Suspension & Steering
Post your questions and answers about these major components of the Zcar and anything related.
2,201 topics in this forum
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- 1 reply
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Tried this question within a previously opened thread, but it faded to depth's w/o reponses so trying a fresh thread. Been looking through various threads concerning the lock nut on the tie rod. I want to get a replacement left hand thread nut for the drivers side. The one that was on there got chewed up a bit trying to get it lose (It will still work, just want to put a good one on). I ordered one from Black Dragon, but the nut is thicker than the stock nut and larger in diameter. I have checked all the nut and bolt places here in Albuquerque, but no left hand, fine thread metric nuts. Does any one know where I can get a nut that is the same as the original? Also, on t…
Last reply by Nissanman, -
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- 5 replies
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I replaced my old strut inserts (some brand made in Venezuela) and springs (original springs) with Tokico HP strut inserts and their matching red progressive springs. Anyway, I took my car out for a test drive, and now I hear an occasional soft clunk/pop in the front end someplace. I hear it (and feel it through the car) mainly when I'm making a turn (especially right hand turns). What could the causes be? -Could I have damaged a ball joint disconnecting it? That sucker was hard to get off in each case, and required a lot of brute force to make it pop free from the steering knuckle on the strut. Also, both sides had no dust boots, as shown in the FSM. -Maybe my sway bar e…
Last reply by Inf, -
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Folks may remember that I crashed my '72 last fall and bent the left front frame rail (see photos). Over the winter, we replaced that frame rail with a new one from Zedd Findings. There was a bunch of other work done too: new paint, exhaust upgrade, refurbish the entire suspension (with camber bushings in the front), etc. The car was on the road for the first time this year yesterday and that was to head to the alignment bay at NTB. Fortunately, the technician who did the work is a local SCCA autocrosser (Honda Civic Si) so we hit it off quite well, he took his time and involved me in making decisions. Once he did the best he could, we ran across a problem in the cas…
Last reply by Seppi72, -
- 15 replies
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Just purchased a NOS set of Mulholland rear strut cartridges. Went with these because I was hoping to maintain stock ride height without cutting the coil springs. However, the gland nut used with the stock struts will not work with the Mulhollands as the gland nut is too thick. I am now of the opinion that the gland nut is specific to the cartridge and the NOS Mulhollands did not come with gland nuts. I know it's a long shot, but does anyone out there know where I might find the gland nut I need? The new cartridges are P/N 2351502. Thanks in advance.
Last reply by tstewart, -
- 25 replies
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I just bought a '73 240Z with tokico shocks and eibach springs but whenever I get onto the freeway and exceed about 60 mph, the ride gets reaaaally wobbly and twitchy. Is there anything besides worn out bushings that could cause this?
Last reply by rdefabri, -
I made a blunder in that I didn't record which bolt goes where on the rear diff hangers. I now have all the bolts back from replating I'm looking to install the rear diff mount back in soon. But I really do need to be sure that the right bolt goes back in the right hole. It's a "I may as well as I've gotten this far" type of thing. So can someone crawl under a car and let me know what number is stamped on the bolts that secure the hanger to the body. Also is there a flat and spring washer. Also ID the bolts that secure the inner A frame axles. Front and rear end please. It's been a while. Cheers James ps, hope whoever's image I used is OK with me using it.
Last reply by =Enigma=, -
Very Stiff Ride 1 2
by Shakey- 16 replies
- 3.5k views
I have a '72 with a very rough ride. It just does not make for a very pleasent drive, especially for the wife, when the car seems to take every bump as a major parking lot speed bump. All bushings had been replaced with a Susp. Tech. urethane kit and Tokico springs/shocks/struts within the last few years. Tires are Goodrich 14" T/A's. What first could be done (or at least looked at) to try and soften the stiff ride?
Last reply by gnosez, -
- 3 replies
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I have been researching OEM shock inserts and have identified the following part numbers: 56105 E4125 normal resistance shock front 56105 E4185 firm resistance shock front 56205 E4125 normal resistance shock rear 56205 E4185 firm resistance shock rear Does anyone know what causes the shock to be either "normal" or "firm"? Is it the viscosity of the oil in the shock? Is the the internal valving of the shock? Also, which shock was installed during original manufacture of the 1970 model year? Thanks, Keith
Last reply by Mr Camouflage, -
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I'm going to try a factory 76 bar on my 73. Since I have lowered the car 1 1/4" shouldn't I use a shorter end link in order to keep the geometry correct?
Last reply by 240ZGL, -
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I am taking my complete suspension off to clean up and repaint the bits and pieces prior to putting the car back on the road now that all the crash damage from last fall is fixed. My '72 has Illumina shocks and Eibach springs. On the front springs (15.25" uncompressed length) there is a slightly tighter "wind" at one end and, I believe, that will be the case for the rears too when I get them off. My question is, when I reinstall them, which end should go up? Because the springs will be loaded the same regardless of which end is up, I think it shouldn't make any difference to the ride. But it will certainly look different depending on how I reistall them. At the moment…
Last reply by five&dime, -
- 7 replies
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I am in the process of installing G-Machine camber bushings (purchased from MSA) in my '72 - replacing the urethane ones that have been in for almost 5 years - and have a question. How does one actually adjust the rear camber with these things, especially with the flimsy "tool" that MSA sells for this purpose? The rear bushings are located at the pivot points for the rear A-arms and are aluminum cylinders with thin, hexagonal end plates and offset holes for the A-arm tube. The tube ends are isolated from the aluminum with polyacetal (Delrin) bushings that are inserted from either end of each assembly. Now, the aluminum part is what is supposed to be turned using the s…
Last reply by gnosez, -
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i replaced the bushing on the rack and pinion is there suppose to be a gap or are the brakects suppose to be snug
Last reply by 280~Master,
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