Fuel Injection
Posts about fuel injection systems and related topics.
748 topics in this forum
-
- 3 followers
- 20 replies
- 1.4k views
Greeting, took the 280z 1977 for the smog test and everything passed except the fuel evaporative controls functional. The technician say something about pumping nitrogen into the gas tank and take measure for 2 minutes… he said there must be a leak somewhere that didn’t hold pressure. I don’t smell any gas btw. Is this problem relate to the canister or so I need to replace all fuel lines? much appreciated
Last reply by 240zadmire, -
-
- 3 followers
- 22 replies
- 1.5k views
Continuing along my Fuel Injection journey, I had a problem with my cold idle being so low the engine would stall out. So after reading my FSM, and help from here, I deducted it was the Air Regulator Valve, I was able to find one and that did indeed, raise the cold idle engine speed, but now the 1500 cold idle rpms stay high and only after 20 minutes running does it drop to 1000 rpm's and even then I have to stop and raise the hood to get to the idle screw and lower the idle speed down to 800 rpm's. Now I don't see what else would keep the speed at high idle other than perhaps the coolant temperature sender being bad, I am pretty sure I don't have any vacuum leaks, but th…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 3 followers
- 8 replies
- 1.4k views
Seems like every time I go looking for something, it hasn't been manufactured in eons, I was able to sort out a part# A22-602-421, but I'm only finding used, and my luck with used electrical parts has been too great ! Anyone know what this little Nissan orphan might be living ?
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
- 1 follower
- 2 replies
- 799 views
I lost the box that my GM HEI module was in, and I forgot to make a record of what I had. My docs say to use a Wells model #DR100 4-pin GM HEI module. Would someone please give some examples of which vehicles had the generic DR100 module? Those kids in the AP stores only know "Make, Model, and Year" to put into a computer. You can't even get a quart of 15W-30 oil for a lawn mower... ThxZ
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
- 2 followers
- 5 replies
- 832 views
I have spent the last hour looking for a fuel pump to replace mu old pump dropped dead on me today. The FSM states it needs 36PSI, but I'm getting a little confused with some posts. I have the Bosch EFI and a lot of posts refer to Carbureted cars, what is a good quiet fuel pump for a 75 EFI setup ? and I keep looking and damn few marketed pumps state the fuel pressure of their pumps, I need 36PSI , right ? And most I look at seem to be in-tank pumps without and mounting hardware ?
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 5 followers
- 36 replies
- 2.1k views
I think I have narrowed down my faulty cold idle problem with your help and the FSM to a erroneous Air Regulator Valve, but finding a replacement is proving much the task. Every where I look I'm met with "No longer available". . . "Part Discontinued" . . . "Used, Maybe good, Maybe no good". So I thought that perhaps these air regulator valves might be rebuildable ? If so, does anyone know about this, or have you gotten one rebuilt ? If so, by whom and how, and where ? This Nissan #22660-N4210 is an elusive part to find, any help is apricated. 🤥
Last reply by Killain, -
- 3 replies
- 705 views
I have a 75 and the fuel pump runs in the on position I know that is wrong so I started sleuthing. I opened my AFM and I noticed that even when the flap is fully closed the points circled are always making contact. I have read that’s the fuel shutoff switch so it makes sense to me if there was some gap when the flap is fully closed right? If so should I just bend the thicker wire more straight to get some separation?
Last reply by AZDatsun, -
- 2 replies
- 711 views
I am experiencing fuel pressure leak down in the rate of 36 psi to 0 in less than 10 seconds. I have an aftermarket fuel pump so I put in a check valve right after the pump and now if I clamp the return line the pressure will not bleed down so the check valve is working. As soon as I unclamp the return line the pressure drops to 0. My pressure gauge is right after the front fuel filter before the rail starts. I also disconnected my fuel rail and the injectors are not leaking. I also replaced my FPR and there are no leaks from that. Any ideas why this is happening ?
Last reply by AZDatsun, -
- 10 followers
- 103 replies
- 4.9k views
Hey guys, back again to solve another mystery on my 1977 280z California spec coupe. So in short my number 1 cylinder doesn't fire (I have no idea how long it has been like this). Or if it does it is extremely weak. Anyways, the reason I know this is that when I pull the spark plug wire the engine idle does not change noticeably. Also the idle is slightly rough and will surge if I have it anywhere lower than 1000rpm, as well as the car doesn't like full throttle under load. I have also disconnected the fuel injector and that made no change at idle. Disconnected any other cylinder causes the idle to drop very noticeably. So, here are the tests I have ru…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 5 followers
- 50 replies
- 3.9k views
Hi Friends, Clean gas tank, new bench tested injectors, all new injector connectors, also changed connectors to themo time, temp sensor, cold start valve is new and so is the harness connector. The car runs well after it warms up in 1-2 mins of idle. Cold start is giving me issues, the engine sputter and try to die. If you pump the gas it is uneven, sometimes it suddenly jumps to very high rpm, i mean u really have to keep pumping the paddle to get it running. We are thinking AFM? TPS? or anything else? any experiences you can share?
Last reply by MH77280Z, -
- 1 follower
- 1 reply
- 1.3k views
Hi, I was bench testing an AFM. I get around 225ohm between 6 & 8 and 125ohm between 8 & 9. Has anyone seen this? does it mean it is too much and it requires cleaning and re-calibration? https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/index.html Measure the resistance from the high side to the low side of the pot/copper trace. (Pins 8 and 6). It should read ~180ohm Measure the resistance across the "standard"/"Reference"/"Control" resistor. (Pins 8 and 9). It should read 100ohms
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 5 followers
- 12 replies
- 3.5k views
The L28 plastic OE joints look like they might dry out and crack one day, so could you replace them with metal ones? Also, can you get new swivels for the firewall ?
Last reply by zKars,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.