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Operation 240k


KID-K

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Hi Tommy, thanks for the kind words.....I've kinda detailed all the bits and pieces involved in the conversion in this forum, but I'll try to summarize it for you...

engine mounts are standard r33, bolted in the original position on the motor but the front frame on the 240k is modified, can give you a template if you wish.

gearbox, used the standard r33 gearbox mount but made a new crossmember using two pieces of 50 x 100 angle plate and some round tube...also used two new front control arm nylon bushes as spacers...to allow for the perfect angle on the gearbox I did alter the gearbox tunnel about 40mm, Also I made a spacer setup on the gearbox mount, this allows you to shime the position up and down and made the diff angle adjustable just so all the angles would be perfect....(REMEMBER THE ANGLE OF THE MOTOR AND THE ANGLE OF THE DIFF NEED TO BE THE SAME).

radiator, used a r33 radiator, almost fitted in perfect. Had to check out about 10 x 10mm from the front rails to allow the radiator to sit properly, used two mitsubishi magna radiator mounts to support it. standard r33 radiator hoses fit perfect...

Custom made intercooler...refer to picture, this is optional.....look out for some new photos as I'm in the process of changing my intercooler pipes to make room for the new highmount Garret.

You'll need to make a surge tank, I run a standard nissan bluebird fuel pump from the standard tank to the surge tank with a return line and then a bosch 044 from surge to motor again with return line.

As far as wiring goes this is were I cheated, I basically pulled the 240k loom out and sent it away with the r33 loom...it came back in 3 days as one, plug and play.....

Other things of interest, the standard 240k oil sensor fits on the rb and works fine.

the standard 240k temp sensor screwed into the bunge on the aluminum radiator and works fine, I have later modified it to mount to the original position on the rb inlet manifold

You can use a nissan navara mechanical speedo drive to replace the drive on the gearbox, it will bolt on as normal but requires a conversion box to get the ratio correct...I can still get them.

There's a wiring diagram on the forum to get the original tacho to work as well.

You'll need a new tailshaft, I replaced mine as a one piece using again a nissan navara input shaft, they seemed to be correct spline count but a bit longer in length......

......apart from that I can't really think of anything else, I must say that this part of the conversion was easy compared to the front struts, the five bolt conversion, the adjustable rear camber and toe conversion and the universal to cv conversion...good luck

Future plans for my K....rb26 crank, forged rb26 rods and pistons, leaving the head as an rb25 with the vct, but with neo springs...a new garret highmount and external waste gate, turbo 6 manifold, 760 nismo injectors, have to change my hand made 2.5" stainless exhaust to something bigger and a power fc.....I'll be posting new pics soon.

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KID-K

To see a project like this really inspires me. I too am working on a restoration but it appears to be moving along much slower than yours. I like others can appreciate the time and effort, not to mention the expense, involved in something like this. Your particular car was not shipped to North America in very many numbers if any at all. When they were brought here the owner had to travel to another country to get them and bring them back. But nevertheless my hat goes off to you and your brother for the awesome job the two of you are doing. Good Luck!

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I COULD BE THE LAST PERSON IN THE WORLD TO HAVE A 240K PINCHED. Last Sunday night a very thoughtful person helped himself to my parts car....The whole thing!!!!!
Sorry to hear that KID-K. But always keep this thought in mind,"CHEATERS NEVER WIN, EGGHEADS NEVER PROSPER" Whoever took your parts hog will probably crash the car they plan to use the parts on. No worries. KARMA will take care of him.
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  • 1 month later...

Had to be on site at 7.30 this morning for our very first photo shoot. Jun, our photographer took over 300 photos of the two cars for hopefully an article in an upcoming edition of Performance Imports. Here are some snap shots of the day from my phone, will post some real photos when I get some.......worked all night to get it ready as I somehow managed to break an inlet cam on Thursday night!

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Finally got some time to play over the last few days..just a shot of the new turbo...hopefully I'll have time on the weekend to bolt everything on....

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Edited by KID-K
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gee-zus! that could quite possibly go fast perhaps ;-) im running a screamer on mine LOL.

hey thanks heaps for the info man that was a great read. i'm coming along really well with my project. thanks for the tip with the tailshaft and diff alignment. i didnt think it mattered cause there's a uni at both ends? well there is on mine anyway.

when is your car to appear in PI mag?

oh and hook me up with that converter for the speedo ratio man. would be a massive help!

Edited by Silent Shadow
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yea my motor's in woo! i'd love to look at your template though. we just slotted the k-frame from the mount holes upwards. so the rb slides down the slots and sits on the original holes. it does sit a little high though. gunna need my plenum modded at this point. but ive already found someone to do that.

cheers bud.

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please check the angle of the motor, I had to lift the gearbox to compensate for the angle of the motor, I think mine sits lower as I took some off the K frame, and probably in hindsight should have taken even another 5mm off.

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the back of the gearbox can only go about an inch upwards before it's hitting the car and the engine can only go down an inch before it's sitting on the x-member. i had a look at your pics and the mounts and x-member are heaps different so i dont think i can apply the same technique you used. apart from that stupid high plenum, the motor sits really well. almost factory LOL. but yea as i said, i got a mate who's gunna re-mod the plenum so the throttle body sits lower and bonnet should close properly.

can you link me to the speedo ratio converter thingy?

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