Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,083 topics in this forum
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- 2 replies
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I there Z owners, I have isolated a spark issue with my 240Z. It has many, many problems but one at a time right? Okay, so the ballast resistor by the coil. It does show 8 volts across, and there are only two posts where wires run (pos and neg side). I have seen some ballast resistors in pictures from forum members showing a third post in the middle with a mystery wire - whats that all about? Different model of car? Anyways, like I said my car has very weak spark. It starts just fine (I've read that the start position bypasses the ballast resistor but uses it in run) but sometimes doesn't stay running until I wiggle the resistor. Also, the screw that the ballast res…
Last reply by Z-Luke, -
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- 3 replies
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Hey guys Iam soon reinstalling my fuel tank and I need to know which lines can be eliminated from the tank and inside of the car . Alot are rotted and old and really dont want all the lines inside the car. If someone could put a pic up and maybe put color marks on the ones I dont need that would be awsome. Also if I can eliminate the big thing on the inside looks like some kind of venting setup that would be great too as I want to run my amps on each side . If i dont make sense tell me and I will try to explain better but doubtful .
Last reply by 240znz, -
- 6 replies
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Can someone tell me what connects to the dist vac on the canister and what connects on the purge line. I have the purge line connected to the intake manifoled. The only one I can tell is the fuel.:
Last reply by webdawg1, -
- 2 replies
- 930 views
Picture attached. I outline the part in question. What is it's purpose? It's really heavy (~5lbs), and has layers welded together. It's bolted onto the bar, but I can't see any purpose. I took it off to do something with the differential, but didn't bother to put it back on when I put everything back together.
Last reply by RT Hunter, -
- 4 replies
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Hey guys. About two weeks ago I did the timing chain on my 280z. I'm not sure if this has anything to do with the problem but, since then I've had two times where I have lost power in the Z. The last time was this past afternoon. I just left Nissan and got on the road. Upon start up the car drove fine for a bit but then for about five or six seconds I lost power of the motor at 2.5k. No matter what I did I could not regain power. The engine then regained power as if nothing happened. It did this once before. On that occasion I started the car in the morning I was about halfway down the car refused to go beyond 3k on the tach. When I floored it, it sputtered and acted …
Last reply by WingZr0, -
- 5 replies
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This isn't really a emergency however the sooner a response the better. So moving along I have a decently built L26 motor with triple carbs and a holley fuel pump feeding it. One of the factory lines the one running from the front of the tank just next to the sending unit to the center fuel line leading to the motor. the hard line diameter is about 3/8", would it be a bad idea to run a 3/8" line with this setup or should I run something big in diameter, I don't want to starve the motor of any fuel that it will need. The line on the car now is bigger than 3/8". Thanks for any suggestions and help.
Last reply by OniZ, -
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I am currently re-doing my whole clutch system and I need to get a new clutch line. I plan on bending a flaring it myself but I don't know where to get the line it self. If anyone knows of a place near Rancho Cordova (outside Sacramento) that carries them I would appreciate the help. Thanks
Last reply by jsl5150, -
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Can someone post detailed pictures of the MSA seat belts installed in a similar fashion for what I need to do in my '73? The directions are unclear as to what bolts go where, where and how to use the nylon spacer, the orientation of the "L bracket".... and I am not liking what I am finding as I try to figure out the proper orientation for the shoulder mount point - what appears to be the proper orientation (judging from the pictures on the MSA web site) results in the belt being slightly twisted and not pulling out and retracting easily. Right now its Sunday night, and I want to decide in the next 24 hours if I'm sending these things back or not... Thanks!
Last reply by BadDog, -
- 1 reply
- 937 views
My brother just informed me of 2 Chevy 5.3 motors complete with EVERYTHING from gas pedal to radiator, tranny, etc, with 60,000 miles on them. Cars were used in movie productions and after the movie were removed from Suburbans. $1000 each. What do you guys think? I've had several v8 cars and was very impressed. I hear these motors are 320 HP stock with alot of room for improvement just by tuning. Would this be an option instead of worrying about my tripple weber tuning issue? Can do the conversion myself. I'm just contemplating the cost of tuning the webers(and finding someone capable of doing it), possibly selling the webers for several hundred dollars to offset the $100…
Last reply by back-to-zcars, -
- 0 replies
- 826 views
Hello to all, I have a 1975 280z that has issues shutting down for no reason between 2-8 min time. Let me start by saying that i had an issue with my fuel gauge fuse blowing as soon as i turned on the ignition, I traced it back to the voltage regulator contacts being fused together going right to ground. Bought a new regulator and the fuse holds. Then i starting having the problem of the car shutting off at different times only with the fuse installed. Traced that problem to the water temp relay. Sensor and relay seems fine when tested. I believe the problem might be in the ignition module which is connected to the water relay via white wire. when the fuse is in, it sends…
Last reply by meats75z, -
- 1 reply
- 759 views
Ok, today I removed the Capacitive Discharge system I install 37 years ago. (1972 240Z) Re-established the stock wiring on the coil etc. Car started ok! yea. BUT The tach doesn't work well. It works to about 3,000rpm, but jumps around above that. Also, when throttle is closed the tach drops to zero immediately and bounces up and down before settling down. The CD system had a wire coil behind the tach that replaced the stock wire, that of course was removed. When removing the CD system I reinstalled the white wire loop back on the tach. So what do you think is the problem?
Last reply by EScanlon, -
- 30 replies
- 10.5k views
Hi everyone! Well I did my little circuit tests tonight from my ECU's 35-pin harness connector and made a table on my clipboard to record the results. A few things on it look good but unfortunately a few also look very bad. I was hoping a few of the wizardly Z people around here could offer some sage wisdom about my results, from your experience, or whatever you'd like to say that's most likely stuff I don't know! I ran all the tests that overlapped with the symptoms I've experienced with my car recently, namely loss of power, backfiring and/or afterburning. Tests were run at approximately 50 degrees F. I don't know how to do a table in HTML off the top of my head…
Last reply by Jennys280Z,
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