Replacing S30 Rear Wheel Bearings

[Captain Obvious]

The FSM actually says you shouldn't have to address the peened (they call it "caulked" in the FSM) sections at all. They say just to take them off without messing with the bent portions at all.

However....... There was someone here who actually DID try that and it distorted the threads on the stub axle a little. I didn't dig up that thread, but it's in here somewhere. And after seeing what happened to his threads, I wouldn't recommend following the FSM. I would do something to the bent over portions first before taking the nut off.

[Dave WM]

21 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

The FSM actually says you shouldn't have to address the peened (they call it "caulked" in the FSM) sections at all. They say just to take them off without messing with the bent portions at all.

However....... There was someone here who actually DID try that and it distorted the threads on the stub axle a little. I didn't dig up that thread, but it's in here somewhere. And after seeing what happened to his threads, I wouldn't recommend following the FSM. I would do something to the bent over portions first before taking the nut off.

after my post I did some googling, seems like has to do with if the threads are involved or not in the stake section. I am guessing the axle is treaded all the way to the end?

When I was working on the transmission I found the stake did not need to be undone. It just bent back up. The stake part was pretty thin. I don't recall the thread issue (to end or not).

Perhaps just how the staking was done would matter (cut and curled up or just dented down).

I cant see the harm in at least using a tool to get under the stake and at least getting it started on the way up if not removing it altogether.

 

Edited May 22, 2019 by Dave WM

[Blitzed]

Thanks All, I'll try cutting a groove and bending out or off the treads. Concerned about cutting to the treads. Back with a report shortly. 

[Zed Head]

Spreading the bent part out slightly with a chisel or drift should be enough.  Oil them up before removing so that they can re-expand more easily.  Think of it as a machining operation.

Sometimes, apparently, the threads next to the flats get damaged during nut removal.  But, because there are flats next to them I don't think that they supply any real holding power.  It looks bad but it doesn't matter as far as function.

[Jason240z]

i'm hoping to sort this now i've some 'car time' coming up. along with buying another full set of bearings.

[Jason240z]

So, it now seems to be 'fixed'.

Need to torque the hub nut up properly, however for some reason, another shaft/rear wheel hub seems to have sorted it.

Going to torque it up correctly shortly to be 100%.

Edited October 13, 2019 by Jason240z

[Jason240z]

I've done the other side, I think what was happening is that when I pressed the hub side in, it was pushing the bearings back out on the inner side, and vice-versa.

Once the nuts turn up i'll torque and check.

Either that or I had an issue with both my original stub axles.  What I did do was fit a grease nipple so I can load the hub up with grease as part of a 'service' so hopefully, once done they should last my lifetime.

Edited October 14, 2019 by Jason240z

[Patcon]

1 hour ago, Jason240z said:

I've done the other side, I think what was happening is that when I pressed the hub side in, it was pushing the bearings back out on the inner side, and vice-versa.

Once the nuts turn up i'll torque and check.

Either that or I had an issue with both my original stub axles.  What I did do was fit a grease nipple so I can load the hub up with grease as part of a 'service' so hopefully, once done they should last my lifetime.

I thought about adding a zerk but didn't do it this time. If I ever have to go back in there, I will probably add one then

[Jason240z]

Yeah, amazingly effective, I could see the grease pushing through the bearings on the inner side, even after i'd loaded the bearings.