Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,555 topics in this forum
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- 7 replies
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Hey guys. Last night I did a basic run down on my engine. I do it every week to make sure that all the fluids are where they should be and there isn't anything interesting happening that I'm not aware of. Well I come to find that my air filter is rather filthy. I was thinking of switching over to a K&N filter (the one that goes in the stock box). I came across this earlier this morning. Anyone have any issue using the K&N filters? Any drawbacks to using them? Secondly. Can someone explain to me what a BCCD does? For what I remember from reading my FSM (which I can't find now) is that it helps keep idle up when you release the accelerator. Is this true? My Z's id…
Last reply by ozconnection, -
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I got a free 81 280ZX, body was wasted and 1 or 2 gear is bad. Is the lower gearing the same on the 4 speed. I would like to have a 5 speed in my 240. My curent 4 speed is in good shape. Would I be able to put the lower gears from my 4 speed into the 5 speed?
Last reply by sblake01, -
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Has anyone installed an electric fan in conjunction with the stock fan shroud? If so, what size fan did you use and how well has it worked?
Last reply by twsutt, -
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I recently replaced the radiator and added an overflow bottle in my '75 280z. After refilling the system with coolant, I took her for a test run to check for any leaks. The temp gauge was reading good - about 5/8ths...then the gauge dropped to the bottom of its range. I checked the connection on the temp sender and topped off the coolant and took her for another spin. Again the gauge was reading good then stopped working again. I let the system cool again and took off the radiator cap to add more coolant, but the coolant was at the top of the radiator. Would an air bubble in the thermostat housing cause the temp gauge to not register?
Last reply by twsutt, -
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My car has developed a slipping clutch under WOT in 3rd and 4th gear. I have a non-adjustable slave cylinder and the clutch seems to have the proper amount of free play so I dont think that is causing the problem. If I drive it gently how likely am I to toast the flywheel? I would really like to delay changing it until this winter. Also, I can't find any stock style 240z replacement flywheels. Does anyone have any recomendations for one? Should I just spring for a 280 flywheel? Thanks
Last reply by doradox, -
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I have a '76 280z. It starts up and runs, but I've been having a problem I can't narrow down. Wen the car is running and I press the accelerator, it lags for just a quick second. By lag, I mean, when the gas pedal is pressed, the engine looses a little power and slows down, than resumes as normal. The RPMs go down a little, and you can hear it in the way the engine runs, and feel it. This takes place in about 1-2 seconds. Also, at the same time, but randomly, there is a sort of a low popping sound. But it isn't very loud, it doesn't sound like backfiring. Bad gasket somewhere? This is what I've done to try and diagnose the problem: Oil change (Castrol 10W-30) new oil/air/…
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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Long story. I'm giving my 240Z to my brother who lives in Europe. It has high miles, but runs great. I'm a tech by trade, but not an engine assembler or machinist. I want somebody who has a passion for these engines to rebuild the engine in my car. I'm capable of pulling and installing it. Could do the assembly too, but am time limited. Is there anybody who really cares near me? I am on the coast near Eureka, but Redding/Brookings/Santa Rosa is not out of the question. Thanks Devin
Last reply by 72240Z, -
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does a clsd need to sense torque in order to engage? Was junkyard strolling and found a 85 turbo 300. I jack up the rear and the diff spun as if it was open. I thought the turbo's came with a CLSD?
Last reply by John Coffey, -
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Picked-up my rebuilt 77' 5-speed transmission from the shop today. Looks like they did a nice job. They replaced the seals, bearings & syncros. The gears all looked good, and spacing of components between gears, etc, was all within spec. I put together a rpm vs. gearing comparison spreadsheet. (attached). I'll install the 5-speed after the rainy season starts and see how it drives. I don't think I'll need to change-out the rear end, but can do that later, if required. RPM Chart.xls
Last reply by Rick Q., -
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Hey all, I tried searching a bunch before starting this thread but I still don't quite have answers that I need. I have two engines: Block-l28,N42 Head-N42 (in the car now with SUs) Block-l24 Head-N42 I have to double check the block casting number on the l24 engine but it was out of a 1971 240z. The l28 in it now is showing signs of well... Being a 35 year old engine. I want to rebuild one of these engines but which one? I don't want to do anything that crazy as money is an issue. I read that using some of the parts from the l24 and into the l28 is an idea?? Also, is the N42 a good head? Should I try to look for an E31, P79, etc? Anyone know of an engine shop that ha…
Last reply by 1970Datsun240z, -
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Hi all, I could use your advice. I just measured my temperature sensor resistance, and it's rather high. Moreover someone apparently "fixed" a fuel/air ratio problem by wiring a resistor in series with the sensor, so that the computer will only see the engine warming up to maybe 120F. Anyway, I presume I should straighten out the wiring and replace the sensor. Fuel/air ratio adjustments can be made at the AFM later. So I'm wondering first how this thing can be removed. Is it possible to slip a deep socket over it, or must it be turned with an open-end wrench? If the latter, do I remove the distributor to get enough working room? Or do I have to remove the thermosta…
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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It has been a long year mystery for me... For building a 3.1 or 3.2 stroker, is it better using the F54 block or N42? Almost every article I read in English says, the F54 is the best choice when building the stroker." But, what I hear in Japan (yes, my native language.) is totally the opposite. They say, "If you're going to bore 89mm or more, then the N42 is your best bet, especially if you were building it for drag racing. The largest bore you can go safely with the F54 is 88mm." That seems to be the common understanding among the L engine tuners in Japan. More interesting to note, they say that some early production of the N42 up to the certain lot number came with t…
Last reply by Tak510,
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