw in the master cylinder (one that holds hardline) is stuck so i got some work to open it.

Clutch pedal has no resistance at all but it returns back normally. I see no bubbles but liquid is moving normally. If i press rapidly with cap open, it overflows.

Slave piston is not stuck, as i wrote, slave is brand new. There is just enough pressure to make it move, as i have seen while bleeding.

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I suppose it was working before, i just recently bought the car and it has been standing for about 1year. Clutch was in this condition. Idaho, that's one of three different methods i tried. I've only replaced slave cylinder cause it was wasted and was rusted stuck.

Now I think it's possible that with all that rust the throwout bearing is seized on the housing. Steel + aluminum+ moisture = battery. So the fork can still move but the bearing can't. Maybe you can look through the boot hole and see.

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Now I think it's possible that with all that rust the throwout bearing is seized on the housing. Steel + aluminum+ moisture = battery. So the fork can still move but the bearing can't. Maybe you can look through the boot hole and see.

I think what you'd be looking for if this were the case is a split throwout fork (not unheard of). That's a hell of a lot of pressure to put on the fork, and it isn't that flexible.

I'm still thinking the master is bad or the adjustment at the pedal is F'ed up. I just can't see it being anything else.

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Clutch pedal has no resistance at all but it returns back normally. I see no bubbles but liquid is moving normally. If i press rapidly with cap open, it overflows.

That is because the seals on the piston in your Clutch Master Cylinder are shot - fluid that is supposed to be pressurized into the line, is leaking past the piston and getting pushed back up into the reservoir - - Replace the Master.:stupid:

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