Texasz,

A small detail I know, but what about recovering the wiring loom with fresh wiring loom tape? I am doing mine at the moment (bare metal respray inc. engine bay) as the engine is out, my wiring loom is dirty, overspray, underseal, and looks bad against fresh paint. I don't know whats yours is like. Just a thought.

Ian

Good idea Ian! I had not thought about that. Thanx for giving me more work to do.

I am rewrapping my dash harness between keystrokes-I am putting the factory tags back on-but only wiping them off with a damp cloth-the ink runs with cleaner.

Will

For BOTH of you, what are you re-wrapping the harness with? Just standard black electrical tape?

3m Super 33 Professional Electrical Tape-comes in a hockey puck container.

Will

Just an update!

About 100 feet of tape(a roll and a half), just over two hours, several shoprags and the dash harness is unwraped, wires cleaned(insulation only), and re-wrapped(connections and connectors are for another day-I am going to clean(deoxit100), flux, solder the connectors to the wires, and clean the flux residue with deoxit 100, let dry, then flush and lubricate with deoxit5.)

Will

excellent!

My suggestion is to just POR-15 the battery tray area and any other sensitive areas such as the bottoms of the frame rails and firewall near the battery tray, frame rails and around the tranny tunnel.. Doing the whole thing is overkill especially in Texas. And this is coming from someone who POR-15'd his entire suspension - which looking back was not really necessary probably. Only way I'd say it's worth it to POR-15 the whole thing is if you're going to spray it, otherwise it'll look like crap since POR at least when I used it tends to bubble a little and is impossible to sand. That's my plan for my engine bay anyway - POR the trouble areas around the firewall and battery tray and save as much of the original paint as a base for the new coats.

Oh and remember if you do spray it you have to be EXTREMELY careful about removing all water from the compressed air. Not easy to do without out mega filters and dryers etc. IT's possible but because POR-15 is so sensitive to water contamination I'm scared to even try it.

Anyway just my 2 or 3 cents.

Michael

Texasz,

I am using wiring loom tape, it has no sticky side to it, when you are wrapping it around, just keep it taut. I unwound my old tape rather than wrapping over the top. Just unwrap some old tape to a good point (like when wires go off the main loom) wrap new stuff on and working my way down the loom.

Also cleaning my connectors too, just covered in crud. Scrapping the biggest of it off then using some solvent. Over here, you can buy antiseptic wipes (general use) in a plastic container (the wipes pull out the top). I poured the excess water out and poured some solvent in instead. Now I have solvent wipes, very handy indeed.

Cheers

Ian

Isn't it easier to go with the dry cell batteries now a days, since you don't have to worry about spilling or leaking acid on to you paint. They cost more but last longer and have a better chance of surviving a complete drain if you leave your lights on verses a normal battery.

my 2 cents..

Hey, this is a great thread! I'll throw in my 2 cents. I just rebuilt 26th's engine. Stock except balanced.

By a Nissan oil pump. Buy aftermarket water pumps and replace them often. New head bolts is a good idea. It doesn't matter where you get them. I would do the alternator upgrade if I were you. I don't think the engine bay harness is too difficult to rewrap. Nice touch and I don't like the sticky electrical tape - although Will posted a "correct" 3m refference. Humble or Vintage Z checklist? Can't really comment on the starter thing. Or the alternator upgrade for that matter. I'm stuck with 1969 POS.

As far as POR is concerned, I hate the s**t. That's all I have to say about that subject.

If you are going to autoX, a performance clutch is in order. Centerforce will do nicely. I would look into stiffer mounts for the gearbox. There was a suggestion about MSA parts and I concur completely. Most everything I have ever bought from MSA or VB has been very satisfactory. The dry cell battery is a good idea.

...I would look into stiffer mounts for the gearbox.

Do you have any suggestions? I had planned on just buying OEM motor and tranny mounts based upon other people's suggestions.

The dry cell battery is a good idea.

It will be getting an Optima, no question about it.

ignition system.... why not a plain MSD 6?

Do you have any good information/experience that leads you to suggest the MSD over a newer Nissan electronic ignition like to one I had in mind?