Carburetor Central
If you have questions about the SU Carburetors, this is where you can find the answers.
Subforums
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Looks like it. Looks like more than a simple gasket is required.
Last reply by Mikez73, -
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- 8 replies
- 3.9k views
Hi I recently made a post about my 240z carb behaviour in Engine section http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38755 Now i'd like to know how to tune this carbs without flowmeter. After reading all the posts made by this community i think it's running too lean. What's the most safest way to make it run richer without messing up carbs more? Also i'd like to know the reason why it occasionally puffs out white smoke from carbs after car is shut down.
Last reply by Carl Beck, -
- 3 replies
- 1.8k views
I was rebuilding my carbs today and removed the needle and seat assembly to replace them and noticed the size of the needle in the assembly I removed was larger in diameter than the replacement. I then noticed a "2.0" engraved on the side of the one I removed. I then blew air through them both and the old one allowed more air through than the new one. I understand that the needle and seat assembly regulates the fuel to the float bowls and cuts it off when the floats rise. My question is this: If I use the new, smaller needles and seats am I going to be starving my carbs of fuel? The old ones are in good shape and open and close perfectly so I could put them back i…
Last reply by JohnnyO, -
- 13 replies
- 4.2k views
While the tank is out, I'm cleaning up the straps. I'm going to use gasket material for the padded side. For the adhesive, should I paint the padding side of the strap before gluing the gasket material into place, or leave it bare metal? I figure the 3M black adhesive will work well.
Last reply by dankfrye@charter.net, -
- 2 replies
- 1.2k views
Anyone got the size/thread of this lil guy handy? It doesn't seal well, and it looks like it should have a washer and/or crush gasket. The flatter, wider hex-head looking part below the plug head is part of the tank, not the plug.
Last reply by BTF/PTM, -
- 4 replies
- 1.1k views
OK, here's one for Bruce and our other resident SU experts. First the preface; today I was finally able to take the z to meet a fellow forum member (Motorman7) for some carb tuning lessons. Well, the good news is we didn't find anything wrong with the float levels, didn't find any damage to needles or seats and we didn't have to do much adjusting at all to get both carbs idling smoothly. Bad news is, we found an air leak at the back carburetor that was audible when the Uni-Syn tool was on that carb. Now the problem; the back carb is running quite rich and is fouling the three back spark plugs in very short intervals. Now the hypothesis; it is supposed that, since the…
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
- 3 replies
- 1.5k views
I am researching swapping out my '73 carbs on my 240z, to earlier '70 carbs for better performance. I believe I will need to change the intake manifolds (going from square, to round ports?)? Is this correct? Also, as far as the choke cable. I will need to replace this? Correct? While considering this what swap might I also need to change some other components (delete some smog controls...live in Wisconsin) as I am sure some of you have more knowledge then me. I NEED YOUR INPUT. Aside, in the future I hope to replace the head to an N42, as I believe it to be the simplest (bolt on upgrade) from stock.
Last reply by Bruce Palmer, -
- 21 replies
- 8.5k views
I recently posted about the differences between the 3-screw and the 4-screw SU carb sets that I have, and I have a new question. Someone recently pointed out that the 4-screw carbs are easier to adjust becuz the 3-screw carbs have part of a linkage bar that protrudes out over the float bowl covers thus making it difficult to remove those covers for cleaning or adjustment. My car is running on the 3-screw carbs, it runs well enough but the back carb is fouling all three plugs and the car smells like it's running very rich. I have no idea when the 4-screw carbs were last run, so they'd definitely need to be disassembled and cleaned before using them. My question is, shoul…
Last reply by JohnnyO, -
- 5 replies
- 1.9k views
72 240 - Original engine I need some advice about a problem that has recently started with my Z. It starts fine with minimal choke and runs well (throttle response is very good) until after driving for about 30 minutes to an hour. Engine temp is still normal, but after turning off the engine it's hard to restart. Also it starts to stall and not pick up RPM's when applying throttle. When this happens if I pull the choke the engine runs well again and it makes the problem go away. But after using the choke to avoid the stall, it gets even worse. I don't have a lot of experience with the SU's. What do you guys think? Any help would be very appreciated.
Last reply by jwc11170, -
- 1 reply
- 3.9k views
hi guys a friend of mine just bought a 260z and he's thinking of making the EFI conversion, but we need your help with a list of the things that wee need so, if you can list the parts, opinions, comments would be very helpfull thanks!
Last reply by beezee, -
I am having one heck of a time getting my 240 tuned up. I have a 72 with 3 screw SU's, and E88 intake manifold, pertronix ignition set to 17 btdc, and new NGK plugs gapped to .032". On top of that I have replaced my fuel filter, added all new rubber lines, and thoroughly blown out the hard lines. Also, I have 20 wt oil in the dashpots. Before I figured out Bruce at Ztherapy was the way to go I picked up some GP Sorensen carb rebuild kits and replaced all of the seals in my carbs, cleaned the screens and reset the float bowls per the rebuild kit instructions. Which at the time said 14.28 mm, this allowed my car to run with the choke open, but I could never get the car set…
Last reply by hogie, -
- 3 replies
- 1.9k views
hello all, I am a fellow Belgian 260Z owner. My 260Z is overall in very good condition, it runs well at all speeds but I notice a large lag when revving at lower speeds. After browsing to these forums, I decided to ditch the Flat Top carbs and replace them with proper SU´s. Because my engine is fairly stock, I will not go for triple webers. - I will order the 260Z SU conversion kit from this guy: http://www.paltech1.com/ this is way cheaper than over here in Belgium. It would cost me over 900 dollars (euro). Any way, I would like to know what I can remove and where to put the cables after doing the conversion. I added a picture of my engine bay.
Last reply by H3nrY,
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