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My 260Z build (Brake upgrades and Mods)


Zs-ondabrain

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Thanks, The nice thing is the LACK of the EVAP and I'll build an almost identical amp panel on the other side as well. Took a little off the rear cover panel to make room for the new speaker pod but it was actually a cheap replacement cover, so no big loss.

I can't wait to see it all in the same material, loaded with amps and speakers and see it all with the carpet in place. It should be real nice and flowing. There'll be 2) 12" subs in the spare well, 2) amps in the quarters, 2 speakers in the rear pods, 2) speakers in custom door panels with custom pods and another set of pods in the front kick panels.

Got a lot of work to do. Anyone know where a guy like me can get a $7000 loan to finish this?

Dave

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Two 12" in a z? You're crazy.

How much improvement do you expect over 1) 12"?

I'm also going to fibreglass a rear sub enclosure. Should be eaiser than the front kick pods. That resin is expensive. You might convince me to find a second 12" if you're not careful.

Can I ask you to take the same detail with the front kicks? I'm about to get my first expierence with fibreglass this summer.

PS, you know you could have just taken the heater core out and put your amps there... just make sure to have what the English would have called a "Driving Blanket", for those colder (all) nights.

Really nice writeup, and I think the amps will juust barely hide from sight when the rear hatch closes. I remember dad cursing whoever stole the last set of kick pods from this car. Worthless to anyone else, but perfect for the z.

Edit: I also didn't know the red 240 had tinted windows. Do they just look that way in the picture (Post No. 43)?

Edited by fiveleaf
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I actually expect Twice as much output from 2) 12" subs, as I would with only 1).

I could use just one but the subs I'm getting require 0.65 cu.ft each and the wheel well with 1/4" sidewalls and 1" thick top and 1" divider with the subs .11 displacement comes to 1.3 divided by 2 = .65 each, perfect!!

Resin is getting pricey. I paid $45 for a gallon of Polyester Resin from Schucks/O'Rielly.

The front pods (kick panel) will be almost the same.

1) I'll copy the original panel out of 1/8" MDF cause it's stronger then the stock fiberboard.

2) Then I'll make a ring out of the 1/2" MDF (like the rear but round) with another 1/2" ring on top of that to allow the speaker to sit below the pod and be hidden by the 1/4" grill cloth covered panel. I'll do a full write up on it later.

3) then use radio backstraps to hold the ring out from the panel and at the correct angle.

4) I'll wrap the entire thing in Fleece and staple it to the back of the panel. The fleece is very stretchy and holds a lot of resin which makes for a thicker enclosure.

5) Staple the fleece to the ring as well. Then resin the whole thing, using a roller rake to work the resin into everything.

After it's hard, cut the hole out and trim the excess from the back. I use a grinder and a double filter resporator, grinding the rough spots down so it sits flush against the wall that it'll be mounted to, test fit then clean up the rest. Paint it, wrap it or what-ever.

My Z's get parked in the garage and have full alarms. I don't care how good of a thief you are, you won't get my Z's....... And yes, my windows are tinted with 20% tint. If you look again at the picture, you can see thru the front window and almost thru the drivers side window. If the house behind the car was better lit, you'd see it in the picture.

By the way, I'll be using the Pioneer TS-SW301 shallow mount subs.

Dave

Edited by Zs-ondabrain
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Nice work Dave. Your level of innovation is very inspiring. I was actually pondering what a nicely done custom semi-stealth fiberglass quarter rear speaker panel might look like and now I know. Let me know when you're ready to come down to Santa Cruz and start work on mine. :)

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No problem. Just cover fuel, supplies and a vacation home for me and the wife and we're there!!!

Part of the fun of building things like this is showing it off and showing how others can do it easily and on a budget. Kinda like the hot-rod guys on SPIKE every Saturday and sunday. I"m actually watching "Trucks" on Spike right now, while I build Headlight and parking light harness's. Well, doing more listening than watching.

Dave

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Had to get the hell away from the Upgrade building today, everybody needs a day off, now and then. So I got some fresh air in the garage, kinda.....

I don't think suckin in fiberglass fumes and dust qualifies as fresh air. But at least I got some work done. so much for taking a break....

you'll notice the backstraps used to reinforce the panel. The original panels is flimsy as hell so I glassed the whole backside before I'll wrap it in fleece for resining the front side.

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Sun came out today and I can only do so many upgrades before my hands give out and my eyes get blurry. The Reading glasses only help so much......

So after reinforcing the back, I started stapling the fleece to the wooden frame. But I went a different route this time, SUPER GLUE!!!! It's awesome for tight corners and tucking where staples and clamps just won't work. Only takes 5 seconds to get the glue to hold the fleece down as it absorbs the oils from your fingers, that have worked it's way into the fleece while I'm pushing the fleece into the panel with super glue on it. And that holds the material in place while I lightly brush and roll the resin into place. Being carefull to not break the fleece loose from the panel while brushing.

The end result is a decent panel with curves that I couldn't manage to get before, unless the panel was a staplable wood product.

Dave

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  • 2 months later...

I've read everywhere about using a BIAS adjuster and NOT using one. I'll decide on it later.

Hey Dave, did you ever get a chance to decide about the stock brake bias or install an adjustable one?

I am prepping to install the same exact package front and back except with the Z race products brackets and 82-83 280zx calipers and rotors.

Thanks. :)

Edited by Headstrong280z
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