Carburetor Central
If you have questions about the SU Carburetors, this is where you can find the answers.
Subforums
-
- 848
- posts
-
- 1.5k
- posts
1,452 topics in this forum
-
- 2 replies
- 1.2k views
I purchased a couple of GP Sorensen 72 SU carb rebuild kits and managed to use all, but one of the gaskets. I did some digging around in my manuals and in the instructions, but don't see where this one will go. Does one go in the nozzle assembly? That is about the only place untouched so far. I changed the gasket on the dipstick, 2 on the fuel screen filler pipe, the float valve, and float bowl drain. I didn't change the plastic washer on the slide in the dome, but at least I know about that one. I can't find the link to the instructions, but if need be I can highlight the installed items later and measure the left over gasket when I get home over lunch. Thanks
Last reply by JohnnyO, -
-
- 4 replies
- 1.9k views
I am new to z cars but not to cars. I am new to this forum so if this is in the wrong place let me know. My car is an early 74 260 with a 280 block an e31 heads, cam, large valves and 4screw su's. I bought a beck arnly major rebuild kit for the carbs. It came with two sets of the long mixture needles numbers on them are nwj1 on two and nwj2 on two of them. Does anyone know what those numbers are I cannot find any reference to them an any su sites. They are shorter than the needles that came with the carbs and those have no markings. Any help would be great:)
Last reply by Bruce Palmer, -
- 11 replies
- 6.6k views
Hey guys, I don't post much here since I'm no mechanic, and there are so many more knowledgeable folks out there, but I had an experience today (and about 20 years ago) that I wanted to relate since I didn't see anything about it when I did a search. Problem: your carbureted 240Z cuts out / stalls suddenly when you're driving around, usually shortly after your fuel goes below 1/2 tank. Otherwise, at the beginning of your drive, it starts up just fine, seems to run fine. But get below 1/2 tank, and at some point it just cuts out, stalls, and refuses to re-start. Cranks over fine, but won't fire. You check the simple things. Spark and fuel. Spark looks ok. Check the fuel…
Last reply by 70 Cam Guy, -
- 23 replies
- 12.4k views
I just had a nice email conversation with Todd @ Wolf Creek Racing about a Mikuni PHH setup. Just want to say his good reputation on these message boards is well deserved. On to my question and curiosity. I have spent the last couple days searching here and hybridZ for threads on the Mikuni's. They run the gambit but I failed to notice anyone talking about how our cars are to drive with a set of triple sidedrafts. I've seen threads about bogs and needing help but not many come back with a resolution and review. When things are tuned and in good working order, what are these things like to drive? Say I want to to drive to work a couple days in mixed traffic. Will I be p…
Last reply by 70 Cam Guy, -
- 3 replies
- 1.4k views
Are the SY carbs in sets or can I swap out ... a bad one (dirt) for a rebuilt one and just retune?
Last reply by Bruce Palmer, -
- 3 replies
- 1.6k views
Does anybody know the paint color code of the orange used to paint the original air cleaner of a '70 240z? And, where I can get that paint? Thanks.
Last reply by JohnnyO, -
- 3 replies
- 2.5k views
Can a TWIN Weber 32/36 dgv carb setup be converted to a TRIPLE 32/36 dgv setup ?
Last reply by sblake01, -
- 24 replies
- 5.4k views
I just bought a 1973 240Z with 26,000 original miles on it, from the original owner. The car is in amazing shape, very little rust, but has not run much over the last several years. The girl I bought it from said she started it every few months, but it hadn't started for about 8 - 9 months. Its been garaged in Massachusetts since it was new. I'm new to the Z (I've wanted one my whole life, and finallly found "the one"), and I definitely don't know much about these Hitachis flat top carbs. The car will run if I spray starter fluid in the carbs. I'm getting fuel to the carbs (I cranked it with both lines disconnected), and it runs with starter fluid, so I'm sure th…
Last reply by tomb, -
- 8 replies
- 1.8k views
Hi, A couple of weeks ago my 1972 240Z began suffering the classic symptoms of a bad load of gas. I tossed in a can of Sea-Foam, ran through another tank and while the otherwise inexplicable power losses and coughing disappeared, a reproducible problem appeared. If I run hard in 2nd from 3000 it pulls well until 5000 in 3rd and then just flat out won't go any more and runs rough. It's not a misfire, per se, just nothing. If I push in the clutch at speed for 30 seconds or so, then rebreak from 4500 it will pull to 5500 and then, nothing. In deference to the 200,000 miles under its belt, I use 6000 as the redline in normal use, but it will run up to 7000 in 1st or 2nd, …
Last reply by Bonzi Lon, -
- 6 replies
- 1.8k views
I'm running a slightly bored L28 aftermarket cam, into a 240z with triple webers. Ignition will soon be PS91 with HI-6 from crane arms. Currently, I have a 280zx Distributor without the vaccum advance hooked up (bad). I am looking for a new distributor, and would like to hear any thoughts on weather to go with vaccum and mechanical, or mechanical advance only. I know that triples are not usually set up for vaccum advance, and if I drill, it must be before the first butterfly nut on the manifold. This is not where cannon want's me to drill (there are preselected holes), but that's fine with me. I have also heard of possible problems with vaccum issues when more carbs than…
Last reply by jmortensen, -
I just converted my 73 240Z to SU Carbs (new from z therapy.com) - I also removed all smog gear. I have the carbs sync at low and high rpm's just fine. However, as soon as I get in the car and start to drive - it does not feel as if they are sucking up all the gas. Any ideas? I converted to electronic ignation months ago too. Thanks in advance
Last reply by Darrel, -
- 7 replies
- 2.7k views
My 72 Z sat for a few months and I now it won't keep running. I have traced it to a fuel issue. It will run until the float bowls empty. Have installed new fuel filter and fuel pump (stock mechanical). I can add fuel to float bowls and it will run till they are empty. My next test is to disconnect the inlet line to the fuel pump and pump from a can of fresh gas. I fully assume that will work and that the problem is a clogged fuel pick up. Can anyone provide tips, dos and don'ts for dropping the fuel tank? As straight forward as it looks? Anything unsual about the fuel tanks internal fuel pickup? Is it just a hole and exit tube or is there some sort of internal scre…
Last reply by Jeff G 78,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
